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Okay... before I go sinking any money into products to get road Tar and Dead Bugs off, I thought I'd ask to see what I should get.

I did buy some dead bug spray (can't remember the name - its bright green though) but, I'll just hold off on using it again until I get feedback on product recommendations.

My real annoyance is the road tar. Never noticed it before but, I seem to have these little dots and streaks of road tar. Not good. What would you recommend that I use to get this off?
 

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In the automotive section of Walmart/Target or PepBoys there are sponge things covered in a white mesh. They are very soft, but the mesh makes it very effective as a non-scratching scrubbing tool. Cheap too. Can use in combo with Mean Green...etc.



Good luck.


Dallas
 

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Soap and water first. If that doesn't work, use Bug'n'tar remover - most brands have it. Turtle Wax is OK, 3M is better but harder to find. BnT will remove wax, so you'll have to re-wax afterward.

Claybar will also work well, but it's more work :) I usually Bug'n'tar if it's low down on the body; if it's in a visible place (e.g. the hood) then I claybar, since I don't like to use harsh or abrasive cleaners on the most visible parts of the car.
 

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Bugs

What about old nylons for the bugs ?? I've also noticed that if you have a good coat of wax or other surface protector on the vehicle the bugs just come off with the normal wash water and soap with no extra effort or cleaners required.
 

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copperpoppy:

I have tried wet-fabric softener sheets after reading about them on this or MDX form. They seem to work great. I think a base coat of Zaino also helped.

KE
 

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I forget whose brand I have, I thought it was Turtle Wax, but it is a blue gel in a clear bottle. It has a citrus smell to it and works awesome. (Yes, I'm sorry I used the word awesome on this site.) Anyway, you put a little on with either an applicator or soft terry cloth, I use the cloth. The come back and wipe it off. You can use a second coat if you need it. Plus you usually don't have to scrub and hurt the clear coat.
 

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bug & tar cleaner

banningjr:

Was it Blue Magic?
Worked ok, required multiple coats for sap.
Used Zaino Z-7 wash straight w/claybar for sap on CRV.
Plenty of rub required.
 

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Making me go check aren't you? Yep, It is Blue Magic. The only time I have trouble is if I let tar get on and REALLY sit. If it is pretty think I usually hit it with my finger nail just to knock off the chunk before I put the cleaner over it. I like it though, it seems to do the job with (for me) minimal effort.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
WHAT is Claybar?

TheWorm said:
Claybar will also work well, but it's more work :)
Color me stupid but, WHAT is claybar? I've read it a couple times on the forum for stripping off paint or something but, what is it? I envision this huge wad of clay. Yeech!
 

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A family member washed the Pilot this weekend (as a favor). This morning I discovered this melted gum gooey-ness stuck on the doors and determined that it is road tar. This time of the year, the highway dept starts resurfacing the roads and the Mrs brought home the evidence. I'm always afraid to hurt the finish trying to remove it.
136125

Yes, I resurrected the oldest Thread I could find, 😁 .
 

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The previous post about not letting it sit is important. Take care of it as soon as possible. It won't get better with age.

Orange solvents will work fine for tar. Anything petroleum-based (kerosene to WD-40) will do the job. Avoid scrubbing. Wipe gently with a disposable clean soft cotton towel and be patient - let the solvent do the work. About the only way you can damage the finish that way is by accidentally setting your solvent on fire.

Depending on your standards, when you're done either just wash and wax (for normal people), or do a clearcoat swirl remover step before you wax (for OCD-afflicted home detailers). Either way, from 5 feet away, you won't be able to tell the difference.
 

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The previous post about not letting it sit is important. Take care of it as soon as possible. It won't get better with age.

Orange solvents will work fine for tar. Anything petroleum-based (kerosene to WD-40) will do the job. Avoid scrubbing. Wipe gently with a disposable clean soft cotton towel and be patient - let the solvent do the work. About the only way you can damage the finish that way is by accidentally setting your solvent on fire.

Depending on your standards, when you're done either just wash and wax (for normal people), or do a clearcoat swirl remover step before you wax (for OCD-afflicted home detailers). Either way, from 5 feet away, you won't be able to tell the difference.
The wife says we got the Orange stuff somewhere. Hopefully I can find it. I know I got cans of WD-40. Thanks for the tips. Will get a picture after cleaned.
 

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The wife says we got the Orange stuff somewhere. Hopefully I can find it. I know I got cans of WD-40. Thanks for the tips. Will get a picture after cleaned.
Finally got around to cleaning the road tar off. This stuff worked well with little effort. Just give it time to soak in.
136334
136335
 

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Oh boy,
I just got the tar off my car and the city decided to add another layer of asphalt to our street. Spreading asphalt over tar. The tar will be bleeding through for weeks in the heat. 😑
136357
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Goo gone works great. Make sure you wash after using. Adding a good coat of wax will help it come off easier. The goo gone will more than likely break down the wax
Yes, I took off the goo gone quickly with Dawn liquid/water, then rinsed thoroughly. I haven't waxed, but it looks like the finish is unharmed. Ty for the reply. Trying to resurrect a 17 year old thread : )
 

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A dual-action polisher makes putting wax on fast and easy. There's a cheap one at Harbor Freight, a real tool from Porter-Cable, and plenty in between.

Within reason, the pads are more important than the machine that turns them. A "soft" that you only use for wax will last a long time. Doing a pass with a good swirl remover before the wax (on a "medium" pad) only takes about 30 minutes on a Pilot, and will make a visible difference on the big panels.

I think that's the real advantage of a polisher - you can do more with less effort and get better results than putting wax on by hand will ever accomplish.

I like the Porter-Cable tool, but I find the Harbor Freight pads are fine for me.
 
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