Joined
·
72 Posts
Has anyone used kerosene as a engine flush and if so how did it do?
Kerosene as a engine flush?
1 - 20 of 53 Posts
You want half a tank to 1 gallon of lacquer thinner (paint thinner), try to get a quality one. Can be sourced from local hardware store. This is important to both the health of your engine, and yourself to follow these instructions exactly. You don't want to breathe in the chemicals that are going to be released. You are going to want to drive on a road that will allow you to drive non stop until you get to at least 1/8 to 1/16 a tank. This can be roughly 200 miles. Once you add the lacquer thinner to the tank, go straight to the freeway and drive. You want to do this on a warm engine to start. Your catalytic converter only works once you get to operating temperature, and you don't want deposits to form before it has a chance to burn through them. Once you are on the freeway and at operating temperature, do some spirited pulls. Mostly wanting to get in the high RPM range periodically. This will increase the air flow through the cats, and will also increase the temperature allowing the deposits to come loose easier. Once you get down to either the light coming on, or just shy of it, fill the tank up full. Go jump on the freeway and do a spirited pull or two and you're done.
IMPORTANT:
-1/2 tank to 1 gallon
-pour in at operating temperature
-don't stop driving until you are ready to fill up again
-don't fill up until you have reached at least 1/8 of a tank, preferably less, or closer to the light coming on
-do a couple spirited pulls to get the air flowing and temperature up
-find a quality lacquer thinner with preferably low VOC. (you and others are going to likely breath some of this in, best to keep it as clean as possible, especially for the people behind you)
-Make sure you fill the tank up full once done, and do not let it sit in the tank or the sysytem
-Go for 1-2 more spirited pulls to dilute any amount in the system still.
-get a flexible funnel to pour it in, or transfer it into a gallon fuel container to pour it in.
This process will clean your cat, and any deposits in your combustion chamber, and related parts.
IMPORTANT:
-1/2 tank to 1 gallon
-pour in at operating temperature
-don't stop driving until you are ready to fill up again
-don't fill up until you have reached at least 1/8 of a tank, preferably less, or closer to the light coming on
-do a couple spirited pulls to get the air flowing and temperature up
-find a quality lacquer thinner with preferably low VOC. (you and others are going to likely breath some of this in, best to keep it as clean as possible, especially for the people behind you)
-Make sure you fill the tank up full once done, and do not let it sit in the tank or the sysytem
-Go for 1-2 more spirited pulls to dilute any amount in the system still.
-get a flexible funnel to pour it in, or transfer it into a gallon fuel container to pour it in.
This process will clean your cat, and any deposits in your combustion chamber, and related parts.
Joined
·
10,628 Posts
Joined
·
916 Posts
oh I like the sound of dynamic. almost anything sold in the auto parts store could be used as a "flush"
there's probably at least a dozen specific products sold for this purpose, whether or not they actually do anything meaningful is another debate. what are you trying to solve or accomplish by "flushing" the engine?
there's probably at least a dozen specific products sold for this purpose, whether or not they actually do anything meaningful is another debate. what are you trying to solve or accomplish by "flushing" the engine?
I believe KenyHo1Gen is referring to an oil flush to remove built up sludge.
I myself use Cyclo Motor Flush with every oil change.
Since using it I can see a visable differance looking through the oil fill hole.
It must have helped, there is a noticable differance when the V-Tec kicks in.
About the same price as a quart of full synthetic oil.
The only place I've found it is at Bumper to Bumper.
Cyclo® Motor Flush, 15 fl oz
I myself use Cyclo Motor Flush with every oil change.
Since using it I can see a visable differance looking through the oil fill hole.
It must have helped, there is a noticable differance when the V-Tec kicks in.
About the same price as a quart of full synthetic oil.
The only place I've found it is at Bumper to Bumper.
Cyclo® Motor Flush, 15 fl oz
I’d be content with using a good quality full synthetic oil with a quality oil filter, making sure to change the oil on time or sooner and use top tier 87 octane gasoline. If the engine is running badly replace the parts needed to make it run right plus the possible need for a valve adjustment.
I don't like to flush engines. What makes you think yours needs to be? I see a lot of people who find the increased sludge on the PCV head of the J series and think their engine has a problem and needs to be flushed. This isn't the case.
Flushing is a very high risk, minimal gain investment compared to just using a high mileage synthetic oil and changing it regularly.
Flushing is a very high risk, minimal gain investment compared to just using a high mileage synthetic oil and changing it regularly.
Many many years ago it was popular with the crowd I hung out with to use a quart of transmission fluid as a flush. If I were wanting to clean up the inside of a dirty engine today I would do what Nail Grease suggested and use a full synthetic and a good filter on a short oil change interval (OCI). Do that a couple of times.
Joined
·
5,987 Posts
I also vote a quality oil with a quality filter. Unless you are having issues and this is a last ditch effort before you go more serious I stay away from products like this.
Before I used the Cyclo Motor Flush @260K+ miles the V-Tec was sluggish and would not kick in at times.
I had stuck my fingers in through the oil fill opening and could feel the thick buildup of sludge.
After the first flush there was a noticable difference in the V-Tec response.
I'm using Valvoline Advanced 5W20, with a Purolator One (10K) filter. I now change oil every other MM notification.
After 6K miles the oil is not as dark as the conventional oil was at 3K miles, but still goes black after the flush and checking through the oil fill opening shows an improvement. I can't complain it only uses about 1/2 quart in 6K miles.
BTW I was with the original owners this past weekend, and Chad told me they never had the TB/WP replaced, so it had 260K+ on the originals when I got it.
I don’t want to be negative on the subject of the use of engine flush products. I don’t doubt that they work. Having bought old vehicles with neglected engines, what I wrote above has brought them back to good health over time. I especially learned my lesson on avoiding fancy oils (extended performance) that claim you can go longer between oil changes. By my experience, these oils needed topping off between oil changes and possibly more susceptible to thermal breakdown. Old oil seems to go places it shouldn’t be. I am back to changing my oil every 5k diligently. My oil loss is barely measurable now. Regular Full Synthetic Pensoil (black lablel) and Quaker State (gold label) are my go to oils for their higher Noack ratings. I thank @xGS for this one.
What oil filter do you guys like?
Which vehicle is that for? Will use on Honda, Nissan, Hyundai
www.piloteers.org
This motor was sludged to the point that the drain back holes in the heads were all but plugged.I don’t want to be negative on the subject of the use of engine flush products. I don’t doubt that they work. Having bought old vehicles with neglected engines, what I wrote above has brought them back to good health over time. I especially learned my lesson on avoiding fancy oils (extended performance) that claim you can go longer between oil changes. By my experience, these oils needed topping off between oil changes and possibly more susceptible to thermal breakdown. Old oil seems to go places it shouldn’t be. I am back to changing my oil every 5k diligently. My oil loss is barely measurable now. Regular Full Synthetic Pensoil (black lablel) and Quaker State (gold label) are my go to oils for their higher Noack ratings. I thank @xGS for this one.
What oil filter do you guys like?
Which vehicle is that for? Will use on Honda, Nissan, Hyundai
I didn't do the flush the first oil change and it took awhile to be able to pour the new oil in because it kept backing up.
The Cyclo Motor Flush didn't break the sludge up in chunks like some other products do, it seems like it dissolves the buildup. The motors pretty clean now, I can actually see metal instead of gunk. I'm sure the full synthetic oil is also helping to clean the motor. Might be my imagination, but the motor seems quieter since I ran the flush.
BTW non VCM engine, I've seen a few of those with the rear head locked up.
Lol, I see now what you mean now. Mobil 1 claims it helps with sludge. If you are getting sludge you really need to replace the PCV valve, switch to a good synthetic oil, change oil every 6 months regardless of miles, and address seal leaks. That way it doesn't keep coming back.
I think I've finally got caught up to the sludge. The metal parts I can see now only show a light brown discoloration that you can see the metal through, as does the drain back hole that you can see through the oil fill opening. I couldn't even tell there was a drain back hole there before, so I'm pretty sure most of them were just as plugged. Oil now goes in as fast as I can pour it.
Joined
·
72 Posts
I was seeing a lot of sludge on the outside of the engine and I thought that would do the trick but it seems like most people are saying don’t do an engine flush because it’s a waste of money or it’ll create a bigger problem
Joined
·
72 Posts
Yeah I’m leaning more towards just doing a couple of regular oil changes and see if that will help. Thanks to you and everyone for their replies I definitely really really appreciate them! Ever since I installed a new thermostat it’s been idling up and down from around 1000 RPM to around 1500 RPM I’m thinking it’s where I had to remove the breather tube. What do you think the problem could be?I don’t want to be negative on the subject of the use of engine flush products. I don’t doubt that they work. Having bought old vehicles with neglected engines, what I wrote above has brought them back to good health over time. I especially learned my lesson on avoiding fancy oils (extended performance) that claim you can go longer between oil changes. By my experience, these oils needed topping off between oil changes and possibly more susceptible to thermal breakdown. Old oil seems to go places it shouldn’t be. I am back to changing my oil every 5k diligently. My oil loss is barely measurable now. Regular Full Synthetic Pensoil (black lablel) and Quaker State (gold label) are my go to oils for their higher Noack ratings. I thank @xGS for this one.
What oil filter do you guys like?
Which vehicle is that for? Will use on Honda, Nissan, Hyundai
Joined
·
72 Posts
Yeah definitely sounds good. If a couple of oil n filter changes doesn’t help I will definitely try that brand thanks so much for your reply
Did you wipe any dusty grime from around the throttle plate? If so, It may need a cleaning on the backside too and idle relearn procedure. A throttle gasket would be needed.
1 - 20 of 53 Posts
