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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, about a week ago I started getting a 'clunk' noise from the rear driver side of my 2015 pilot any time I'd go over a bump.
I replaced the shocks last Summer, so not thinking it is that. I did remove the wheel and everything seems tight, though I don't really have the know how to check everything else in there.
So just to see if I could somehow narrow it down, I opened the rear hatch and kind of bounced up and down on the back corner, and I noticed a noise from the hatch itself.
The black 'support' arm......-not- the hydraulic arm that is on both sides of the door, but just the solid metal arm that is only on the driver side of the hatch, felt loose, had side to side play in it, and seemed to make a noise when I bounced the car.
Could that be the culprit? Or is it normal for it to have play in it? It looks like it would be hard to tighten as not much room to reach into the area it enters into the car..
I -hate- the idea of bringing my car into the dealership for a random noise, cause I know I will be leaving $500+ poorer.......
Thanks!
 

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That link connects the hatch to the power actuator for the pushbutton lift and close function. It normally bears no weight/load except when operating.

Recommend that you remove all the things/stuff/junk in the cubby on the left side. Take everything out of the storage bin under the rear deck. Verify that all three third-row seat belts are stowed correctly. Take everything out of the rear of the car. Make sure the tool kit and jack are secured correctly. Look at the second row belts and verify that the belts are hanging straight with buckles facing inward, away from the plastic side panels. Verify that the spare wheel is inflated correctly and winched up tight; cold weather drops the tire pressure. 90% of funny noises, squeaks and rattles I find are coming from stuff placed or left in the car.

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I once eliminated a tremendous amount of random cabin noise by changing girlfriends. :D [clunk]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That link connects the hatch to the power actuator for the pushbutton lift and close function. It normally bears no weight/load except when operating.

Recommend that you remove all the things/stuff/junk in the cubby on the left side. Take everything out of the storage bin under the rear deck. Verify that all three third-row seat belts are stowed correctly. Take everything out of the rear of the car. Make sure the tool kit and jack are secured correctly. Look at the second row belts and verify that the belts are hanging straight with buckles facing inward, away from the plastic side panels. Verify that the spare wheel is inflated correctly and winched up tight; cold weather drops the tire pressure. 90% of funny noises, squeaks and rattles I find are coming from stuff placed or left in the car.

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I once eliminated a tremendous amount of random cabin noise by changing girlfriends. :D [clunk]
Thanks Bob, I did all that for sure, noise is still there, and really I think it sounds like it is coming from the wheel area. Sigh, might have to bite the bullet and take it in.
 

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It is most likely your front stabilizer links that need to be replaced. Had the same issue with our 2011 and I swore it was coming from the back of the vehicle. Replaced the rear shocks like you did and the noise was still there. Once I replaced the front links , the problem was fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is most likely your front stabilizer links that need to be replaced. Had the same issue with our 2011 and I swore it was coming from the back of the vehicle. Replaced the rear shocks like you did and the noise was still there. Once I replaced the front links , the problem was fixed.
Taking it to dealership tomorrow...
You could be right.....but when I'm driving, if I specifically aim the driver side wheels to go over a man hole cover in the road, front wheel goes over it smooth, rear wheel hits it and 'clunk'....
 

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You can isolate the stabilizer links from the the selection set by TEMPORARILY removing one of the two at whichever end of the car you suspect. If you suspect the mounts for the anti-roll bar, you'll want to remove both links and secure the ends of the bar up out of the way. Of course some visual inspection for bent/damaged pieces is always a Good Idea.

Driving the Pilot with one or both of the anti-roll bars 'disabled' will be an eye opener. Use appropriate caution!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So I'm at the dealership now and they have driven it and said no question they feel it. Said they checked everything over, sway bars, etc etc and they couldn't find anything wrong. THey know I replaced the shocks in August, but they said they think that is about the only thing left, so think they are going to put a new one on and see what happens. The shocks I put on there are Bilsteins, so would be surprised at one failing after 5 months, but who knows... I'll post again later...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
OK, tech just came back out. They had two mechanics underneath it bouncing it up and down, ends up it was the sway arm bushing or something like that. It was all tight but had play in it allowing some rod to move in it and hit. So that is a really cheap fix for the new bushing and my new shock are fine. On the downside, for my MVI which I asked them to do since I was due in Feb, they say a 'trailing arm' needs to be replaced as the bushing or whatever in there has come apart. Always something... lol Anyway, will be happy if its all fixed, its a 2015 with about 175k km's (lots of road trips), I love it and plan to keep it a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Glad it got resolved!
Thanks. Funny story, sitting at the dealership yesterday waiting for them to finish, power went out, big wind/snow storm. So all the client's cars were stuck on the lifts, etc. They gave us all loaner cars to take home, and will pick up the pilot on Monday, see if they actually fixed it right. :)
 
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