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Discussion Starter #21
I had been putting this off, dreading what the dealership might tell me. Happily, the Crankshaft relearn procedure cleared everything up. I'm one happy camper right now!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Well that happiness was short-lived...picked it up this morning and not even 5 miles down the road all the lights came back on. Turned right around and took it back. No service guys intoday, so we will see what Monday brings...
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Well...the mechanic "thinks" replacing the camshaft position sensor should fix it. $515. I'm skeptical but out of options really.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Camshaft sensor replaced, but on the test drive with the scanner hooked up the mechanic reports low voltage at low RPM's. They tested the alternator and it tests out ok, which it should since it's only got maybe 150 miles on it. Belt is good. If I had hair I would be pulling it out right now.
 

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Does your mechanic have a code reader that reports Honda specific codes? If not perhaps it’s time to try a shop which specializes in Hondas/Acuras.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
It is at Bobby Rahal Honda in State College PA. I was stumped with it, and my regular go-to garage was stumped with it...now they (Honda garage) have had it for a week and they aren't setting the world on fire with a repair either...
 

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Well if it’s at the dealer they definitely have a Honda specific reader. Hopefully they don’t take the dartboard approach to figuring out what the problem is.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Picked it up Thursday night, 40 miles or so of driving and the CEL is on, but no VSA or VTM-4 lights this time and it seems to run normally. They are going to pull the codes again tomorrow and see what's up.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
So I picked it up from the dealer yesterday. P0420 code is back and of course they say that the converter and both oxygen sensors need to be replaced to the tune of $1920. One thousand, nine hundred, twenty dollars! I wish I had access to drugs as good as theirs...
 

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Ok I'll apologize in advance for the length of this post, but I think I need to get the whole story out there. Anyway, 2008 Pilot EX AWD, 115 k miles. About 2 years ago, battery light was coming on, battery tested good, so I put an alternator in it and it worked like a champ. As I drew closer to 100k miles, I started thinking about doing the timing belt myself, but ultimately I decided against that and I took it to the local garage that has done the inspections, tires, etc for me for years on this and everything else I have. I had the timing belt done, along with the water pump and thermostat. Picked the car up and it worked beautifully; started quickly and ran smoothly. I only live about 2 miles from this shop, so I drove it home and parked it. Went out about an hour later, it cranked 3-4 seconds before it started and the VSA, VTM-4, CEL, and triangle with the ! light were all on (looked like a Christmas tree, all the lights...lol). I took it right back to the garage; I thought (in my naivety) maybe the timing had jumped a tooth. They checked it out and told me that they must have cracked the crankshaft position sensor somehow and they ordered me a new one and installed it for free. Now I figured it was good. I thougth it took just a little more cranking to get it to start than it used to, but with the new sensor I didn't know if that was normal or not. I was good for about a week. The CEL came back on, and other than the incident before, this thing never came on. Anyway, I needed to drive to Philadelphia that weekend (about 3 1/2 hours) to move the kid into his dorm at Temple, so I stopped in at the same garage and asked them just to pull the code. It was P0420 code that mysteriously appears from time to time I'm told, so off I go. It ran well for that trip and for the next YEAR, all with the CEL on steady. That brings me up to the current issue I'm having. About a week before Christmas, my Temple Student (home for the break) wanted to go to his friend's house at the other end of town (a mile maybe) and he was parked in. My Pilot was in the way and I told him just to take it. He calls me a midnight; car wont start, battery is dead. Huh. well, the battery was 6 years old and it was about 15 degrees outside, so I take the wife's CRV up and hook up the jumper cables. It started right up and we went home. I get up the next morning, figuring I need a new battery. Just for kicks, I reached in and hit the key in the Pilot; started right up. I found this to be odd considering it was only driven a mile home and it sat outside all night. So I figured Zach must have left the lights on or something like that and didn't want to tell me so I smiled at my good fortune and didn't think much more about it. Business as usual the next few days, then one afternoon as I go wheeling into the driveway, all those same lights came back on. WTF. Anyway, I go out and start it after about 30 minutes; all of the lights (except CEL) are out. Drive it a few more times with them all out, then they pop on again. When they are all on, I can't rev the engine past 3K RPM; when they're off, it revs just fine. Did a little internet research and narrowed it down to a weak battery or alternator issue. I tested them both and they both checked out as good (12.4 V load test on the battery, 14.3 when the car was running). Due to the age of the battery and the fact that it had been killed about 2 weeks prior, I went ahead and replaced it. I started it up after installing the new battery and ALL the lights were off, even the CEL. Awesome. I had some errands to run so I took off and put about 30 miles on with no lights and no issues. About 5 miles from home, boom...they all come back on. Even though my inner common sense voice was telling me not to do it, I went ahead and replaced the alternator; no change. Now it seems as if the lights are on more than they are off, and sometimes I have to crank for 7-8 seconds in order to get it to start. I've read that it could be anything from the Computer begin fried to a bad ground wire. On the other hand, the fact that it is getting worse/more frequent leads to to wonder if that Crank sensor went bad again. I hate going to the garage to get stuff like that done, so I'm taking a chance that someone on here has one of those magic crystal balls with all the answers in it.
Sounds like when they initially changed the timing belt and broke the CEL sensor they also rotated the engine slightly off from the valves or simply put your timing if offset from the factory. That would account for the hard starting. The rest is the diagnostics. The diagnostics have hundreds of codes and on every start it checks only some. So initially the code may not come on depending on the codes priority level. Then the diagnostics finally gets to the next batch of codes and it if something is off the light goes back on. Changing the battery resets all the codes including the radio. I have to enter the 5 digit code for the radio to get it to work and reset the clock. You didn't mention the belt tensioner that must be changed with the water pump or belt change. I assume you did because the bearing of the high revolution bearing it would be screaming or you hear the belt slapping the cover if it was loose. There is one brand of tensioners that only last 2 months. The mechanic had to change mine to the other more reputable brand.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
The timing has been verified like 206 times now, between the initial garage that did the install, me, and the Honda garage. Hard starting went away with the new Camshaft position sensor. Timing belt/waterpump came as a kit with new tensioner and pulley included.
 
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