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The J35 oil pan is already designed with a slope toward the drain plug. The vehicle was designed to change the oil when level. Putting it on ramps won't hurt a thing, but it also wont make any difference. Changing the oil when the vehicle is level will not "hinder" the oil change in any way.

If you look closely at the lowest part of the oil pan, you will notice that the drain plug hole is slightly above it. Regardless, it’s easier for the DIYer to raise just the front of the vehicle, and nobody raises the back of the vehicle because it’s a pointless waste of time. Sure, the people who do oil changes on a lift raise both front and back of the vehicle, as most lifts aren’t capable of lifting the front independently of the rear. Bottom line is that you can’t fight gravity.
 

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My pilot is near the end of warranty and I wanted to start saving money doing my own oil change, but it seems like it will come out the same or not that much savings as I have to do the labor and clean up. My dealership charges $50 and throws in free car wash.

How much is full synthetic these days $20+ then the genuine honda oil filter, and perhaps the washer. Seems like I'd be saving $10-20 doing it myself but that seems ok to pay than having to go under the car and get dirty, and the time spent doing this.

For $50 I go to the dealership, stay in the lounge for an hour drinking all i can drink coffee, latte, capacino etc and their crappy pastries and using their wifi, then I get a car wash too.
Kudos on milking the dealership of all those beverages, but I guess I like to know what's being done to my car, so I do just as much of the work as I can, especially oil changes. For the first ten years I owned my 2003 Pilot and 2000 Accord, I was like most folks and paid people at JiffyLubes and carwashes (!) to change my oil, but what ended up happening was, due their sloppy work habits, the threads got stripped in the drain ports of BOTH vehicles' drain pans. I ended up tapping new threads and bought Fumoto Qwik-Drains, so now oil swaps are a breeze in my cars. That was actually the beginning of my journey into becoming a self-taught (with alot of help from some excellent Youtube gurus) shade-tree mechanic, and now I've got just about everything I need to do most of my own stuff, just don't have a lift, but a couple of good floor jacks and a bunch of jack stands can get you most of the way there. My opinion? Change your own oil, at minimum. While you're down there, you can get a good look at things and you'll become a more attentive owner, whether you decide to do much of your own work or not.
 

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Haha you need to go back and reread my post... And stop being so sensitive! These oil type/oil filter/OCI threads always get so angry on every forum. Take a deep breath.
Not angry on my end. Just stating my opinion as you did yours.😁
 

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I'm on my 6th (Pilot 2005) and 7th (Accord 2011) car now. I keep my cars till I donate them. I learned early on that doing the basic maintenance (mostly changing the fluids) gave me the confidence to change some minor parts as well (especially after I joined this forum when I bought my new 05 Pilot back then--thanks!). Please don't get me wrong. I also use the dealership, Pepboys and Jiffy Lube when I had to (and realized great savings in time, money and effort as well as save my knuckles depending on the given situation--over the years, I learned when to use their services). Now, the Pilot is almost 15 years old and it seems that I know almost every grunt and squeal of this vehicle (likewise with all the cars that I owned). The sweat and blood (from skinned knuckles) allowed me to feel for all my vehicles (esp this Pilot). By the way, I believed that most of the reasons given here by posters are valid--saving time, money and effort depends on each individual situation and perspective, imho. Thanks!
 

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Las Weekend I took my 2016 CPO (only 18,500 miles) for its first oil change under my ownership. I paid $106.00 for B1 service, Oil change and tire rotation + complementary inspection + top off fluids and exterior car wash. The service was done at the dealership where I bought the car back in May this year, which is 27 miles from my home, 30 minutes drive. I have a closer dealer which is only 5 miles from my home, 10 minutes drive (We actually leased our previous car, 2016 CR-V from this dealer). When I called this dealer and I asked for the cost of B1 service for my 2016 AWD EX-L Pilot, the told the cost is $230.00! I couldn't believe it. I'm just wondering if this was a mistake, I'll call again next time I'm due for oil change just in case to see If I'm told the same.

Since my car is CPO and I also extended the warranty with Honda Care, I prefer to have the services documented with a Honda dealer.
 

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Las Weekend I took my 2016 CPO (only 18,500 miles) for its first oil change under my ownership. I paid $106.00 for B1 service, Oil change and tire rotation + complementary inspection + top off fluids and exterior car wash. The service was done at the dealership where I bought the car back in May this year, which is 27 miles from my home, 30 minutes drive. I have a closer dealer which is only 5 miles from my home, 10 minutes drive (We actually leased our previous car, 2016 CR-V from this dealer). When I called this dealer and I asked for the cost of B1 service for my 2016 AWD EX-L Pilot, the told the cost is $230.00! I couldn't believe it. I'm just wondering if this was a mistake, I'll call again next time I'm due for oil change just in case to see If I'm told the same.

Since my car is CPO and I also extended the warranty with Honda Care, I prefer to have the services documented with a Honda dealer.
Your car is AWD? You should have had the "6" sub code for the differential fluid to be changed come up at that mileage. It usually shows up between 12000 and 18000 miles according to what others on the forum have reported.

Perhaps the dealer who quoted $230.00 added in the differential service and the first dealer who did the work for $106.00 didn't even consider doing the differential fluid? Perhaps it had already been done prior to this service due and had been deleted from the MM?
 

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Your car is AWD? You should have had the "6" sub code for the differential fluid to be changed come up at that mileage. It usually shows up between 12000 and 18000 miles according to what others on the forum have reported.

Perhaps the dealer who quoted $230.00 added in the differential service and the first dealer who did the work for $106.00 didn't even consider doing the differential fluid? Perhaps it had already been done prior to this service due and had been deleted from the MM?
Yes, my car is AWD. Maintenance Minder only displayed B1 service, nothing else. I bought the car as a CPO with 13,500 miles last May. Perhaps it was done right before I bought the car, I'll check the paperwork I have from the purchase. I could call the dealer and ask if they have records as well. Thank you for pointing that out. If it had not been done, I may take it for differential fluid service.

For the dealer that quoted me $230, I told them I need service B1 for oil change and tire rotation. They didn't mention anything about the differential fluid.
 

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I do my own oil changes on both my Pilots, 2003 and 2007. I use Valvoline High Mileage full synthetic and change it when the Maintenance Minder tells me to. I use Mobil 1 or Fram XtraGuard filters made for use with full synthetics. I change that every other time. The reason is that there is no really easy way to change the filter without oil getting all over a frame member that is positioned almost directly beneath the filter. I use ramps, although I suppose I could shimmy underneath the vehicle to do the job without.

I must point out there is a single grease zerk on some kind of control arm on one of them that needs to be shot full of grease every now and then.

I have no problems with dealerships or quick-lube places, however, my gut feel is that the techs are not well trained. Just need to follow up with the service writer to make sure all of the work was complete. Check the oil level yourself or with them before you leave.

Story: A few years ago friend of mine, Pete, took his under warranty Blazer to a quick lube that was part of a large, reputable dealer in town for a shimmy in the steering. They called him a few hours later and said, "Pete, your ball joint is bad. Needs to be replaced and will cost about $400." Pete said, "I thought it was under warranty". They told him, "We cut the ball joint open and it has never been greased." Pete responded, "I bring the Blazer to your quick lube every 3 to 4 thousand miles. If they did not grease the ball joint, that is on you." A few minutes later they called back and said they would be putting the ball joint in at their cost.

Imagine if he had taken it to an independent quick lube, not associated with the dealership.
 

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I must point out there is a single grease zerk on some kind of control arm on one of them that needs to be shot full of grease every now and then.
I used to love grease zerks, but I haven't seen one in ages. Pic, please. :)
 

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Have you ever had an oil change go "very wrong" when it was done at a Honda dealer?
Yes, at Garden State Honda, on my old 2010 Accord.... “changed” my oil, got home and measured less than 1qt of oil in the engine. Never again.
 

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I'm hoping to buy a Pilot soon and was wondering when you change the oil yourself is there any cowlings or plastic pans under the engine that need to be removed to get access to the oil drain plug and the oil filter? I ask this because my VW was a nightmare.. the dealer did my oil change originally and they didn't install all the fasteners for the large plastic belly pan that concealed everything. The end result being it fell off on the road and was lost. The dealer tried to claim I ran over something and caused my own damage except I got under the vehicle just after the oil change to inspect everything and noticed the missing fasteners. I should have brought it back before it fell off! Mazda has also done the same to me. I no longer trust dealers.. they cut corners it seems and lie regularly. It's always the owners fault while they maintain they are perfect.
 

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I'm hoping to buy a Pilot soon and was wondering when you change the oil yourself is there any cowlings or plastic pans under the engine that need to be removed to get access to the oil drain plug and the oil filter? I ask this because my VW was a nightmare.. the dealer did my oil change originally and they didn't install all the fasteners for the large plastic belly pan that concealed everything. The end result being it fell off on the road and was lost. The dealer tried to claim I ran over something and caused my own damage except I got under the vehicle just after the oil change to inspect everything and noticed the missing fasteners. I should have brought it back before it fell off! Mazda has also done the same to me. I no longer trust dealers.. they cut corners it seems and lie regularly. It's always the owners fault while they maintain they are perfect.
What year are you looking to buy? Our 2nd gen (09-15) has no cladding blocking access to the oil, transmission or transfer case plugs. I can change all 3 without lifting the Pilot off the ground, quite a feat for a 300 lb 6'3" guy.

One of my buddies with an A4 had the shield you reference rip off while driving in the snow. He got one of the metal ones to replace it. I am assuming the excuse is it helps with efficiency and protects electronics but I think it just gives them an excuse to not thoughtfully design pathways and locations for said electronics.
 

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My pilot is near the end of warranty and I wanted to start saving money doing my own oil change, but it seems like it will come out the same or not that much savings as I have to do the labor and clean up. My dealership charges $50 and throws in free car wash.

How much is full synthetic these days $20+ then the genuine honda oil filter, and perhaps the washer. Seems like I'd be saving $10-20 doing it myself but that seems ok to pay than having to go under the car and get dirty, and the time spent doing this.

For $50 I go to the dealership, stay in the lounge for an hour drinking all i can drink coffee, latte, capacino etc and their crappy pastries and using their wifi, then I get a car wash too.
Do they replace the filter also? And where are you getting your synthetic oil from? I get Mobil Full Synthetic for 27 bucks from Sam's Club when they are on sale...I usually get like 6 boxes. The filter is 5 bucks from dealer...and the crush washer is like 50 something cents. I agree that sometimes its just not worth it...but I have heard way too many stories where the dealer didn't tighten the drain plug, or didn't replace the filter but were charged for it, etc. It's a personal decision. If you are comfortable with your dealer, go right ahead. I have been changing my oil since it's first oil change and I will continue to keep doing so.
 

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What year are you looking to buy? Our 2nd gen (09-15) has no cladding blocking access to the oil, transmission or transfer case plugs. I can change all 3 without lifting the Pilot off the ground, quite a feat for a 300 lb 6'3" guy.

One of my buddies with an A4 had the shield you reference rip off while driving in the snow. He got one of the metal ones to replace it. I am assuming the excuse is it helps with efficiency and protects electronics but I think it just gives them an excuse to not thoughtfully design pathways and locations for said electronics.
The oil filter is in a really weird position behind the passenger side front wheel. A wrench won't really get under there, and even if you tighten it as little as possible, it is sometimes hard to pull off. Otherwise, all the drain plugs are easily accessible.
 

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The oil filter is in a really weird position behind the passenger side front wheel. A wrench won't really get under there, and even if you tighten it as little as possible, it is sometimes hard to pull off. Otherwise, all the drain plugs are easily accessible.
I turn the wheel all the way to the driver's side... no issues getting it off for me, but I've done every oil change since we bought it so I never overtighten. I usually have nitrile gloves on just to keep the hot oil off my skin, they do provide extra grip for sure.
 

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I'm thinking of a 2020 Touring 8P (in Canada) which I believe to be the same as an Elite model in the USA.

What year are you looking to buy? Our 2nd gen (09-15) has no cladding blocking access to the oil, transmission or transfer case plugs. I can change all 3 without lifting the Pilot off the ground, quite a feat for a 300 lb 6'3" guy.

One of my buddies with an A4 had the shield you reference rip off while driving in the snow. He got one of the metal ones to replace it. I am assuming the excuse is it helps with efficiency and protects electronics but I think it just gives them an excuse to not thoughtfully design pathways and locations for said electronics.
 

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I'm thinking of a 2020 Touring 8P (in Canada) which I believe to be the same as an Elite model in the USA.
Gotcha... could be in a different location than our 2nd gen '15 model. And since our front bumper is a little higher it makes access underneath that much easier.
 
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