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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All,

I tried moving a Christmas tree last year with the stock rails and crossbars and since the rails are 100% flush to the roof, it was not secure. How do you prevent twine or tie down straps from shifting toward the center of the crossbar when there is no anchor point or tie-down point? Is there something aftermarket I should get?

In the past, all my roof racks have had rails with a gap under them or at least a hole in each tower of the crossbars I could tie a rope/twine to. These seem designed to be useless without expensive attachments.

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Use twine. Tie to tree, roll down windows, feed twine through open windows, roll up windows, tie other end of twine to tree.
 

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It isn't even Advent yet and your tree will be dried out long before Christmas morning, but I assume you're planning ahead. ?

Ok, not a problem on my 1st generation roof rack, but they must have hired Grinch engineers for subsequent builds.

So yeah, unless you add on tie downs, the suggestion of running twine through the inside of the car is the way to do it, like we did in days of old before roof racks. However, I wouldn't suggest running the twine into the windows, especially if you have fragile window deflector vent shades. Open the door and run the twine in, tying it under the ceiling, then close the doors.

And don't absentmindedly drive into your garage forgetting the tree up on the car roof. Ask me how I know. ?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
HAHA great responses all!

I had the exact same question when we got our '16 Touring. I ended mounting some tie downs.
Where do I get these? Do they fit with the stock honda crossbars or are yours somehow adjustable?

Nevermind, found your post!! https://www.piloteers.org/threads/roof-rack-crossbar-tie-down-loops.121906/

It isn't even Advent yet and your tree will be dried out long before Christmas morning, but I assume you're planning ahead. ?
...
However, I wouldn't suggest running the twine into the windows, especially if you have fragile window deflector vent shades. Open the door and run the twine in, tying it under the ceiling, then close the doors.

And don't absentmindedly drive into your garage forgetting the tree up on the car roof. Ask me how I know. ?
I don't want a repeat of last year. Prepare, prepare, and prepare again!
Thanks for the good idea on saving the windows!
My pilot doesn't even fit in my garage without a tree haha!
 

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I saw @YF6H9GKNW 's thread about the custom fabricated tie-downs. Looks good and solid, but not sure I need something permanent like that and I don't really like the look of the tabs sticking out.

Personally I'm going to get a pair of Thule SpeedLink mounts:






The straps are actually rubber coated stainless steel, so they should be plenty solid.

On the bolt I'm going to attach a stainless steel "Eye Nut"



Since these can install really quickly, I'll just keep them in the trunk and use as needed. This gives a lot of flexibility IMO. If I just want a "end stop" to keep stuff from sliding off the side of the rack when I lash it down, I can use them as such. If I need a place to hook a tie-down strap, the eye nut serves its purpose. If not in use, they're removed and don't look unsightly and cause any extra wind resistance.

I'm going to get an additional pair too so that I can also use them on my bike rack for a quick attachment instead of the Thule factory clamps that are similar, but attach with 2-bolts instead of the strap so they are not very quick to install and remove.
 

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I didn't get the adapters yet but I confirmed with Thule that they are M6 bolts. Probably a bit small, so I'm planning to push them out and install some larger ones probably closer to 1/4".
 

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I didn't get the adapters but I confirmed with Thule that they are M6 bolts. Probably a bit small, so I'm planning to push them out and install some larger ones probably closer to 1/4".
I saw those, but they look like they are form-fit specifically for the Yakima cross bars and not sure if they would fit the Pilot OEM bars. Plus I didn't like that they would end up with a cantilevered pull due to the bolt hole being offset on the end and not in the middle.

Yakima does have a "universal mightymount" that is similar to the Thule one, but I did see quite a few reviews where people complained that these broke when used in their intended application (IE, as mounts for rack accessories like kayak holders, ski holders, bike mounts, etc) and they had both equipment and vehicle damages as a result. Photos I saw posted on Amazon showed very thin plastic that fatigued and cracked. Because of this and because I have no direct experience with Yakima, I would personally not trust their "plastic" products.

On the otherhand, I have personally used Thule racks and accessories for over 2 decades without any issues, so I trust Thule parts to be durable.
 

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Another option that looks even better and more versatile that I think I'm going to use instead of the SpeedLinks is the Thule #819 Portage canoe transport kit:

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Again, very quick to mount and remove, great end-stops for hauling anything large, can install an eyebolt through the hole in the top if needed, and if hauling a ladder will grab that just like a canoe. Not a lot more expensive than 4x the SpeedLinks, but probably a much more useful solution. Actually I'm still going to get the speedlinks too so I can still attach and remove my bike rack quickly. The screw on clamps that it came from the factory take way too long.
 

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I saw those MightyMounts... they were the ones with quite a few reviews of plastic cracking and failure. Be careful with them.

I ordered the Thule 819 Portage Canoe Pack, it should arrive in about a week, I'll report back once received.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I saw those MightyMounts... they were the ones with quite a few reviews of plastic cracking and failure. Be careful with them.

I ordered the Thule 819 Portage Canoe Pack, it should arrive in about a week, I'll report back once received.
I plan to use them only to create horizontal stationary positions to wrap rope/twine/tie-downs around, not to mount anything to the fitting on top. I chose them because they seem very easy to put on and off for the rare occasions that I need them. The portage kit does look like a superior design for double the price.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Ok so I just got the Universal Yakima MightyMounts! They are just what I was hoping for and for much less than the Thule or other solutions. They come with a couple different adaptors and whatnot for different sized cross bars and different Yakima rack products. I installed them using the smaller of the two lower brackets they provide and I didn't use any of the Yakima rack adapters. All I am interested in using them for is creating firm tie-down anchors for ratchet straps, twine, and rope, and I think they will work great for that!

I tried installing them right-side up and upside-down with no difficulties. Here's a pic of them installed upside down. Its not gonna move anywhere and gives me a nice place to tie onto.

Installed.jpg

I'm not planning to leave them on all the time, so after test fitting I assembled all four, tossed them in a ziplock, and stowed them in one of the corners of the trunk.

In a bag.jpg In the Trunk.jpg
 

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I ended up getting the Thule canoe carrier set and finally had a chance to try them out with a trip to Homer's to get a bit of lumber for a project:

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I like that they are solid as a rock - the screws for the clamps are all M6 stainless steel, all of the stressed plastic components are reinforced with riveted stainless steel plate, and all of the contact surfaces are rubber padded to prevent scratching and give a better grab.

I can install and remove them in about 30 seconds each. They're very easy to use. One end has a quick-release pivot at the screw so it only takes a minimal amount of effort to install, and there are no loose metal parts or sharp ends that dangle during installation and removal to risk scratching the vehicle.

They work great as load stops and a solid place to wrap lashing around.

I'm going to also get a set of some nylon soft-loops that I can wrap around the the cross-bars outside of these so that when I use either cam or ratchet straps I have something to hook onto that won't "wander" towards the center of the vehicle.

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Cheers
 
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