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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just learned of the j35 bank one issue for the 2012 and possibly newer ones too that may have piston ring issues. Just did new plugs at 116k. All were good except 1, and 2 were a little dirty but not trashed. Should I be concerned? Runs like a top. Thanks
 

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Just learned of the j35 bank one issue for the 2012 and possibly newer ones too that may have piston ring issues. Just did new plugs at 116k. All were good except 1, and 2 were a little dirty but not trashed. Should I be concerned? Runs like a top. Thanks
Just kill that VCM.
I use S-VCM.
 

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^^^^ What he said!
I disabled it on both Pilots. The '13 you couldn't really tell if the VCM was turning on except for the ECO light, the '08 was horrible shuddering and was causing transmission issues. I haven't changed the spark plugs on either so I don't know if any damage was done, but I feel better knowing more damage can't be done.

A lot of people have no idea there could even be a problem and get tons of life out of their engines. It's totally up to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also from other posts I’ve read about vcm there may be a shudder. I feel a vibration but it feels like a wheel balance issue. Is that what the vibration of vcm could be making?
 

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Also from other posts I’ve read about vcm there may be a shudder. I feel a vibration but it feels like a wheel balance issue. Is that what the vibration of vcm could be making?
Most definitely could be the VCM taking you down to running on 3 or 4 cylinders.

I chose S-VCM because its plug in and forget about it, with no changing out resistors according to outside temps.
You VCM will not activate until your engine is at operating temperature. S-VCM tricks the computer into thinking your engine is not warmed up so it never activates VCM. The devise is installed on the temperature sensor and a wire lead is attached to the + post of the battery. Takes 5 minutes to install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
What are the chances of overheating the engine with vcm delete? Also will that give a false temp reading on the dash? And I still have the vibration on the highway going 80, which is outside the 40-60 mph. Thanks! I don’t mean to be a bother.
 

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Used the VCM muzzler on mine. Had to switch out to a different resistor (supplied with the kit and instructions). Was in an extended conversation with a friend while it idled last week. Cooling fans cycled on and off repeatedly. No overheating.
 

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What are the chances of overheating the engine with vcm delete?
It's the warning of a over heat problem that may concern me since its reading 30° lower than it really is. It can not be the cause. I just check my temp more often. Other things usually start happening before warning light comes on anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How do u check your temp? Scan tool? What do u think about the high speed vib? Vcm or no. Either way I think I’m gonna get thesvcm for peace of mind
 

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From the VCM muzzler FAQ's at the top of this page:

Q. Does the VCMuzzler II change the operating temperature of my vehicle?
A. No, your vehicle’s cooling system is unaffected. The fans operate as usual as they are turned on by ECT2. The actual operating temperature of your vehicle is unchanged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Also how has your mileage been with the delete. And am I to assume since it’s temp related the vcm kicks in on highway or at certain temp
 

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How do u check your temp? Scan tool? What do u think about the high speed vib? Vcm or no. Either way I think I’m gonna get thesvcm for peace of mind
My scan tool reads 166°.
Yes, it fixes vibrations although clean transmission fluid can be a factor.
I haven't noticed a milage decrease although they say there is one.
 

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My cooling fan doesn't come on unless I turn the A/C on. Does that mean one of the fans has gone bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
FYI just drove it around from cold. No discernible difference from vcm on and off. Watched for eco light and cannot feel when it kicks in or out. Regardless I ordered svcm. I figure do it now before I feel it. Thanks. Also I know this is not the post for it but y’all know the crush washer sizes for the rear diff, transfer case and tranny? Thanks
 

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FYI just drove it around from cold. No discernible difference from vcm on and off. Watched for eco light and cannot feel when it kicks in or out. Regardless I ordered svcm. I figure do it now before I feel it. Thanks. Also I know this is not the post for it but y’all know the crush washer sizes for the rear diff, transfer case and tranny? Thanks
If your engine temp reaches op temp, when your eco light comes on the VCM is active.
 

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What are the chances of overheating the engine with vcm delete? Also will that give a false temp reading on the dash? And I still have the vibration on the highway going 80, which is outside the 40-60 mph. Thanks! I don’t mean to be a bother.
The car won't overheat because of the delete, but it may make you blind to the car overheating from other causes. The VCM Muzzler will give you a false reading on the dash and potentially well into an overheat situation - meaning you may overheat and not know about it. The S-VCM and the VCM Tuner II both are smarter and will turn off if the car actually starts to overheat meaning you'll KNOW if there is a problem. Because of this - I'd only do the S-VCM or the VCM Tuner II. I have the S-VCM and have zero complaints with it.
 

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Used the VCM muzzler on mine. Had to switch out to a different resistor (supplied with the kit and instructions). Was in an extended conversation with a friend while it idled last week. Cooling fans cycled on and off repeatedly. No overheating.
I have the VC Muzzler on my 12 for about 15K miles, not a hiccup one. The only thing that has happened in heavy traffic(i.e. 4th of July at The Indiana Dunes National Park), the Eco light came on once or twice but once I started moving continuously it shuts back off.
 

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The needle runs about half a gauge unit lower with the VCMuzzler installed. Since there aren't any 'units" on the temp gauge, one can't say that the gauge won't alert you to overheating. The fans run as before, cycling on the temperature reading from a different sender.

After driving with the VCMuzzler and my tablet displaying and recording engine parameters via the OBD port, I'll echo the comments of others around how non-responsive the gauge needle is as actual coolant temps move around in the normal thermostat range. The thermostat is an absolutely plain control device, opening to a predictable position based solely on the current temperature it sees. There is no integration based on time at a certain temperature, so fan operation comes into the equation with more electronic smarts to help with temps. Still, I can watch the OBD coolant temp value move between about 180º and 220º in summer stop-and-go with AC, and observe almost no change in the dash gauge reading. Lots of needle movement when the temp exceeds about 225-230º though, so if you happen to be looking at the gauge you ~might~ notice the temp before you notice steam venting the cooling system. Face it, most drivers don't look at engine gauges until there's some other telltale or sensor alarm alerting them to an issue. It's somewhat an "idiot gauge", supplemented by a warning light and multi-display alert.
 
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