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I just replaced the battery in my ignition key for my 2006 Pilot. It still does not work, even though I have tested the new battery and it is just fine. Is there something I am missing? A special way to re-set?
 

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While it could be a bad transmitter or damaged from impact, you should try tweaking the battery contacts. The negative battery contact is usually fine as it contacts the battery directly, however, the positive contact is made by metal clips/ribbons on the side of the battery which come out and touch a small rectangular pad on the small circuit board. This contact is your main concern. Clean it with a pencil eraser and then with a q-tip with isopropyl alcohol (better yet contact cleaner if you have it). Then with a pair of tweezers or small needle nose pliers slighty bend the metal pins to yield a better contact with the pad. Sometimes when people pull these things apart those little metal ribbons can get bent slightly enough to break the contact. On mine wear an tear yielded little dimples on the contact pad which essentially opened the circuit. With only 3 volts, it doesnt take much.
 

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On mine wear an tear yielded little dimples on the contact pad which essentially opened the circuit. With only 3 volts, it doesnt take much.
my transponder also quit working. thinking it was a dead battery, i bought a new cr1616 and opened it up. i swapped out the battery but still get no response. the little red LED does not light up when i push the buttons. i checked and cleaned the contact points, and noticed that there are "dimples" on the positive side contact pad, on the circuit board. would these dimples be enough to open the circuit? if so, how can i go about repairing the pad?
 

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With a pair of pliers you can slightly bend the tab so that it positions to a fresh spot on the pad (just left or right of the dimples) or just bend the tab downwards towards the contact to put more pressure on the dimples. Make sure they are nice and clean and finish off with some alcohol or preferably contact cleaner to keep the contacts from corroding.
 

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I just replaced the battery in my ignition key for my 2006 Pilot. It still does not work, even though I have tested the new battery and it is just fine. Is there something I am missing? A special way to re-set?
Sorry this isn't an answer, but I have the same issue. Two key fobs, fresh new batteries in each and nothing. One just quit on its own, good one day, bad the next. Cleaned all contacts, brushed out pocket-lint, inspected all areas where the battery makes contact and all looks good, reinserted the module in the key and no lights light at all, neither fob has suffered any damage, but no response from the car either. Is there something I've missed in doing this? Or, could I have two failed modules on my hands? Is it necessary to do anything other than putting in a new CR1616 battery to make it work? I have found a factory replacement module in my cart on Amazon, it is listed as OEM to fit my '06 Pilot, which needs to be programmed but they say simple instructions are included with it. Our nearest Honda dealer is a 100 mile round-trip for us, so any help here would be much appreciated.
 

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If with fresh batteries the little red light doesn't light up on the fobs, then you'll probably have to get replacement fobs, like these for example, and reprogram them together. Here's how:


Have all remotes for the vehicle on hand. Make sure all the doors and rear hatch/trunk are closed during programming. Only need to use 1remote to get into program mode but all remotes must be programmed during the same session. Each step must be completed within 5 seconds.

1. Sit in the car with all doors/trunk tightly closed

2. Turn the key to the ON position, marked by "II" on the ignition bezel so the dash lights come on, then within 5 seconds press the "Lock" button on the remote for 1 second or so and release the button.

3. Turn the key to the OFF position, marked by "I" on the ignition bezel - dash lights go off.

4. Repeat steps 2 & 3 three more times (A total of 4 times) -- each step must be done within 5 seconds of the previous step.

5. Upon the 4th turning of the key to "ON", press the lock button on one remote, the locks will make a cycling sound (clunk), locks will NOT lock or unlock at this point, they will just make a noise. The system is now in programming mode. Do not turn key off.

6. Within 5 seconds of entering programming mode and within 5 seconds of each other, press the lock button ON EACH remote you are programming, for a second or so and release. This step needs to be completed within 10 seconds. Each time a remote button is pushed, the locks should cycle. Up to 3 remotes can be programmed.

7. Turn ignition completely off and remove the key. Step out of car and close door. The remotes should be programmed and should work. If you have a trunk/hatch release, the button for this feature needs to be held for a few seconds before the trunk/hatch will "pop".


Here's a video that might also help.


Keep trying, it eventually does work, if your fobs are good. In the end, what finally worked for me when using the method that goes from II to 0 didn't work: Going from II to I is what did it for me.
 

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Sure, the only reason I suggested either the fob or the uncut key with the fob in it, is that I've noticed the latter is often less expensive, for some reason. I just opened it, kept the fob, and discarded the key.

When the time comes to program it, remember that all your fobs have to be programmed at the same time. Just follow the instructions I posted above, and let us know how it goes. Good luck!
 

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I'll be sure to do that. And thanks for the help. I'll let you all know how it goes, I currently have three remote key fobs and two are not working right now. The third one doesn't necessarily need the remote, it's just a spare key for emergencies.

Much appreciate the quick tips on this, from a newbie member of the group. (y)
 
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