[dr bob]

Welcome both of you to Piloteers!

Start with the basics --

-- Is the interior lights switch set in mid position? That's the little slider switch on the left side in the overhead console. Most 'no interior lights anymore' reports here have been solved with that switch.

After that, there's a fuse. Fuses generally don't 'blow' on their own, but there's always a chance.

 

[dr bob]

yeah i put the slider switch to the middle and to the top position and nothing works. I've checked the interior light fuse under the hood which also is still good. So are you saying that slider switch can go bad and should be replaced?

While the switch -might- go bad, my suggestion is aimed at soling the most common cause of your symptom -- switch accidentally moved to the wrong position.

The next steps are aimed at electrically troubleshooting for possible failures. Interior lights operations are managed via the MICU, the 'smarts' part of the under-dash fuse and relay box. Because the car uses the door switches for lots of things, like external lighting, alarm and immobilizer, etc., beyond just operating the interior lights, troubleshooting isn't quite as easy as it was in the pre- computerized cars era. In the last few days, a reader posted to a vintage thread that includes a downloadable copy of the workshop manuals. There's an electrical troubleshooting manual in there that includes current flow diagrams.

Before digging deep into that, you might just replace that fuse 22 under the hood, look for power in each map light assembly at the WHT wire coming in. It should show battery voltage at all times. Since you report that no interior lights are working, the fuse and wiring from that fuse are the only failure elements common to all the interior lights.

The MICU manages the ground paths for the 2nd and 3rd row overhead lights only. To wit, the 1st row map lights can be operated directly regardless of the position of the roof console slider switch or MICU function, via direct ground connection through the BLK wire in each lamp/switch. If those work, the fuse and supply wiring are OK and you get to move on to testing connections and functions at the MICU.

Look at 114 in the electrical manual, where the current flow and connections are detailed. OK if you decide to replace the overhead console to get things to work again, but at least do some basic troubleshooting to rule out the obvious.

 

[dr bob]

You should see battery voltage (12.6VDC at rest...) at the WHITE wire in each overhead light fixture, referenced to chassis ground. That wire feeds one side of each and every bulb in an overhead fixture. The only thing that separates those from the battery is FUSE 22 in the Main Under-Hood Fuse and Relay Box. That's the one over on the passenger side of the engine bay, by the way, NOT the Aux Under-Hood Fuse and Relay Box, which lives next to the battery. (See the circuit details at the bottom of this post.)

In the FRONT overhead console, the two individual map light sockets have a latching push switch that internally connects the other (not tied to battery voltage via the WHITE wire) side of the bulb to either the BLACK wire, which connects to ground point G701 (if you have sunroof) or G401 (without sunroof). At All Times, you should be able to read Battery Voltage (12.6VDC at rest) at the WHITE wire incoming to each front map light socket to the BLACK wire from chassis ground. IF you can see Battery Voltage at the WHITE WIRE referenced to chassis ground, but can't see it referenced to the BLACK wire in the socket, you may have a problem in the BLACK wire or the ground point.

If you do .not. see Battery Voltage at the WHITE wire, referenced to chassis ground .or. to the BLACK wire, you have a supply problem between the battery and the map light socket, through fuse 22 and the WHITE wire. I suspect that you have this problem, since fuse 22 and the white wire(s) are the only elements common to all of the bulb sockets and functions.

More:

-- Your reported reading of 24 volts is troubling, because there isn't really a source for 24 volts in the car.

-- Are you looking at the -correct- fuse 22, the one in the main Under-Hood Fuse and Relay box?

-- You can test the integrity of the fuse in situ, using a needle probe into the tiny test holes in the back of the fuse. Reference is chassis ground, you should see Battery Voltage on both sides of that fuse at all times.

-- Have you added any electrical accessories or done any work on the car recently? Have you found water on the floor that might be leaking at the windshield or from a plugged sunroof drain?

-- The second and third row plus the cargo area lights all have ground return paths through the left-side slide switch in the overhead console. With that switch in the ALWAYS-ON position, the BLACK-With-BLUE-TRACER wires in those lights should be connected to chassis ground. With battery voltage at one side of each bulb, .and. chassis ground at each Black-with-Blue wire, the bulb in the socket should illuminate.

-- Fuse 22 (7.5A) in the Main Under-Hood Fuse and Relay Box feeds several other circuits, all via WHITE wires and through the MICU and Under-Dash Fuse and Relay Box. For the interior overhead lights, power exits the Interior Fuse and Relay Box at terminal R10 (WHITE), which you can test with a needle probe into the back of the connector with the connector in place. This is shown on page 10-15 in that electrical manual.

-- Current continues through Pin 16 of connector C701, which is in the left (driver's side) A-pillar hidden by the plastic cover trim. Use extreme care when opening that cover and fiddling with wiring inside. There's a SRS airbag there that you need to respect. You should be able to probe the back of each of those terminal pins and see battery voltage without disassembling the connector. WHITE wires in and out. Above that connector, the circuit splits to each of the overhead lighting fixtures plus the overhead console, all still WHITE wires. If there's evidence of moisture in the A-pillar where that connector sits, worry about corrosion in the connector itself. The contacts are 'self-wiping' and may respond to a few disconnect/reconnect cycles to clear minor film corrosion. More than that and you'll be using a real contact cleaner and protectant. DO NOT USE DIELECTRIC GREASE on an unassembled connector.

This is pretty much the complete troubleshooting guide to the power circuit. The overhead console itself can be removed for bench testing each of the switch contacts, using the diagram on page 114. There have been reports of contact failures in the switches, solved with replacement of the console itself. I always suspect moisture intrusion from either the sunroof or the top of the windshield for switch issues. Look for telltale signs of that, and figure out how to solve for those before you plug in a console assembly back up there.

 

[dr bob]

Hi Paul --

This probably deserves its own thread, since the problem you are trying to solve is way different than the OP's problems.

IIRC, my 2013 Touring has configurable settings for the interior lights off-delay. That's the normal delay time after you close the last door, and assuming you don't put the key in the ignitions lock. I'd have to look in the Owner's Manual to be sure.

The lights will stay on with a door open, roof console switch in middle position, for somewhere around ten minutes or more if/when a door is left open .and. the key is out of the ignition lock. This is from a -very- casual observation while cleaning the car with doors open. The car was plugged into a maintainer so no wo rries about draining the battery while I sorta worked on it. I wandered off to do something away from the car, and when I wandered back the interior lights were out.

The actual interior lighting functions are configured/controlled in the MICU, the 'smart' part of the under-dash fuse and relay panel. There is no separate relay or physical adjustment for the functions. A smarter Honda-savvy bidirectional OBD tool will let you test for each door switch position, soft-force the switch positions, and directly soft-force the interior lights on or off.

Often, apparent interior-lights timing problems are triggered by contact issues in the door-closed switches. A handy telltale of one of those switches causing the symptom is a telltale door-open indicator in the gauge cluster when the doors are actually closed.

I swapped in LED interior light bulbs shortly after the car arrived, so have never had any issues with battery drain even when I get a little careless. The kit for all the interior bulbs was something outrageous like $13 on Amazon.

You might want to do some testing to make sure the lights go off with the overhead switch in the off position (forward). If they stay on while driving, overhead switch in the middle regardless of door switch position, I'd be looking for a problem with that slide switch.