[pilot45]

I need to check the ATF level after doing a 4x drain and flush. But I have an S-VCM installed which blocks the signal to turn the fan on based on coolant temperature. I'd disconnect it to check the ATF level, but it's a PITA to get to the connectors, and knowing my luck I'd break something anyway.

I have to put the car on ramps to get close to level because my driveway and street are sloped, so it's a production just to check the transmission fluid. But if I knew that the fan usually turns on at 2 minutes or 5 minutes or 10 minutes of idle it would be really helpful. I had it idle for 13 minutes, and I even kept it at 3000 RPM a few times trying to get the fan to kick on until I realized the S-VCM was interfering (confirmed via email with seller).

FWIW, I took out a gallon of ATF and put in a little more than a gallon because after 13 minutes the fluid was just at the lower dot. The very first D&F, I only got 3.7ish quarts out. The following 3 times, it was all about a gallon. I have no idea how that works.

I don't know what kind of magic they have in this transmission that makes the reading only meaningful after the fan comes on once (but not twice) and only for 60-90 seconds after you shut the engine off. Seems like a bug and not a feature.

 

[PLT383]

The efans on/off are most likely temp, not time, controlled. G3 efans are triggered by a temp sensor in the cold radiator tank. Make sure HVAC is OFF.

 

[pilot45]

The efans on/off are most likely temp, not time, controlled. G3 efans are triggered by a temp sensor in the cold radiator tank. Make sure HVAC is OFF.

Yes, I get that. Just trying to get a sense of roughly how long I should expect to wait if I don't have the fans to tell me when the engine is warmed up.

I suppose I could just look at the temp gauge on the dash and add a minute or so after it tops out (since the S-VCM artificially limits the temp readings).

 

[Arthur36]

I need to check the ATF level after doing a 4x drain and flush. But I have an S-VCM installed which blocks the signal to turn the fan on based on coolant temperature. I'd disconnect it to check the ATF level, but it's a PITA to get to the connectors, and knowing my luck I'd break something anyway.

I have to put the car on ramps to get close to level because my driveway and street are sloped, so it's a production just to check the transmission fluid. But if I knew that the fan usually turns on at 2 minutes or 5 minutes or 10 minutes of idle it would be really helpful. I had it idle for 13 minutes, and I even kept it at 3000 RPM a few times trying to get the fan to kick on until I realized the S-VCM was interfering (confirmed via email with seller).

FWIW, I took out a gallon of ATF and put in a little more than a gallon because after 13 minutes the fluid was just at the lower dot. The very first D&F, I only got 3.7ish quarts out. The following 3 times, it was all about a gallon. I have no idea how that works.

I don't know what kind of magic they have in this transmission that makes the reading only meaningful after the fan comes on once (but not twice) and only for 60-90 seconds after you shut the engine off. Seems like a bug and not a feature.

You do not have to disconnect any conectors. Just disconnect S-VCM power cable from the battery or remove fuse if your S-VCM has one. And definitely let us know if fan turns on quicker. You said you had confirmed with the seller that S-VCM was interfering with fan operation. If that is true then I am really disapointed. I was asure by members on this forum that S-VCM does not affect fan operation. If it does (engine runs hotter) then S-VCM is overrated.

 

[PLT383]

The factory temp needle is rigged and stops moving a about 160F actual ECT…..with or without a VCM disabler. Most factory gauges are rigged……keeps owners out of service writers hair.👌

 

[pilot45]

You do not have to disconnect any conectors. Just disconnect S-VCM power cable from the battery or remove fuse if your S-VCM has one. And definitely let us know if fan turns on quicker. You said you had confirmed with the seller that S-VCM was interfering with fan operation. If that is true then I am really disapointed. I was asure by members on this forum that S-VCM does not affect fan operation. If it does (engine runs hotter) then S-VCM is overrated.

This is part of what he wrote:
"Although the device moderates ECT#1 signal, other ECT sensor(s) will trigger the fan to kick in when necessary."

I doubt it makes the engine run hotter. It's just that checking the ATF level has a very specific procedure that requires you to sit there and wait for the fan to turn on when the engine is warmed up. If the coolant temp sensor is always telling the car that the car hasn't warmed up yet (because S-VCM, VCMuzzler, etc are hijacking that signal), then that method of knowing when the engine is warmed up isn't valid anymore.

And the fans do still run. After changing the ATF, I took the car on a short trip and when I came back home both fans were running (with the A/C off).

I'll have to check into whether disconnecting the S-VCM power cable or fuse restores operation of the coolant temp sensor, or kills the coolant temp signal completely.

 

[PLT383]

In this pic, ECT (CT1) has obviously reached within the normal range.......but has the tranny (TFT)????, who knows. FWIW, the factory coolant temp needle starts moving at about 130F actual and stops at about 160F actual (no disabler).

 

[PLT383]

From post #6:

"After changing the ATF, I took the car on a short trip and when I came back home both fans were running (with the A/C off)".

While driving (vehicle moving, a/c off), I've never noticed ECT above about 196F due to the fact that even slow in-town driving will move enough air thru the radiator to maintain 196F or less, efans not running even in triple digit ambient. Obviously a difference between '11 Pilot and a '17 Ridgeline.

When stopped, no a/c, no air circulation thru rad, CT2 (cold rad tank) will quickly reach 205F which turns on the efans. My point is, when you came back home, no a/c, you said efans were already running so I'm thinking CT2 was 205F arriving back home, maybe even higher.🤷‍♂️ I would think that would be plenty hot for the tranny to get a good fluid level reading but I don't know since I don't think you monitor TFT. Pre tranny cooler install, I observed 210F plus TFT.....well north of ECT. Post cooler install, about 170F max.

I think I have rambled on and still not answered the question. sorry.🤦‍♂️

 

[Nail Grease]

Obviously there is no consistent answer to the OPs question. For someone living in the frozen tundra, it would take longer for their engine temperature to rise to 206*F than mine in the deep south.

S-VCM does not prevent cooling fans from kicking on. S-VCM may make diagnosing a cooling system problem more difficult, but will not be the reason. Simply disconnect it when troubleshooting the cooling system. Be sure only reconnect S-VCM when the engine is cool.

 

[pilot45]

In this pic, ECT (CT1) has obviously reached within the normal range.......but has the tranny (TFT)????, who knows. FWIW, the factory coolant temp needle starts moving at about 130F actual and stops at about 160F actual (no disabler).

That's helpful information. Worst case, I wait until the temp gauge maxes out at idle, add a minute or two (to compensate for the S-VCM putting an artificial upper limit on the coolant temp reading), and shut the engine down to check the ATF level.

I asked the seller of the S-VCM if removing the inline fuse would restore the stock coolant sensor functionality and he said:
"Just pull the inline fuse and no need to unplug/disconnect the device."

So it sounds like I can just yank the fuse, go through the normal ATF level check, and reinstall the fuse. I'll try that.

 

[PLT383]

Driving the vehicle is what heats the tranny fluid fastest so I would do as you did in post #6......drive it, park it, wait 60-90 seconds to pull the stick, wipe clean and check level, being careful to not touch any hot parts. Also, it will heat up much quicker in 90* ambient vs 30* ambient temp. The S-VCM has no affect on actual ECT or TFT, connected or not.

The S-VCM will have only the very slightest affect on where the factory temp needle points. The biggest temp difference the S-VCM will make is the displayed temp on a code reader, but again, that code reader number is a displayed number, not an actual ECT number. The only thing that will change actual ECT is a t-stat with a different open number along with different driving conditions.

 

[Jack Vogt]

If my climate control isn’t on, the e fans never come on. Is there a problem or does the engine just not get very hot….

 

[Nail Grease]

If my climate control isn’t on, the e fans never come on. Is there a problem or does the engine just not get very hot….

Short drives in cool climates, with air moving through the radiator, maybe not. If you know the engine is warmed to operating temperature and it’s left idling, the fans should come on at 206F. It be good to check with an OBD II scanner and see.

 

[cintocrunch]

If my climate control isn’t on, the e fans never come on. Is there a problem or does the engine just not get very hot….

Same here, only during really hot days or a lot of stop and go will I hear them kick on if the AC is off. We live in an area where you are generally moving and there are a lot of 40+ mph speed limits so airflow is plentiful.

 

[PLT383]

Just did a short trip to the supermarket, ambient temp 54F. Actual ECT quickly reached 181F (Trail Tech), code reader displayed temp stopped at 163F (SG II). Displayed code reader temp will float 161F-163F with the VCM disabler connected while actual coolant temp will float 180F-196F (vehicle moving or efans on) depending on driving conditions. Like others have said, I observe efans never turning on, even in triple digit ambient temps UNLESS I intentionally stop (driveway/garage), turn a/c off and wait for several minutes. Eventually efans turn on (at low speed) at 205F. Efans ON will rapidly drop actual ECT to 190F.

 

[undivide]

checking the fluid level in the transmission requires the transmission to be HOT but still needs to be checked within a certain time period after engine is turned off. I think its between 60 and 90 seconds AFTER? I usually drain and fill, getting the fill as close to the amount I think came out then take it for a drive. best case scenario its at a point where I don't need to add any more or if I do I'm only adding 1/2 quart or LESS. if you overfilled then you're rushing or not paying attention or doing the operation on an uneven surface. I would never let a vehicle just sit around and idle needlessly until the fans come on, that's just wasting gas

 

[pilot45]

checking the fluid level in the transmission requires the transmission to be HOT but still needs to be checked within a certain time period after engine is turned off. I think its between 60 and 90 seconds AFTER? I usually drain and fill, getting the fill as close to the amount I think came out then take it for a drive. best case scenario its at a point where I don't need to add any more or if I do I'm only adding 1/2 quart or LESS. if you overfilled then you're rushing or not paying attention or doing the operation on an uneven surface. I would never let a vehicle just sit around and idle needlessly until the fans come on, that's just wasting gas

 

[undivide]

yeah those are CYA instructions for the service techs. I just drive it around my neighborhood low speed style (10mph maybe) for a couple minutes. Being the transmission and engine are coupled so close together the engine heat will transfer over to slowly heat up the transmission & its fluid. I just like to get a feel for how the transmission shifts in and out of 1st gear before doing a final level check. Not recommending one way or the other being better or worse, they both get the job done. The timing is most critical for level checking, follow the 60 to 90 seconds time frame after shut off

 

[PLT383]

Just combined the two methods......started cold (TFT 56F), let motor idle just long enough for idle to drop to 750 rpm, maybe a minute. TFT rose to 64F, shut motor off, checked fluid level within the 60-90 second window. Fluid level between O and T of HOT. Close enough.

 

[Nail Grease]

Or eventually after a few years of doing ATF D&Fs, you can do what I do and not sweat it. When the vehicle has been sitting a while, like overnight... On level ground no front jack or ramps, drain the transmission. Jack up the left rear (drivers side) to drain an additional .3 quarts (15 min). Then pour in 3.8 quarts of full synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF and close the hood.