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Discussion Starter #1
The remote for my 2006 Pilot finally bit the dust. Battery is still 3+ volts. Tried cleaning the contacts and still nothing. Found an uncut CWTWB1U545 replacement key/module on Amazon for ~$18. Is the fix going to be as simple as just moving the new module over to the old case and programming it, or am I overlooking something. Also, do replacement keys like this come with the chip in case I do decide to have it cut? Your expertise would be appreciated.
 

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You're going to have to get the new key cut. Call ahead to make sure the locksmith cuts Honda automotive keys. No need to go to the stealership.

Transferring the remote fob electronics is simple and self-evident, but don't forget as well to carefully dig out the little immobilizer chip and transfer it to the little space for it in the new key. I eventually helped it stay firmly in place by using a little of that usually blue sticky tack used for putting posters on walls, or get the locksmith to do it while he's in there anyway.

Might consider going with a flip key to reduce jabbing in your pocket. Here's the flip key I went with: https://www.ebay.com/itm/281441529815?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

In broken English, but helpful instructions:
 

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Eh... Just the remote quit, so why cut a new key?
The OP should be able to buy just the fob and transfer the keyless transmitter into the old body which still has the working immobilizer transponder. What am I missing?
 

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You're right, that's true. If the OP wants to keep the same physical key, yes, just swap in the fob module and program it.
 

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You are correct. I have already done this. If the key is fine but the remote stopped working, just buy a new key from Amazon, swap out the transmitter from the new key to the old one, and re-program the transmitter. There are lots of resources on how to do that. Just remember, you will need to reprogram all your remotes at the same time.
 

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Try this. http://www.piloteers.org/forums/2-general-discussions/73505-2006-exl-key-alarm.html#post763809


Have all remotes for the vehicle on hand. Make sure all the doors and rear hatch/trunk are closed during programming. Only need to use 1 remote to get into program mode but all remotes must be programmed during the same session. Each step must be completed within 5 seconds.

1. Sit in the car with all doors/trunk tightly closed

2. Turn the key to the ON position, marked by "II" on the ignition bezel so the dash lights come on, then within 5 seconds press the "Lock" button on the remote for 1 second or so and release the button.

3. Turn the key to the OFF position, marked by "I" on the ignition bezel - dash lights go off.

4. Repeat steps 2 & 3 three more times (A total of 4 times) -- each step must be done within 5 seconds of the previous step.

5. Upon the 4th turning of the key to "ON", press the lock button on one remote, the locks will make a cycling sound (clunk), locks will NOT lock or unlock at this point, they will just make a noise. The system is now in programming mode. Do not turn key off.

6. Within 5 seconds of entering programming mode and within 5 seconds of each other, press the lock button ON EACH remote you are programming, for a second or so and release. This step needs to be completed within 10 seconds. Each time a remote button is pushed, the locks should cycle. Up to 3 remotes can be programmed.

7. Turn ignition completely off and remove the key. Step out of car and close door. The remotes should be programmed and should work. If you have a trunk/hatch release, the button for this feature needs to be held for a few seconds before the trunk/hatch will "pop".
Here's a video that might also help.




Keep trying, it eventually does work, if your fobs are good. In the end, what finally worked for me when using the method that goes from II to 0 didn't work: Going from II to I is what did it for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Do these key replacements come with the chip in them? Is the chip associated with the keyless module, anti-theft system, or both? I know when we had a new key cut for our CRV the chip was moved over by the locksmith. Shouldn't be an issue with my current problem as I'm keeping the original key and just moving the module over, but I am curious how the chip works as I've been told numerous things.
 

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Most come with the remote fob inside, like for example this one. Just transfer the fob to your key, since you're keeping it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2006-2007-2008-Honda-Pilot-Keyless-Entry-Remote-Key-Fob-Clicker-CWTWB1U545/321806740487?fits=Year:2006|Model:pilot|Make:Honda&hash=item4aed2d2c07:g:mOIAAOSwLN5WjSlD

Some are shell only, without a fob, but it's usually pretty obvious by reading the description, looking at the picture and because of the price, like for example this one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Replacement-for-2005-2006-2007-2008-Honda-Pilot-Remote-Car-Key-Fob-Shell-Case/201654436721?fits=Year:2006|Model:pilot|Make:Honda&epid=697117508&hash=item2ef38a8371:g:5DQAAOSwXAxcWJ-t


Those claiming to have the ID46 immobilizer chip in it are rarer, though I'd double check before ordering. You'd need to get that programmed by the dealer anyway, in most cases.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-Button-Entry-Remote-Keyless-Key-Fob-Blade-w-ID46-Chip-For-Honda-Pilot-05-08/362652268858?fits=Year:2006|Model:Pilot|Make:Honda&epid=19023671689&hash=item546fc2793a:g:M5cAAOSwGjBc3mBh

If you switch to a new key, like I eventually did for a couple of flip keys, you dig out your original immobilizer chip and transfer it to your new key.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK! Got my new key fob from Amazon today. Took the new module out and inserted it into the old shell that was already cut. Unfortunately it was not as simple as just dropping it it. When it was inserted (with a little force) the buttons would bind up. After a lot of playing around with it I finally determined that the new module is just a tiny bit longer than the old module. This is because the top latch (that sits next to the key) on the battery cover actually protrudes out whereas the old module sits flush. The latch is not thick enough to trim and still have it work so I had to take my dremel and trim down the inside edge of the plastic shell next to the key. Once that was trimmed down the module dropped in and the buttons lined up perfectly. Programming it went very smoothly. Had to rotate the key back and forth between the I and II positions 4x,pressing the lock button each time I was in the II position. On the 4th press of the lock button you would hear the locks cycle. Then you press the lock button a 5th time (still in the II position) to complete the programming. I got my replacement key on Amazon from KeylessOption for $17.95 which was the cheapest I could find. You might want to try a different vendor to see if the one they send you is truly a drop and go.
 

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