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Discussion Starter #1
Finally I am done with the install......here's what I did:

-1x KN Universal air filter part RE 0950 : $35.69 @ AJ-USA phone 858-452-8900. No shipping charges! Great service, got it in 3 days.

Purchased from Home Depot:

-12"x 24" flashing $3.00

-1X 3/4" drill grinding point (Removal of ridge on inside of 3" hub) $2.50

- now wait for it ...3" PVC sewer & drain coupling 59 cents. Cut to fit around 3 1/2 inches.

You can use any coupler as long as the diameter is right around 3 1/2 inch (inside diameter of the two flanges -filter & air hose). This will slide into the rubber air hose to the motor, and slide into the rubber on the airfilter. I recommend using the sewer 3" fitting seeing that most other 3" actually has a diameter of 4" and it costs only 59 cents! Remember to put a bevel on the inside of the hub for better air-flow (I just used the grinding point & 200 grit sand paper)

-Metal scissors

-1/4 inch Black Vinyl hose. Make one cut parallel on the lenth of the hose and use to dress the metal that you cut to size.

I intially just used the metal divider but felt there was too much of an audible swoosh sound at idle when cold. When the motor gets to operating temp it settles down. I did install the hose insulator that you can see below as a test on the divider and around the new filter assembly to hush the swooshing sound. It worked. I will replace the pipe insulator with heat resistant pipe insulator at a later stage and fit it properly. Other than that I am satisfied with the final product. The sound is absolutely great at 4000 rpm +. I might upload a wav file some time soon so you can hear the differance as well if any of you are interested. In regards to performance I cannot tell without a dyno test. Either way it is a nice upgrade and looks great, I think...

Let me know what you think ! Here is some pics
 

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Discussion Starter #4
K&N

3" PVC Coupler. Remove the ridge with grinding point or round file. Cut down to around 3 1/2" then bevel the inside edge for better air flow. Sand with 180 or 200 grit sandpaper.
 

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K&N

Metal divider. Make sure to leave two "flaps" on bottom that you can use to attach to existing screw holes in bottom of filter housing.
 

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K&N

Temporary pipe insulation, will replace with heat resistant insulation soon. This will ensure that all air gets drawn from the air inlet duct in the bottom of the remaining piece of the standard airfilter housing.
 

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The install looks clean! Is there a noticable increase in performance? By chance did you have a before and after dyno run? Looks great, nice work.

Chris
 

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Gotta Ask

I am a big fan of K&Ns too. Just wondering why you went with this custom setup as opposed to getting the replacement K&N that simply fits in where the original did. What are the benefits for the extra work?
 

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Reply to XYZZY, GORDO and ...RVEHOCK

XYZZY: Sorry no dyno test. I am sure that the only noticable performance increase would be at 4000 rpm + when the motor needs the extra air when it comes on cam when the VTEC kicks in. The HP increase would most probably not be that much as would be expected with a forced induction setup. Maybe 5 to 10 HP. The motor does now rev 500 rpm higher before changing down to another gear and accelleration is definately improved above 4000 rpm.

GORDO: I went with the Custom seeing that the surface area of a Drop-in filter is the same as the standard. With the round filter the surface area is about double + you get the normal benefit of better flow with an air-intake that has the least bends. In this case none. I am not 100% sure but usually the drop in is also more expensive. Besides it is great fun to make these.

RVEHOCK:Thanks for nothing bud!
 

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ANYTIME BERNIE, Just trying to help. I have a K&N on both my MDX and 3.2 TL, I just used the drop-in OEM type so my warranty would not be in question.
 

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Looks professonal

Good job. I like it all, but would prefer something different from the pipe insulation. Your metal work looks like you care and pay attention to details. Is there a change in noise levels? BPILOT
 
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