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I hope this bit of information will help anyone who finds themselves with a malfunctioning a/c system. Given the known issue with the Omron A/C clutch relay a quick test may save you trip to your mechanic.
Hi Trek15,
You helped me saving quite a fortune. AC was cool at the beginning and then stops cooling, then another 1 min of cooling and dead for another 5. The mechanic insisted on changing the compressor, that is the first thing they recommend which costs around 600USD where I live.

I just switched the two relays (ac with radiator fan) to see and AC is back. Trying to find a new one around, or I will order from amazon.

Thanks again. Whenever you feel depressed, always remember that you made my day today on 5th October 2017. :smile:
 

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I had another post about this, but thanks to theFisch, he directed me to some info and here.

Problem - originally only hot air blew, replaced relay and now the compressor comes on. However, it is only coming on for about 10 seconds, shutting off, then back on again for 10 seconds with everything set for Max A/C. During my troubleshooting I did inspect the mix motor and found it to be working because at times only passenger side would blow cold.

So now I am trying to figure out the intermittent compressor clutch problem. Thanks.
 

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Hey guys,

Same issue here on my wife's 2010 EX-L. I bought a new relay and it blew cold for about a minute then the compressor turned off and on again now only hot air :-( Any ideas before taking it to a shop?
Coolant level good.

Thanks,
Semper Fi
 

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I am having the same issue only I checked and both fan and compressor relays are Mitsuba. I switched the relays to see if the problem at least transferred over to the condenser fan but nothing changed. I did note that while the A/C failure is in progress that both fans are coming on but at a low speed. This morning I checked the system from a cold start and the A/C compressor and BOTH fans come on and are blowing MUCH faster than during the failure. The A/C is blowing nice cold air. I don't have a service manual for my 2012 Pilot Touring, just the Owner's Manual. Is there a condenser fan switch somewhere under the hood? I am thinking that something is getting hot and failing to operate properly.
 

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Check this first?

I have a 2009 Pilot (sold as a 2008) and I'd like to share what might be a cost saving measure about AC:

My AC blew luke-cold, luke-warm, then warm air. I'm frugal (duh - Honda). I did all maintenance with the dealer up until my 95k timing belt and water-pump (and later air-bag recall). But I distrust the local Honda service departments here in Baltimore. Which by the way is a very hot/humid city. So I turned to my trusty, more than capable mechanic.

He's a cool guy but not beyond wanting to replace everything (compressor etc) to just get it done and fixed for good.

I convinced him to let me look over his shoulder to check for leaks via the dye in refrigerant and infrared light(?). Low and behold one of the hoses/connectors seemed to be leaking. He still wanted to replace everything but I convinced him to only replace the hoses - the entire armature of hoses and connectors.

It cost allot less and it totally fixed the issue - 30k miles later I still have ice cold AC at 170k.

I'm wondering if allot of the issues with the clutch/compressor components mentioned in this thread are due to running low on refrigerant/pressure due to leaks. Leaks are not readily apparent because you can't see them with the naked eye especially because there is so much condensation dripping etc. So, you have to look at the hoses/connections under a special light.

So if you have AC that gradually loses it's cooling power I would suggest finding someone wiling to look for a leak. I'm lucky, my mechanic is curious. Find a curious mechanic!
 

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As it turns out, the problem was a bad ac compressor clutch coil. The cost of the coil and replacing it was almost as much a new Denso compressor so I ordered a new compressor from Rockauto. Had a mechanic install and it works like a champ. I am keeping the old compressor and will hopefully buy a compressor clutch coil off of eBay for much less than the dealer price and repair the old compressor to keep for a spare.
 

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When you guys say intermittent, do you mean the air is cold and then hot, or that the vents blow air sometimes and not others? My front two middle vents sometimes blow air and sometimes don't. It's been more don't lately, do you think these relays will fix my problem? I'm getting cold air at my feet and the side vents (a little), just no blowing from the middle vents. Should I replace this fuse?
Fyi: Picture attached is of the cover of the passenger fuse box.
 

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I am having this same problem. Did you ever get a solution? Warm driver, cold passenger. And every now and then the rear goes full on hot!!!
 

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Looking for thoughts on my situation (2009 Touring, nearly 300k miles):


1. Rear A/C works ALWAYS.


2. Front A/C works intermittently (cannot determine the cause), either:
2a. Both sides cold, or

2b. A process begins where the driver's becomes warm (from cold) while the passenger's side remains cold. (I can tell when this happens as all of a sudden the humidity rises.), Shortly thereafter, both become warm (and humid).


3. I have checked:
3a. the air mix control motor on the driver's side (manual pg 21-78). It appears to function properly.
3b. the front mode control motor on the passenger's side (manual pg 21-79). It appears to function properly.
3c. the recirculation control motor on the passengers's side (manual pg 21-80). It appears to function although it does not seem to close all of the way for full recirculation.
3d. the cabin air/pollen filter behind the glove box.



4. The self-test returns H and D+Defrost symbol.
4a. H = A problem in the rear air mix control linkage, door, or motor circuit (see page 21-172). Not sure this is related, unless I don't understand how this works and the front and rear BOTH run through this.

4b. D+Defrost = A problem in the recirculation linkage, door, or motor circuit (see page 21-184). This may be because it is not closing fully. Don't think this is related.


In the past (several years ago), I had to replace the relay and saw an overpressure release. I have a new relay today as well but replacing it didn't seem to have an impact. I will permanently insert the replacement relay since I bought a new one.



I replaced the alternator and accessory belt several weeks ago. I do not think the a/c issue started immediately after, but it wasn't long after. Replaced the started several weeks before that. (Fuel pump is on the list next.)



My next step was to check the charge of the system, but if the rear a/c ALWAYS works, I don't think that is the issue.


Anything else to try or info I can provide to help diagnose?


Thanks
 

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Looking for thoughts on my situation (2009 Touring, nearly 300k miles):


1. Rear A/C works ALWAYS.


2. Front A/C works intermittently (cannot determine the cause), either:
2a. Both sides cold, or

2b. A process begins where the driver's becomes warm (from cold) while the passenger's side remains cold. (I can tell when this happens as all of a sudden the humidity rises.), Shortly thereafter, both become warm (and humid).


3. I have checked:
3a. the air mix control motor on the driver's side (manual pg 21-78). It appears to function properly.
3b. the front mode control motor on the passenger's side (manual pg 21-79). It appears to function properly.
3c. the recirculation control motor on the passengers's side (manual pg 21-80). It appears to function although it does not seem to close all of the way for full recirculation.
3d. the cabin air/pollen filter behind the glove box.



4. The self-test returns H and D+Defrost symbol.
4a. H = A problem in the rear air mix control linkage, door, or motor circuit (see page 21-172). Not sure this is related, unless I don't understand how this works and the front and rear BOTH run through this.

4b. D+Defrost = A problem in the recirculation linkage, door, or motor circuit (see page 21-184). This may be because it is not closing fully. Don't think this is related.


In the past (several years ago), I had to replace the relay and saw an overpressure release. I have a new relay today as well but replacing it didn't seem to have an impact. I will permanently insert the replacement relay since I bought a new one.



I replaced the alternator and accessory belt several weeks ago. I do not think the a/c issue started immediately after, but it wasn't long after. Replaced the started several weeks before that. (Fuel pump is on the list next.)



My next step was to check the charge of the system, but if the rear a/c ALWAYS works, I don't think that is the issue.


Anything else to try or info I can provide to help diagnose?


Thanks
From what you've described, I would suspect the front TXV. Search online and you will find similar symptoms to your issue with that being the culprit.
 

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Thank YOU!

Well...My 2011 is at 99,500 miles and while working with my local garage to replace rear brakes (pads and rotors)--what happens? The A/C cuts out completely---as I'm driving home from the garage.

While I didn't have any intermittent a/c failures (just one--hot air only) and no drained battery, a quick look at the compressor pulley clearly showed the clutch was not engaging.

On the advice/info learned here, I picked up a replacement relay ($6.00!!!), popped it in, and I am back into cold air.

Thanks all.
 

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Great post!! My 2011 Touring had intermittent AC and this was the exact issue.
I swapped the relay with the fan relay (same relay) and the compressor kicked right on!
thank
 

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My wife has a 2012 Honda Pilot bought it in July of this year, took our first long trip in it a week later and noticed that the AC would work for about 45 min and then quit, we shut off for 10 min or so and would work again. Looked online for issues similar to that and found that the relay might be bad. We pull over to an Oreilleys and purchased a new relay, it did not solve the issue. We recently discovered that the rear AC is not affected, still blows cold air but front blows room temp air. Any help is appreciated.
 

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My wife has a 2012 Honda Pilot bought it in July of this year, took our first long trip in it a week later and noticed that the AC would work for about 45 min and then quit, we shut off for 10 min or so and would work again. Looked online for issues similar to that and found that the relay might be bad. We pull over to an Oreilleys and purchased a new relay, it did not solve the issue. We recently discovered that the rear AC is not affected, still blows cold air but front blows room temp air. Any help is appreciated.
 

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My wife has a 2012 Honda Pilot bought it in July of this year, took our first long trip in it a week later and noticed that the AC would work for about 45 min and then quit, we shut off for 10 min or so and would work again. Looked online for issues similar to that and found that the relay might be bad. We pull over to an Oreilleys and purchased a new relay, it did not solve the issue. We recently discovered that the rear AC is not affected, still blows cold air but front blows room temp air. Any help is appreciated.
Have some check pressures. You should look into the expansion valve for the front evap coil. Look for signs that the coil may be freezing up.
 
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