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Discussion Starter #1
i have an 07 pilot. had a friend replace some gaskets. battery has been unhooked for about 2 weeks. go to start it up and the green key light comes on. accessories work, fob works. but the ignition will not release the key and the light continues to flash. it does not try to turn over but you can here a relay when you turn it to position 3. attempted to leave the key in the ignition as instructed somewhere that i found.. no luck. the ignition also grabs the key and does not allow it to turn back to zero. it does move freely from position 1 to position 2z the only way to release the key from the ignition is to unhook the battery. is this a key problem, or an immobilizer problem, or something else? im having a lot of trouble finding another instance of this. i did find on here that someone had this issue and it was the battery/alternator, neither of which are the problem in this case. thank you.

ps. i have only the one key/fob.
 

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Charge the battery to begin with.
 

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Immobilizer diagnostics is on p. 22-222 in the FSM. If it does not recognize the key, then the green light would come on for 2 sec and start blinking until the key is turned into off. Is that what you are seeing? If the green light comes on and stays on, then if I read the FSM correctly, then the immobilizer is dead. Correct me if I am wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Immobilizer diagnostics is on p. 22-222 in the FSM. If it does not recognize the key, then the green light would come on for 2 sec and start blinking until the key is turned into off. Is that what you are seeing? If the green light comes on and stays on, then if I read the FSM correctly, then the immobilizer is dead. Correct me if I am wrong.
the green light is blinking as you said, however, it is not possible to turn the key back to the 0 position. the key is able to move in the 1 and 2 positions, but locks, very tightly, when attempting to turn the to 0, or off..

was actually able to locate the valet key. will try with that soon..
 

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There is a device out there called CK-100. It programs the keys and costs less than what the dealer charges. If you end up finding that the immobilizer forgot your keys, then going the CK-100 route could be the cheapest solution.
 

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the green light is blinking as you said, however, it is not possible to turn the key back to the 0 position. the key is able to move in the 1 and 2 positions, but locks, very tightly, when attempting to turn the to 0, or off..

was actually able to locate the valet key. will try with that soon..
Almost sounds like the lock cylinder is jamming? This is a common problem with many miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
found the other key and fob, and the valet key. all with the same results. key is able to move between 1,2, and 3 positions but no start and key does not release. manual override on the top of the column does not release the key either but it does allow it to be shifted into gears.

sounds like it may be the lock cylinder, or the ignition switch despite the immobilization system being triggered. that confuses me though.

if i replace the switch or the cylinder does anything need to be reprogrammed or does the ecu just relay the old coding?
 

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Download the FSM.
 

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found the other key and fob, and the valet key. all with the same results. key is able to move between 1,2, and 3 positions but no start and key does not release. manual override on the top of the column does not release the key either but it does allow it to be shifted into gears.

sounds like it may be the lock cylinder, or the ignition switch despite the immobilization system being triggered. that confuses me though.

if i replace the switch or the cylinder does anything need to be reprogrammed or does the ecu just relay the old coding?
The immobilizer reads the RF chip in your key. If you keep the same key, no reprogram needed. Your problem may be the switch itself, which is separate from the cylinder. Although, the jamming that you describe sounds like worn out wafers in the cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The immobilizer reads the RF chip in your key. If you keep the same key, no reprogram needed. Your problem may be the switch itself, which is separate from the cylinder. Although, the jamming that you describe sounds like worn out wafers in the cylinder.
im gonna take the lock cylinder out and see if thats causing the sticking. im still confused as to why the immobilizer is on, why it forgot all 3 keys programmed to it, and how to relearn them.
 

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No matter what you do, just remember to never lubricate the lock with graphite lube. It eats the moving parts. If you have to lube, use silicon lube. It dries up eventually but helps get plastic parts moving.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
got the lock out, does not appear to be a problem with the cylinder lock, wafers, or switch. dealership said they could recode the immobilizer and keys if i just bring them the cylinder. maybe the battery being disconnected for that long reset it. thanks for all the responses. ill update when i get it resolved.
 
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