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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So my 2006 pilot started having starting problems. I'm not a mechanic but can watch youtube to learn. I replaced the starter and come to find out it is the ignition switch. My question is I can turn the key no problem this is not the issue but when I turn it to start nothing happens. Is this the end piece of the ignition switch that creates the circuit to the fuse box that supplies the power or something in the ignition when turning the key causing this. Or how do I determine what part is the bad part in the ignition switch?

My biggest concern and what I can't do is reprogram or rekey any locks. I have seen videos for replacing the ignition switch and it pretty simple I have also seen a video on how you can remove the lock mechanism of the ignition switch and was thinking worst case I remove the new one and put in the old one to maintain the same keys. So I guess I'm trying to figure out what I can do to avoid that step completely.

Am I crazy

ignition switch replacement:

ignition lock removal:
 

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Am I crazy
I don't think so, but throwing parts at an electrical problem is not a recipe for success, as you've already seen.

Troubleshooting this will require downloading the service manual and working your way through the wiring diagram with a multimeter to determine where the circuit breaks down. Checking your fuses, battery terminals and ground points is a quick, easy way to start, and you might get lucky. If what you're seeing is all the accessory circuits coming on in the second key position, but nothing happening when you turn past that, it's probably either a fuse, wiring, a relay, a connection point, or the ignition switch.

Once you know the answer to that one, you can decide whether the repair is realistic or not.

If this sounds like no fun, you will probably be best served by paying a pro to troubleshoot it for you. If it's a connection or a relay, fixing it won't cost much more. If it's a component (like the ignition switch), you can decide whether you want to do the work yourself or not.
 

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I had a similar issue caused by too many keys on the chain and years of them hanging out of the ign. It caused an arc flash failure on the contact and it would not always start and it also would randomly shut off the car while driving which was scary. The good thing was it was an easy and cheap fix. New contact barrel swapped in and taking the key an putting it on it's own chain without all the house and work keys on it. This part here fails with lots of use. you can swap it and it doesn't mess with the keys or programming etc. you can pull the ignition out and look at it, it will be all burned up if bad, The part that burns out first is the starter part as the most juice goes through it when activated.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Potentially an immobilizer issue? If you need to reprogram the immobilizer chip in your keys to match a new immobilizer ring in your ignition, this might help...

honda easy key maker - Buy honda easy key maker with free shipping on AliExpress

 

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Potentially an immobilizer issue? If you need to reprogram the immobilizer chip in your keys to match a new immobilizer ring in your ignition, this might help...

honda easy key maker - Buy honda easy key maker with free shipping on AliExpress

the immobilizer lives in a different part of the ignition that bit is purely mechanical.
 

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So my 2006 pilot started having starting problems. I'm not a mechanic but can watch youtube to learn. I replaced the starter and come to find out it is the ignition switch. My question is I can turn the key no problem this is not the issue but when I turn it to start nothing happens. Is this the end piece of the ignition switch that creates the circuit to the fuse box that supplies the power or something in the ignition when turning the key causing this. Or how do I determine what part is the bad part in the ignition switch?

My biggest concern and what I can't do is reprogram or rekey any locks. I have seen videos for replacing the ignition switch and it pretty simple I have also seen a video on how you can remove the lock mechanism of the ignition switch and was thinking worst case I remove the new one and put in the old one to maintain the same keys. So I guess I'm trying to figure out what I can do to avoid that step completely.

Am I crazy

ignition switch replacement:

ignition lock removal:
I have been there on my 2003. In my case, the lock cylinder was jammed, which is a common problem on high mileage Hondas. Sounds like you have an issue with the switch mechanism. Yes, the switch lives on the end of the lock assembly. That is, the left end, as you sit in the Pilot. You can replace this without a problem, it's just a simple electrical switch, not tied into the immobilizer. The immobilizer sensor is on the other end of the assembly, and is programmed to link to the RFID chip in your ignition key. You must be careful not to damage this sensor or its wires when you work on the ignition. You should be able to replace the actual switch without any impact to the immobilizer, as long as you do not damage the sensor or wires.
 

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So my 2006 pilot started having starting problems. I'm not a mechanic but can watch youtube to learn. I replaced the starter and come to find out it is the ignition switch. My question is I can turn the key no problem this is not the issue but when I turn it to start nothing happens. Is this the end piece of the ignition switch that creates the circuit to the fuse box that supplies the power or something in the ignition when turning the key causing this. Or how do I determine what part is the bad part in the ignition switch?

My biggest concern and what I can't do is reprogram or rekey any locks. I have seen videos for replacing the ignition switch and it pretty simple I have also seen a video on how you can remove the lock mechanism of the ignition switch and was thinking worst case I remove the new one and put in the old one to maintain the same keys. So I guess I'm trying to figure out what I can do to avoid that step completely.

Am I crazy

ignition switch replacement:

ignition lock removal:
The guy in the first video is WRONG! He claims that the only fix for a jammed lock cylinder is complete replacement. NOT TRUE. If you carefully remove the actual cylinder from it's housing, and insert the key, the worn out wafers that are jamming will stick out slightly. Then just pull them out and throw them away. The original key will now work perfectly. It is usually just one or two wafers nearest the key entry point, and they are worn out by people who use heavy keychains that pull down on the key over many miles of vibration. I did this repair over 3 years ago on my 2003, and it's still working perfectly.

There is a youtube video by a gal in a blue shirt that shows this procedure clearly. the title is 2003 Honda Odyssey ignition sticking, and the gal who posted it is "I fix things". She does a great job showing you how to save your ignition assembly!
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Did she take out all the wafers? tl:dw
 

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So now she has an ignition anyone can stick a screwdriver in an turn on. Ok! She saved $700. 😁
Well...not really, NG. She removed 2 pairs of wafers. I seem to recall that there are 10 pairs, that is, 5 pair inserted from the top, and 5 pair opposite. When I pulled the bad wafers on my 2003, I only had to remove one pair. The cylinder is still locked by the remaining wafers, and the immobilizer circuit has been untouched, so it's not any easier to steal the car. Three years later, my 2003 still works perfectly. (correction: there are 6 pairs of wafers, not 10)

The benefit of this trick is: You don't have to buy a new locking assembly and new keys, you don't have to pay the dealer or a locksmith to reprogram the ECU to recognize a new RFID chip in your new key, and you don't wind up with one key for the ignition and another for the doors.

If you really don't like the idea of pulling a couple of wafers, and want to install a bunch of new parts, that's certainly anyone's choice. I am still impressed by her video, which clearly shows the whole process needed to fix it yourself for cheap. Anyone who wants to understand just what is in that ignition assembly would do well to watch this video.
 

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Well...not really, NG. She removed 2 pairs of wafers. I seem to recall that there are 10 pairs, that is, 5 pair inserted from the top, and 5 pair opposite. When I pulled the bad wafers on my 2003, I only had to remove one pair. The cylinder is still locked by the remaining wafers, and the immobilizer circuit has been untouched, so it's not any easier to steal the car. Three years later, my 2003 still works perfectly.

The benefit of this trick is: You don't have to buy a new locking assembly and new keys, you don't have to pay the dealer or a locksmith to reprogram the ECU to recognize a new RFID chip in your new key, and you don't wind up with one key for the ignition and another for the doors.

If you really don't like the idea of pulling a couple of wafers, and want to install a bunch of new parts, that's certainly anyone's choice. I am still impressed by her video, which clearly shows the whole process needed to fix it yourself for cheap. Anyone who wants to understand just what is in that ignition assembly would do well to watch this video.
Ok,
I was under the impression that she had removed them all.
Thanks for clarifying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So I bought the entire Ignition Switch from Rockauto.com but was able to only replace the electrical part of the switch and fix the issue. Thanks for everyone's support and help here.

I will say the electric connector connects to the BACK of the fuse box in the driver side and was a huge pain to get to. Also removing and reinstalling the screws on the ignition was a pain and really requires a perfect size screw driver.
 

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So I bought the entire Ignition Switch from Rockauto.com but was able to only replace the electrical part of the switch and fix the issue. Thanks for everyone's support and help here.

I will say the electric connector connects to the BACK of the fuse box in the driver side and was a huge pain to get to. Also removing and reinstalling the screws on the ignition was a pain and really requires a perfect size screw driver.
Glad you solved it.
147381


Electrical part only, so no messing with wafers or the immobilizer system? For all your efforts, you should still consider you got off relatively easy. What do you suppose the cause of the electrical problem was?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Electrical part only, so no messing with wafers or the immobilizer system? For all your efforts, you should still consider you got off relatively easy. What do you suppose the cause of the electrical problem was?
So honestly no idea but I'm guessing it was a mechanical failure issue inside the electrical part. That part has to turn in order to make the connection so my guess is there was something there failing. I'm honestly not sure as I have very limited ability to troubleshoot electrical issues of any sort. One thing I wish I knew more about.

My son just started learning how to drive here in September and he is actually really rough with all the starters and we have been telling him this. Then all of a sudden bam this thing goes bad.
 

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My son just started learning how to drive here in September and he is actually really rough with all the starters and we have been telling him this. Then all of a sudden bam this thing goes bad.
It's when the kids have to deal with the repair bills and hassles that they start to care more. Ask me how I know. :)
 
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