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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Tried putting my Svcm on but I cannot get the coolant sensor no 1 loose. Is there a trick to getting it loose?

Even though I didn’t get it off I have dash lites all over the place. Is there a way to get rid of the lites?

I might have actually damaged the wire a bit but it shouldn’t throw dash lites all over the place
 

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You're squeezing to unlock the retaining tab that holds the connector on the housing, yes?

If you disconnect it while the engine is still warm you'll get error codes. If it was dead cold when you started may be a different problem.
 

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Tried putting my Svcm on but I cannot get the coolant sensor no 1 loose. Is there a trick to getting it loose?

Even though I didn’t get it off I have dash lites all over the place. Is there a way to get rid of the lites?

I might have actually damaged the wire a bit but it shouldn’t throw dash lites all over the place
If the ECU can't find the ECT1 signal I'm guessing it wouldn't be very happy and let you know the only way it knows how, dash lights. Sometime pushing the connector down first will make it easier to release the catch by squeezing the connector way back by the wires. Once you hear the click, then you can just wiggle the connector off. You'll have to repair the damaged wire since that connector plugs into the SVCM. Once everything is connected, the lights should resolve by themselves after a while. If not, you can disconnect the battery for a while and the ECU will reset.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I did do this when everything was cold. But I see that I did disconnect the other end and didn’t reconnect that end. So I did reconnect that end. But I still have a bunch of lites but it did start up and run better.

I tried squeezing and pulling and that connector does not want to release. Plus it’s a very tight space to get into.

I did nick the wire a bit but it shouldn’t hurt the connection
 

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I did do this when everything was cold. But I see that I did disconnect the other end and didn’t reconnect that end. So I did reconnect that end. But I still have a bunch of lites but it did start up and run better.

I tried squeezing and pulling and that connector does not want to release. Plus it’s a very tight space to get into.

I did nick the wire a bit but it shouldn’t hurt the connection
Long needle nose pliers?
These push pin removal pliers work great on connectors too, especially if you need to get to it at an angle like the ETC1 connector.
Amazon.com: ARES 71135-30 Degree Push Pin Removal Pliers - Easily Removes Push Pin Style Fasteners - Prevents Damage to Trim and Fasteners: Automotive
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did try a needle nose, and that is why I kind of nicked the wire. It might be a issue that I just don't install the svcm.

I still have the Hill Assist, traction control, power steering and emission system problem lights are still on
 

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I did try a needle nose, and that is why I kind of nicked the wire. It might be a issue that I just don't install the svcm.

I still have the Hill Assist, traction control, power steering and emission system problem lights are still on
Try disconnecting the battery for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Long needle nose pliers?
These push pin removal pliers work great on connectors too, especially if you need to get to it at an angle like the ETC1 connector.
Amazon.com: ARES 71135-30 Degree Push Pin Removal Pliers - Easily Removes Push Pin Style Fasteners - Prevents Damage to Trim and Fasteners: Automotive

Thanks for the idea. I would still like to get the Svcm installed. I wonder if this is what Honda technician use to remove connectors that is hard to get to?
 

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Thanks for the idea. I would still like to get the Svcm installed. I wonder if this is what Honda technician use to remove connectors that is hard to get to?
I didn't get that tool for that reason. I just had it to make it easier to remove all those pesky push pins all over the car. It was just there in the tool box and seemed to work well for getting at that connector. I imagine Honda techs have that tool or one like it. The way the jaws are designed makes it ideal for putting enough pressure on the very end of the connector without damaging wires or the connector and grabbing the ridges in the connector to pull it out without slipping off.

BTW, Harbor Freight has them for $9
145912
 

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Sometimes the release clip on a connector can be stuck because it was not fully pressed in before attempting to pull. First push in, press, then pull. If it's still stuck, press the release clip, use a medium screwdriver, wedge under the clip and gently twist to get it moving.
Never use the wires to pull with.
 

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I did do this when everything was cold. But I see that I did disconnect the other end and didn’t reconnect that end. So I did reconnect that end. But I still have a bunch of lites but it did start up and run better.

I tried squeezing and pulling and that connector does not want to release. Plus it’s a very tight space to get into.

I did nick the wire a bit but it shouldn’t hurt the connection
I found this connector difficult to remove when I installed the S-VCM on our 2018. I just kept working on it carefully until it gave in. Yes, it is in a tight spot, and heat from the engine bakes the plastic and adds to the challenge. If you have damaged the wires or pulled them loose from inside the connector (and you might not be able to see this), you might be looking at splicing in a new wired connector for this sensor. I haven't tried to look up the part from Honda, but I bet that a new coolant temperature sensor connector with pigtail wires installed is available. A visit to the local dealer parts counter should help out. With the new part in hand, and the proper butt splicers and crimping tool, you could cut out the bad connector and replace it. Then install the S-VCM unit in the loop before you clip it all back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah, for now I disconnected the battery to see if that will reset all of the lights I have on the dashboard.

I did not pull on any of the wires, but who knows if any of them got damaged anyways. My release on the clip is towards the firewall of the vehicle, are all of yours like that?

By the way, when I opened up the hood, i found a couple of acorn shells between the hood and insulation, so something has been getting into my vehicle this winter.
 

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Yeah, for now I disconnected the battery to see if that will reset all of the lights I have on the dashboard.

I did not pull on any of the wires, but who knows if any of them got damaged anyways. My release on the clip is towards the firewall of the vehicle, are all of yours like that?

By the way, when I opened up the hood, i found a couple of acorn shells between the hood and insulation, so something has been getting into my vehicle this winter.
Mine was facing the front but they could be in any direction depending on how the sensor is threaded. The connector will only go on one way to match polarity.
Rodents just love chewing on that wire insulation as it is manufactured from soy based oils so I would watch out for that..
 

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Mine was facing the front but they could be in any direction depending on how the sensor is threaded. The connector will only go on one way to match polarity.
Rodents just love chewing on that wire insulation as it is manufactured from soy based oils so I would watch out for that..
Yes, be sure to use plenty of this...
145925
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Mine was facing the front but they could be in any direction depending on how the sensor is threaded. The connector will only go on one way to match polarity.
Rodents just love chewing on that wire insulation as it is manufactured from soy based oils so I would watch out for that..
Yeah, I think that is why I am having a hard time getting it off. Well, I still never was able to take it off. It just seemed I could not get a good grip on it and be able to pinch it at the same time to work it loose.
 

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Yeah, I think that is why I am having a hard time getting it off. Well, I still never was able to take it off. It just seemed I could not get a good grip on it and be able to pinch it at the same time to work it loose.
It is definitely the most difficult part of the installation. I used needle nose pliers to pinch the tab and a flat screwdriver in the other hand to gently pry the connector up. You don't need much force on the pliers to pinch the tab and definately don't be tempted to pull on the wiring. When you install the connector, you can hear the tab click into place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well, disconnecting the battery did the trick of getting the lights off of the dash, but I still do not have the VCM installed. Will try to get that push pin pliers and see if I can get that off that way.
 

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Well, disconnecting the battery did the trick of getting the lights off of the dash, but I still do not have the VCM installed. Will try to get that push pin pliers and see if I can get that off that way.
OK good on the battery disconnect and no lights. Good luck with the connector using the new tool.
 
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