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Oil changes are easy for me. Because I rotate the tires ever 5k miles. And I change oil every 10k using Amsoil Signature Series (25k mile oil). So every other tire rotation, I'm changing the oil which makes it easy to access everything since the tires are off. I'll never do it different, on any gas vehicle (diesel is an exception).
 

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Was the low oil pressure warning light on during the drive home from the dealer?
[/QUOT
So, "less than one quart of oil" in the engine and the low oil pressure warning light still didn't come on?
That's quite remarkable.
Didnt measure exactly but, an approximation 1.0-1.75qts MAX based on how much I had to put back in. In any was a good indication to check the levels IF you have a dealer do it and a good argument to do it yourself (esp looking at the price point)...as per original question posed.
 

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I use Mobil 1 or Fram XtraGuard filters made for use with full synthetics. I change that every other time. The reason is that there is no really easy way to change the filter without oil getting all over a frame member that is positioned almost directly beneath the filter.
2 options Honda Oil deflector and direct it into your container OR many (on lots of different vehicles) use a large Ziploc FREEZER bag (they are thicker). Loosen filter with wrench if needed but not enough to start dripping, put the bag around it so all oil drains in when you unscrew it. Keep some shop towel/rag over frame to catch drips. Have the new one ready to install (oiled gasket, filled if you prefer) prior to removal of old so you can reinstall and reduce dripping.
 

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Didnt measure exactly but, an approximation 1.0-1.75qts MAX based on how much I had to put back in. In any was a good indication to check the levels IF you have a dealer do it and a good argument to do it yourself (esp looking at the price point)...as per original question posed.
Many don't ever check. My Father-in-Laws Jeep was at least 1 quart low from his independent mechanic. Combine with some "normal" oil use his light turned on after 1,000 miles. I think it took 2.5 qts to get to bottom mark on dip stick.
 

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I bought a 1977 Honda civic and then a 1978 civic new and on both cars the oil light came on.. but once the light came on it was too late the engine was toast and had to be replaced... Honda replaced them without question. But many friends back then had civics too and they claimed the same story... if the oil light comes on your engine has already suffered extensive damage. From what's mentioned above it seems similar.
 

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I drive the front of the vehicle onto a pair of Rhino Ramps and then jack the rear of the vehicle up until it is level. I put four jack stands under the car then to prevent any injury if the ramps fail.

I can now change oil, filter, rotate the tires, clean and or service the brakes, change the differential fluid if needed, or the transfer case fluid. I can also check the underbody and inspect the suspension both from under the car and with having the tires off. I can see if there are any unusual leaks or stains under the car components such as oil or transmission leaks, brake line problems, etc.

It's a little bit of a pain to do it, but it only gets done two maybe three times a year depending on miles and what needs to be done. If nothing other than an oil and filter change, then I'll just drive it onto the ramps, use two jack stands for safety, and change the oil. If a rotation is also called for, then that's when all four wheels come off the ground. I have at times jacked the front up and off the front ramps to remove them for closer inspection if needed if the ramps are in the way. I just put the vehicle back down onto the jack stands when I remove the ramps.

Been doing most of my own maintenance and repairs for over 50 years and I still enjoy doing it MOST of the time. There are times with cold weather, dealer coupons, or my body just not cooperating enough that I may take it in for a service or two.
How do you rotate the tires if the front 2 are on the ramps?
 

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Let's face the facts here, there are 3 type of people:

-The people who like doing oil changes, like me. I like the excuse to get my tools out and have some me-time in the garage. I check on other fluid levels, check pad depth and generally take a look under the vehicle. I'm a big guy and have no issue seeing all of the suspension with the wheels on the ground in the Pilot and the Traverse, so not sure what those comments were about. I do not change the oil in the Sonata for two reasons: it's free and it happens twice a year, every time for the last 3 years I've done one of those $50 amazon gift card test drives so I get paid to get my oil changed.

-People who change the oil because they are so "cost conscious" (cheap) that saving $1 doing it themselves is worth it. I know plenty of people like this, that's good for them.

-People who don't want to change it themselves and use things like "inspections" and "the value of my time" (like you are some sort of high-powered executive) as excuses to not change their own oil. There's no shame, I'm not judging. Just admit you don't feel like crawling on the ground, getting yourself and your tools dirty, when it's really cold or really hot, etc. Again, I don't blame these people and my dad has transitioned to one of them as he gets older. Just stop with the excuses.
I'm proud to be one of the third group. I rarely have to theme nor inclination to climb under my vehicles to perform routine maintenance. When I do, being retired military, I go to the base auto craft shop and get a lift bay at a cheap hourly rate and use their tools and equipment. My dealership has done a great job 99.9% of the time on all my Hondas (seven) over the years. On occasions when I've questioned or called them out on an issue they understood and corrected the problem immediately.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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How do you rotate the tires if the front 2 are on the ramps?

I either use my floor jack to lift each front tire off the ramp and make sure the car jack stand is under the suspension for safety, or when done with everything I back off the ramps and then use the floor jack and a jack stand. I start with the left front off the floor using my floor jack
, put a jack stand under it, and remove the wheel.

I leave the front left on a jack stand with the wheel removed and move to the left rear. I jack that up, use a jack stand for safety, and remove that tire. I then put the left front tire in that position, lower the vehicle and move to the right front with the tire I just took off. Jack the right front up, remove the wheel, install the right rear tire there, and lower the vehicle. The right rear gets the wheel from the right front, and the right rear wheel gets put on the right front.

Owner's manual says to use the front to rear, rear to front and crossed pattern, so that is how I do it.

133870
 

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I don't care if the dealer changed the oil for free, I still wouldn't have them do it. Call me crazy but those of you who KNOW, know why I say this.
For me it is actually more convenient to do it myself. I can do it at 730am on a Saturday morning if I want and I get it done quickly rather than sit in their lobby reading old Car and Driver magazines for an hour

The fact that I save some money is icing, and also I know it was actually done and done correctly. Awhile back Jiffy Lube forgot to put on my oil filler cap. That was a nice burned oil mess when I figured it out

THE BIGGER BENEFIT IN MY MIND is that doing your own oil and filter is the gateway drug to more profitable DIY like changing tranny fluid, doing brake pads and rotors etc. I have worked my way up to recently doing lower control arms on Odyssey. Once you have the jack and Jack stands and some tools those DIYs really start paying off financially. The simple oil change is less impactful from a financial standpoint. Also I like being able to rotate tires quickly and easily rather than going somewhere to have it done
 

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I leave the front left on a jack stand with the wheel removed and move to the left rear. I jack that up, use a jack stand for safety, and remove that tire.
I do a similar process but use the spare tire instead of a jack stand on the front left. It is a good excuse to lower the spare and check its air pressure and condition too. I lower spare, use floor jack to lift left front, put it on left front, then follow back to front cross per Honda until left with passenger rear tire to put on driver front removing spare tire. Would be way easier with a vehicle lift, but not too bad. I will take it to NTB when I think tires might need machine balancing, their lifetime balancing is a good deal if bought with tires.

Hope this helps answer the question about rotating the tires.

I stick with Honda oil filters until the powertrain warranty runs out, then change to Bosch or Mobil1. Might have to stick with the Honda on the 19 Pilot, less space for the longer oil filters below the cross member. I also keep printed records of my maintenance work in case I need to fight with Honda over a warranty issue (never needed so far). I write an email to myself with work details and print and file with other vehicle records.
 

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I do a similar process but use the spare tire instead of a jack stand on the front left. It is a good excuse to lower the spare and check its air pressure and condition too. I lower spare, use floor jack to lift left front, put it on left front, then follow back to front cross per Honda until left with passenger rear tire to put on driver front removing spare tire. Would be way easier with a vehicle lift, but not too bad. I will take it to NTB when I think tires might need machine balancing, their lifetime balancing is a good deal if bought with tires.

Hope this helps answer the question about rotating the tires.

I stick with Honda oil filters until the powertrain warranty runs out, then change to Bosch or Mobil1. Might have to stick with the Honda on the 19 Pilot, less space for the longer oil filters below the cross member. I also keep printed records of my maintenance work in case I need to fight with Honda over a warranty issue (never needed so far). I write an email to myself with work details and print and file with other vehicle records.
Curious why you guys don't just use the floor jack in the front center to lift the whole front end rather than 1 side at a time?

My method is to raise the front end, put it on 2 jackstands, open the oil plug and let it begin draining, remove front wheels and roll them back to rear, use jack to jack up rear and quickly swap those wheels with the ones I just took off the front, roll those wheels up to front and cross sides, put those wheels back on, close drain plug and then refill oil and done. I do the filter every other change since I use good quality Fram Ultras rather than Honda okay ones. So it is easy to replace the filter while that passenger side front wheel is off.

I also built wood ramps awhile back that are fine but honestly it is easier to just jack up and use stands quickly and then you can rotate tires too. Usually I just put my ramps turned up sideways as another fallback for the jack stands now.
 

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With the wash job $50 Is a great deal. I just can't stand the wait, lol.
The full synthetic oil + filter I use is $40. I go 7,500 miles on that.
 
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Curious why you guys don't just use the floor jack in the front center to lift the whole front end rather than 1 side at a time
I don’t trust the jack stands enough to put all corners on jack stands - ha ha. For oil changes, I floor jack in front center, put in two jack stands at left and right front lift points and do the oil change process. I put it back down and do the corner at a time with the spare tire for the tire rotations.
 

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I don’t trust the jack stands enough to put all corners on jack stands - ha ha. For oil changes, I floor jack in front center, put in two jack stands at left and right front lift points and do the oil change process. I put it back down and do the corner at a time with the spare tire for the tire rotations.
Yeah I guess I am relying on the stands to some extent but what I often do is one front tire per time. So the front is on jackstands and then I use the jack to do up the rear. I don't bother putting stands on the rear since I am doing one wheel at a time and I never get under the car back there. So lift the back and then take one front wheel off, roll it back and quickly swap it, then do the other. So both front wheels are never off at the same time, and both rear wheels are never off at the same time. There is I guess a moment of peril when I am swapping the rear because at that time both wheels on one side are off, so yeah if the jackstand on that side AND the floor jack both failed in those couple mins then I would have a problem.
 

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With the oil and filter, my oil changes cost $28, inclusive of all taxes. I get my oil and filter from Amazon and do the change in my driveway (I have a Ridgeline and a Gen 5 Odyssey). Takes me 20 min and I know what oil and filter I replaced. I do not have to worry about waiting in the dealership, or them fudging something up.
 

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Yeah I guess I am relying on the stands to some extent but what I often do is one front tire per time. So the front is on jackstands and then I use the jack to do up the rear. I don't bother putting stands on the rear since I am doing one wheel at a time and I never get under the car back there. So lift the back and then take one front wheel off, roll it back and quickly swap it, then do the other. So both front wheels are never off at the same time, and both rear wheels are never off at the same time. There is I guess a moment of peril when I am swapping the rear because at that time both wheels on one side are off, so yeah if the jackstand on that side AND the floor jack both failed in those couple mins then I would have a problem.
this is exactly how i do rotations too. when you lift the rear corner on the floor jack, its only up for about a minute. just enough to get the old wheel off, new wheel on, get the lug nuts on, lower. easy.
 

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I replaced the factory mini spare tire with a full size wheel and tire which matches the factory 20" wheels and tire brand. I mounted it with the valve stem facing down so I don't have to lower it to check the air pressure. There is no way I want to remove it even every 5000-6500 miles for use during tire rotations. It's heavy, it's awkward, it's a bit of a bear lining it up under the car when retracting it back into place, and I don't mind leaving the left front on a jack stand while I rotate the tires.

I guess I could use the mini spare I took off (just sitting in the storage shed) but I'm happy doing it the way I have been. I have used the center lifting point in the rear of the car to get both sides up and on stands, but haven't done it that way with the front.
 

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I replaced the factory mini spare tire with a full size wheel and tire which matches the factory 20" wheels and tire brand. I mounted it with the valve stem facing down so I don't have to lower it to check the air pressure. There is no way I want to remove it even every 5000-6500 miles for use during tire rotations. It's heavy, it's awkward, it's a bit of a bear lining it up under the car when retracting it back into place, and I don't mind leaving the left front on a jack stand while I rotate the tires.

I guess I could use the mini spare I took off (just sitting in the storage shed) but I'm happy doing it the way I have been. I have used the center lifting point in the rear of the car to get both sides up and on stands, but haven't done it that way with the front.
I don't know for sure on the Pilot but I assume it has a good center lifting point like on my Odyssey and Accord
 
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