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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,
First time posting and new piloteer.
I am shopping around for a speaker only upgrade on my Pilot and need some advice. If I replace door speakers, should I replace tweeters and sub? If I absolutely need to change the sub, is there a swap replacement, or would any replacement require an amp? Also, would a speaker upgrade require a wiring upgrade?

Any recommendations on speaker upgrades would me most appreciated too!

Thanks to all in advance.

Rod.
 

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A few how to threads in the audio section
 

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I assume you got a '07 Pilot, which is same as I had before moving to a '13 model. I highly recommend Crutchfield as well cause not only can you search specifically for what fits your vehicle, but they will also carry the accessories you might need, such as mounting rings, harness adapters etc. They also include a real handy PDF showing how to properly disassemble your doors, etc in order to put the upgrades in.

To address your questions: Factory speakers are 4 Ohm/ 35W max, and sub is 2 Ohm/50W max. So for speakers, you are looking at anything with 4 Ohm impendance, and ratesd around 35W RMS. Far as tweeters go, IMHO the easiest option is to get 2-way door speakers which include tweeters. Many speakers have angled tweeters that can be rotated to point at the listener. Then, you can listen with factory tweeters still connected, then disconnect them and see if it sounds better that way.

As long as everything is powered from the head unit, existing wiring ought to be enough. Even if you upgrade the head unit to something with say, 50W per channel, you should be OK.

The sub... here is the thing about subs. Practically anyone upgrading a sub in their car wants something with more kick. You can easily put in any 10" shallow-mount sub that provides 2 Ohm impendance, but will your head unit built-in amp do it justice? Most likely not. Factory sub is a '50W max' thingie, whereas most aftermarket subs RMS ratings begin at 100W. An aftermarket sub might still sound 'cleaner' though. If you DO decide to upgrade the sub, I strongly recommend putting the extra work and getting an amp. First, it will give your sub the power it needs, and it will save you a headache later on if you do decide to upgrade the head unit. And if you are a new piloteer and already wanting to do new speakers, I about guarantee that you WILL want to upgrade the head unit soon enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I assume you got a '07 Pilot, which is same as I had before moving to a '13 model. I highly recommend Crutchfield as well cause not only can you search specifically for what fits your vehicle, but they will also carry the accessories you might need, such as mounting rings, harness adapters etc. They also include a real handy PDF showing how to properly disassemble your doors, etc in order to put the upgrades in.

To address your questions: Factory speakers are 4 Ohm/ 35W max, and sub is 2 Ohm/50W max. So for speakers, you are looking at anything with 4 Ohm impendance, and ratesd around 35W RMS. Far as tweeters go, IMHO the easiest option is to get 2-way door speakers which include tweeters. Many speakers have angled tweeters that can be rotated to point at the listener. Then, you can listen with factory tweeters still connected, then disconnect them and see if it sounds better that way.

As long as everything is powered from the head unit, existing wiring ought to be enough. Even if you upgrade the head unit to something with say, 50W per channel, you should be OK.

The sub... here is the thing about subs. Practically anyone upgrading a sub in their car wants something with more kick. You can easily put in any 10" shallow-mount sub that provides 2 Ohm impendance, but will your head unit built-in amp do it justice? Most likely not. Factory sub is a '50W max' thingie, whereas most aftermarket subs RMS ratings begin at 100W. An aftermarket sub might still sound 'cleaner' though. If you DO decide to upgrade the sub, I strongly recommend putting the extra work and getting an amp. First, it will give your sub the power it needs, and it will save you a headache later on if you do decide to upgrade the head unit. And if you are a new piloteer and already wanting to do new speakers, I about guarantee that you WILL want to upgrade the head unit soon enough.
Hey scorpio, thanks for all that info and insight. Never thought of it that way, as far as thinking ahead and having things set in place for when a new head unit goes in. So, I probably will look further for a complete upgrade. And Crutchfield makes sense for harnesses and simplicity.

So, the factory ones are 35 watt max, would it be wise to go higher rms for when the h/u time comes? Also, do h/u's come with built in amp for sub? Or am I installing an amp next to the sub?
 

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I assume you got a '07 Pilot, which is same as I had before moving to a '13 model. I highly recommend Crutchfield as well cause not only can you search specifically for what fits your vehicle, but they will also carry the accessories you might need, such as mounting rings, harness adapters etc. They also include a real handy PDF showing how to properly disassemble your doors, etc in order to put the upgrades in.

To address your questions: Factory speakers are 4 Ohm/ 35W max, and sub is 2 Ohm/50W max. So for speakers, you are looking at anything with 4 Ohm impendance, and ratesd around 35W RMS. Far as tweeters go, IMHO the easiest option is to get 2-way door speakers which include tweeters. Many speakers have angled tweeters that can be rotated to point at the listener. Then, you can listen with factory tweeters still connected, then disconnect them and see if it sounds better that way.

As long as everything is powered from the head unit, existing wiring ought to be enough. Even if you upgrade the head unit to something with say, 50W per channel, you should be OK.

The sub... here is the thing about subs. Practically anyone upgrading a sub in their car wants something with more kick. You can easily put in any 10" shallow-mount sub that provides 2 Ohm impendance, but will your head unit built-in amp do it justice? Most likely not. Factory sub is a '50W max' thingie, whereas most aftermarket subs RMS ratings begin at 100W. An aftermarket sub might still sound 'cleaner' though. If you DO decide to upgrade the sub, I strongly recommend putting the extra work and getting an amp. First, it will give your sub the power it needs, and it will save you a headache later on if you do decide to upgrade the head unit. And if you are a new piloteer and already wanting to do new speakers, I about guarantee that you WILL want to upgrade the head unit soon enough.
Nevermind, found the answer in another one of your posts, ??
 

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I installed Kicker 6.5 inch coaxial speakers in the doors from Crutchfield in both my 04 and 06 Pilot. Crutchfield provided the wiring adapter and installation directions at no charge. Nice improvement over stock Alpine speakers.
 

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You definitely can get higher powered speakers if you want headroom for future upgrades. I.e. 70W RMS speakers should still sound quite well powered from the factory head, but they will also cost a fair bit more.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I installed Kicker 6.5 inch coaxial speakers in the doors from Crutchfield in both my 04 and 06 Pilot. Crutchfield provided the wiring adapter and installation directions at no charge. Nice improvement over stock Alpine speakers.
Thanks
 

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You definitely can get higher powered speakers if you want headroom for future upgrades. I.e. 70W RMS speakers should still sound quite well powered from the factory head, but they will also cost a fair bit more.
I had something similar to those specs in mind

Thanks
 

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I installed Fosgate R1675-S Prime component set if my 2015 pilot in the front and they sound really good and was a night and day difference from the factory speakers which were dreadful in my opinion.
I realize you have a different generation pilot so install will probably not be the same and these may not even fit.

Crutchfield is a great resource and the first place i always check. Prices are higher, but they give you adapters and instructions which can be very helpful, but you may be able to find That for free online or maybe even youtube.

I highly recommend a component set of speakers in the front and just coaxial in the rear doors. Tweeters can be challenging to mount, but they sound way better and look to see if others have done it already.

If you dont add an amp-for the sub, i would not bother changing it.

i did not change my head unit becaus it is so integrated in the car. I would guess the older one is not and would probably be easier to change and I would reccomend it and just get one with a sub output and remote wire for the amp and it works out better, but is a bit of work.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I installed Fosgate R1675-S Prime component set if my 2015 pilot in the front and they sound really good and was a night and day difference from the factory speakers which were dreadful in my opinion.
I realize you have a different generation pilot so install will probably not be the same and these may not even fit.

Crutchfield is a great resource and the first place i always check. Prices are higher, but they give you adapters and instructions which can be very helpful, but you may be able to find That for free online or maybe even youtube.

I highly recommend a component set of speakers in the front and just coaxial in the rear doors. Tweeters can be challenging to mount, but they sound way better and look to see if others have done it already.

If you dont add an amp-for the sub, i would not bother changing it.

i did not change my head unit becaus it is so integrated in the car. I would guess the older one is not and would probably be easier to change and I would reccomend it and just get one with a sub output and remote wire for the amp and it works out better, but is a bit of work.
Thanks for the feedback, especially on the rear door being coaxial. I think integrated is the best word to describe all that is going on with the controls from the head unit. Mine has the satellite radio function that I dont use, and the GPS, so it has some integration, and if I change it out, I will be looking to have something similar, so I have some researching to do.
 

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I had '07 Pilot EX prior to going to a 2013 model. The head on the '07 is not "integrated" at all. You can just take it out and swap in any double-DIN aftermarket head instead. If you got a Navigation model, you swap in the new head where Nav is (top of dash), and replace the audio unit below with something like a double-DIN storage pocket. You might have to extend the wiring harness a bit to get the connection from factory audio unit location to new head. If your car is already equipped with an XM tuner, chances are you can hook it to your new head. And with Android Auto/Apple CarPlay support, built-in navigation becomes very much a dinosaur.
The '12-15 models are a lot more integrated, can't really take out the factory audio without losing the climate controls.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I had '07 Pilot EX prior to going to a 2013 model. The head on the '07 is not "integrated" at all. You can just take it out and swap in any double-DIN aftermarket head instead. If you got a Navigation model, you swap in the new head where Nav is (top of dash), and replace the audio unit below with something like a double-DIN storage pocket. You might have to extend the wiring harness a bit to get the connection from factory audio unit location to new head. If your car is already equipped with an XM tuner, chances are you can hook it to your new head. And with Android Auto/Apple CarPlay support, built-in navigation becomes very much a dinosaur.
The '12-15 models are a lot more integrated, can't really take out the factory audio without losing the climate controls.
That's good to know, I feel more comfortable switching it out then, which from the feedback, seems the best thing to do in order get the best result. I can definitely use more storage, or even if I add some other controls for lights, gives me options.

Thanks.
 
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