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'08 Pilot
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks,

Recently went over some really rough roads and since then the passenger rear has been making a slight knocking sound. The sound is noticeable when going over small cracks in pavement at slower speeds, bumps in road, but coasting at higher speeds on smooth road you don't hear it. Maybe sway bar link, not sure...

How would I diagnose and tell if the sway bar link are bad? Also, any advice on replacing this if in fact it is bad? I live in the northeast where there is lots of salt and rust, so this could be a pain in the butt to replace, not sure. I've never done anything mechanically with my car before...

Thanks
 

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Certainly sounds like swaybar bushing telltale symptoms. No way of eyeballing them, though, when they go out of round on the inside. Usually it's the front ones that go, so check carefully where the sound is coming from, and that's a relatively easy swap IF you've got the right tool for that one bolt on the driver's side, a 12 point 14mm half moon wrench. Note that the front and rear sway bar bushings are not the same parts.

Easy to replace front sway bar bushings?



Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design




The bushings themselves are quite inexpensive. It's the labor. The rear sway bar bushings are an absolute bear to get to, so the only thing I wish less upon you is that it's your rear subframe mount rusting out.
 

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'08 Pilot
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Shes a crusty one boys! Finally jacked up the passenger rear to see what the knocking/clunking may be and honestly I cant tell and theres just too much rust I'm not sure I even want to attempt to fix myself. Everything seems solid upon pulling, twisting, banging. Maybe sway bar links are solid because I only have 1 side jacked up so there is tension? Anyway I could not find the clunking... I might just have to resort to taking it to a mechanic who can hopefully correct the noise and replace the front bushing at the same time that I'm pretty sure is bad as it was the exact noise my '05 had.

Here are some pictures for your entertainment:

Looking from front side of wheel well in. Wet spot is because I hit a small puddle.
Tire Automotive tire Wheel Wood Motor vehicle


Don't see any big gap or anything when looking at bushing:
Bedrock Wood Gas Electric blue Geology


Bedrock Wood Gas Formation Stonemason's hammer


Rust porn:
Wood Trunk Automotive tire Metal Automotive wheel system


Tire Automotive tire Wheel Wood Motor vehicle


Rubber on links still seem to be fine. Barely moving when pulling:
Automotive tire Bicycle part Gas Bumper Sculpture


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Wood


Stonemason's hammer Automotive tire Wood Bedrock Gas


Stonemason's hammer Wood Bedrock Geologist's hammer Trowel


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Rim Wheel
 

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Trying to see your left rear subframe mount. Does it look anything like this?

Gas Wood Geology Cave Rock


If not, I'd think sway bar bushings. You can't eyeball if they're out of round on the inside, but the clunking at low speeds over uneven pavement (driveway entrances, potholes, etc.) sounds like that. I'd try the front ones first, simply because they're much, much easier to the rear, relatively, and more commonly the problem, unless you're really sure it's coming from the rear.
 

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'08 Pilot
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148 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Trying to see your left rear subframe mount. Does it look anything like this?

View attachment 165519

If not, I'd think sway bar bushings. You can't eyeball if they're out of round on the inside, but the clunking at low speeds over uneven pavement (driveway entrances, potholes, etc.) sounds like that. I'd try the front ones first, simply because they're much, much easier to the rear, relatively, and more commonly the problem, unless you're really sure it's coming from the rear.
Don't think so... Definitely a bit of holeage but nothing like your picture.

Automotive tire Gas Bedrock Automotive wheel system Metal


Automotive tire Wood Gas Bumper Metal
 

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2006 Pilot LX 4WD
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Wasn't sure if it was shocks on our 06 or not, saw a really new looking pair on an Odyssey (Same shocks) when going through a pull your own parts boneyard. Got the pair for IIRC $30.00. Put them on, and the thud noises were gone. At times it almost sounded like the exhaust had came loose , and was banging on something.
 

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Do I have a video for YOU! :) I also had noise like that, and it all came down to worn out bad sway bar links.

The originals were really in bad shape. I had to cut them out with grinder.

I replaced rear springs/ sway bar links. Rear of the car went up by an inch or two, and the noise is gone.

I had shocks replaced earlier, you might as well replace shocks and, while everything is taken apart, - check those other bushings. In my case other bushings were fine.
 

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Hi Folks,

Recently went over some really rough roads and since then the passenger rear has been making a slight knocking sound. The sound is noticeable when going over small cracks in pavement at slower speeds, bumps in road, but coasting at higher speeds on smooth road you don't hear it. Maybe sway bar link, not sure...

How would I diagnose and tell if the sway bar link are bad? Also, any advice on replacing this if in fact it is bad? I live in the northeast where there is lots of salt and rust, so this could be a pain in the butt to replace, not sure. I've never done anything mechanically with my car before...

Thanks

I experienced the same thing on my 08 had it diagnosed at a repair shop and it turned out to be a rear trailing arm. I usually have a shop look at it tell me what's wrong give me an estimate (as if I'd pay that amt) then take it home and fix it myself. They said no one sold just the bushing. They were wrong. Can't recall the price but it was small enough that I bought two. I recommend using a press to get the bushing out and putting the new one in makes the job much easier. If you don't have a service manual you should get one. The parking brake cable runs through this arm so there's that to deal with and if I remember correctly the orientation of the bushing is important needs to be put on in same position as the old one. Anyway put it on clunking was gone haven't had a problem since.

Good luck.
 

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FIFY

I experienced the same thing on my 08 had it diagnosed at a repair shop and it turned out to be a rear trailing arm. I usually have a shop look at it tell me what's wrong give me an estimate (as if I'd pay that amt) then take it home and fix it myself. They said no one sold just the bushing. They were wrong. Can't recall the price but it was small enough that I bought two. I recommend using a press to get the bushing out and putting the new one in makes the job much easier. If you don't have a service manual you should get one. The parking brake cable runs through this arm so there's that to deal with and if I remember correctly the orientation of the bushing is important needs to be put on in same position as the old one. Anyway put it on clunking was gone haven't had a problem since.

Good luck.
 

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22 Pilot SE, 20 GLE 350, 06 Civic EX
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Shocks, when they go bad, rattle and knock at low speed, even over tar filled road cracks at low speed. Is the knock coming from rear wheel wells? Those shocks look worn to me. You may need shocks and bushings.
 

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'08 Pilot
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I brought the Pilot into the mechanic today and received a call after. They gave me a run down of what was wrong...

The back two shocks need to be replaced - They think that is causing the noise but will replace and take for a ride after to know for certain.
The front sway bar links need to be replaced which is also causing the clunking in the front driver.
The front driver caliper is seized
The front passenger caliper is leaking

All of these parts would cost roughly 900 and labor an additional 500+. They also don't know if the noise will be gone afterwards... What the flip....

I told them go ahead...
 

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Yeah, that all sounds about right. Too bad you're going to get cheap parts that may not mesh well with Honda. Aftermarket parts that actually work good with Honda rare indeed. The brake fluid they are going to use I highly doubt is going to be Honda fluid. That is going to be an issue. Which means you're going to be in for more fixes.
I really for the sake of your checkbook, I hope you went to a certified Honda mechanic, that knows honda, and didn't just take it to the nearest mechanic. You are going to regret it. That is the only guarantee you are going to get from your "fixes".
It really worries me when someone tells me they took their Honda to a mechanic. Please put my mind at ease and tell me you went to honda mechanic. Please.
 

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2006 Pilot LX 4WD
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Please put my mind at ease and tell me you went to honda mechanic.
Hate to say it, but the ones at the dealers around here are not that good.
That or they're under orders to sell, sell, sell with the old "Not worth fixing buy a new car" routine.
I've had people come to me after having taken it to the dealer, for what were cheaper easy fixes and getting the above routine.
 

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Yeah, it's getting sad out there. I worked at a toyota dealership, and left over how they operate. It's pretty messed up. Another issue is the old mechanics are leaving and they are filling the positions with anyone that will take them. The classifieds where I live are full of mechanics wanted ads. No certifications required. You really are better off doing the work yourself, after doing the research.
 
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