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Sorry to hear about your misfortune and frustrations... I can certainly relate with that feeling.

Can I make you feel better? My uncle just bought a Freighliner based Class C motorhome. Somehow he hooked something up backward and tied the negative side of the truck and the coach to the positive side of the battery. Nothing sparked and he didn't realize it at the time until he went to the barn a couple days later and smelled electrical burning. Now 90% of the coach doesn't work when tied properly and the truck won't start. He couldn't even get it out of the barn right now to burn it even if he wanted to! (which he does). He paid well over $100k for it used.

Hopefully that makes you feel a little bit better since you didn't destroy something that expensive and your problems are all solvable at this point. I'd probably just grab new bolts or even a new tensioner kit if the bolt doesn't surface shortly, just move on. You'll find it on the garage floor a couple days after you finish everything.
 

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Sorry to hear about your misfortune and frustrations... I can certainly relate with that feeling.

Can I make you feel better? My uncle just bought a Freighliner based Class C motorhome. Somehow he hooked something up backward and tied the negative side of the truck and the coach to the positive side of the battery. Nothing sparked and he didn't realize it at the time until he went to the barn a couple days later and smelled electrical burning. Now 90% of the coach doesn't work when tied properly and the truck won't start. He couldn't even get it out of the barn right now to burn it even if he wanted to! (which he does). He paid well over $100k for it used.
馃槺
Oh man!
Hopefully a fuse popped so the damage is limited.
 

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Found an original assembly bolt wedged in the lower control arm bushing bracket. Crazy stuff happens. I'm maybe 50% on dropping the second bolt to find the first. That's 50% on finding the second bolt. Way lower on finding the first one that way.

Inspection mirror, inspection camera on the snake, even just holding the cellphone camera in some of the blind areas and rotating it around while recording. You'll find it.
 

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2013 Pilot EX-L, 182k. 1996 Land Cruiser. 1996 Accord Super Wagon SS Chick Gitter. 2004 CBR600rr.
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Discussion Starter #24
Well...well...well.....lookie here.. ...
The mystery is solved apparently.....
I had the power steering pump flopped off to the side down towards the bottom. When I moved it up to the top to get it out of the way looking for this damn bolt, apparently the bolt must have been caught in the power steering pump and when I flopped up to the top it let loose and landed on top of the valve train..... not exactly where I was looking. 馃檭
20210405_124310.jpg
 

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Well...well...well.....lookie here.. ...
The mystery is solved apparently.....
I had the power steering pump flopped off to the side down towards the bottom. When I moved it up to the top to get it out of the way looking for this damn bolt, apparently the bolt must have been caught in the power steering pump and when I flopped up to the top it let loose and landed on top of the valve train..... not exactly where I was looking. 馃檭 View attachment 147377
Lol. Glad you found it.
I was thinking it might help if he move the power steering pump out of the way. I'm sure it was there temporarily to close the hood.
 
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Discussion Starter #26
Wow that stinks about the motor home! Hope it gets sorted out because electrical stuff baffles me worse than anything.

Now I have tensioner back on and had everything lined up but I might be off a tooth on the back cam. Have to play around and see. Hope not. I would really like to move on to actual "forward prgress".
20210405_132920.jpg
 

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Wow that stinks about the motor home! Hope it gets sorted out because electrical stuff baffles me worse than anything.

Now I have tensioner back on and had everything lined up but I might be off a tooth on the back cam. Have to play around and see. Hope not. I would really like to move on to actual "forward prgress". View attachment 147379
Looks good!
Clean too!
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thx. Timing belt stuff is all lined up and tight. Now hopefully just breeze thru the rest of re-assembly with no more hiccups......yeah right.......
 

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Discussion Starter #29
20210406_164536.jpg

20210406_164152.jpg

20210406_164138.jpg

Well I'm on to one of my next sagas.....

#1.... the exhaust/converter studs unscrewed when I took this all apart. No problem then. They all came out nice and even, but now threading them back the nuts are threading down onto the studs before the studs are fully seated into the converter.. That should be an easier fix.....

my bigger problem....

#2 is that my pcv valve was brittle and broke off inside the valve cover.

Not sure if the picture down the hole shows anything and I'm honestly not sure what's even in there. I can just hear it rattling but I think it's the very tip of the old pcv valve and it's all still intact in one big piece. Probably half inch long or so, so there's no way that's coming back out through the hole, even if I could get it back up to it.

*Another "wish I would've researched this on the Forum before diving right in all gungholike......"So simple, again holding me up......

I got most of it out, but in trying to fish the farthest down piece out, I pushed it inside the valve cover, with no way I can see to fish it out. So now it's loose inside there where I can't use a screw like I've seen on the forum to pull out. Why don't they make that tin screen/filter type thing accessible?? Obviously because you should never have a reason to be in there I guess....I'd be half tempted to grind off a couple of those rivet(?) type tabs and peel it open enough to grab the remaining piece, but that seems like it would create its own set of issues.

Just leaving it in there and going on my merry little way, my only fear is it could plug up an orifice, but I see people online worried about it getting down into the valve train? The chunk that's in there has no way of getting out of that screen that I can see. It's certainly bigger than the openings in the little screen part so it's going to spend the rest of it's life floating around in there. Not sure if it could somehow get wedged inside there and screw me up, but as you can see so far, it's highly probable with my luck on this project.

I can't wait to end this debacle, one way or the other, so I can finally tear into my Land Cruiser and do 21 years of oil leaks and a head gasket. Actually looking forward to that now after this thing......Any thoughts on the pcv valve, I'm all ears...meanwhile I'll go back to reassembling everything else and get the valves adjusted hopefully.....Cheers!
 

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Any thoughts on the pcv valve, I'm all ears.
I would just leave it in there too, if there's no way for it to get into my cam, rocker arms and valve springs.
 
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View attachment 147411
View attachment 147412
View attachment 147413
Well I'm on to one of my next sagas.....

#1.... the exhaust/converter studs unscrewed when I took this all apart. No problem then. They all came out nice and even, but now threading them back the nuts are threading down onto the studs before the studs are fully seated into the converter.. That should be an easier fix.....

my bigger problem....

#2 is that my pcv valve was brittle and broke off inside the valve cover.

Not sure if the picture down the hole shows anything and I'm honestly not sure what's even in there. I can just hear it rattling but I think it's the very tip of the old pcv valve and it's all still intact in one big piece. Probably half inch long or so, so there's no way that's coming back out through the hole, even if I could get it back up to it.

*Another "wish I would've researched this on the Forum before diving right in all gungholike......"So simple, again holding me up......

I got most of it out, but in trying to fish the farthest down piece out, I pushed it inside the valve cover, with no way I can see to fish it out. So now it's loose inside there where I can't use a screw like I've seen on the forum to pull out. Why don't they make that tin screen/filter type thing accessible?? Obviously because you should never have a reason to be in there I guess....I'd be half tempted to grind off a couple of those rivet(?) type tabs and peel it open enough to grab the remaining piece, but that seems like it would create its own set of issues.

Just leaving it in there and going on my merry little way, my only fear is it could plug up an orifice, but I see people online worried about it getting down into the valve train? The chunk that's in there has no way of getting out of that screen that I can see. It's certainly bigger than the openings in the little screen part so it's going to spend the rest of it's life floating around in there. Not sure if it could somehow get wedged inside there and screw me up, but as you can see so far, it's highly probable with my luck on this project.

I can't wait to end this debacle, one way or the other, so I can finally tear into my Land Cruiser and do 21 years of oil leaks and a head gasket. Actually looking forward to that now after this thing......Any thoughts on the pcv valve, I'm all ears...meanwhile I'll go back to reassembling everything else and get the valves adjusted hopefully.....Cheers!
Double nut the studs at the end and thread down till tight.
 

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The trick on the nuts/studs is to use two nuts, tightened against each other on the stud. Get it where you want it, then un-tighten the nuts from each other so you can finish tightening one, then remove the other.

I have no experience (yet...) with the PCV valve, so listening and learning.
 
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If you are remotely capable welder I'd look to grind off the rivets and then tack that cover back on. Or see if you can grab a junkyard valve cover. If the PCV system gets plugged the valves should stay OK being port injected, but it can cause crankcase pressure issues and I'd rather spend another couple hours or days between working and know it's done right than run the risk. Just this idjit's opinion.
 
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If you are remotely capable welder I'd look to grind off the rivets and then tack that cover back on. Or see if you can grab a junkyard valve cover. If the PCV system gets plugged the valves should stay OK being port injected, but it can cause crankcase pressure issues and I'd rather spend another couple hours or days between working and know it's done right than run the risk. Just this idjit's opinion.
By the picture, I assume OP has the old out to be able to install a new PCV valve. It's just part of the broken old one laying on top of the baffle plate. It should be harmless there.
 

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By the picture, I assume OP has the old out to be able to install a new PCV valve. It's just part of the broken old one laying on top of the baffle plate. It should be harmless there.
I'm not familiar enough with it to confidently say that. You've had the J series much farther apart then I ever plan to, so I defer to your knowledge through experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Just to clarify I have "most" of the old one out. The part that's left is pushed down in there far enough that I can definitely install the new one without hitting it or anything
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Man this thing has kicked my butt more than anything I've worked on....and it's the stupidest stuff holding me back the most. Dropping/losing bolts has literally cost me at least 10 hours of wasted time.

Exhaust to converter studs have been the most frustrating thing I've worked on.....ever....tight cramped spaces... no clearance for sockets....awkward damn angle on the rear bolts....47 nooks and crannies for the bolts to fall into.....double nuts, then they come loose....have to try to retighten them while they're hiding in some crevasse deep in the engine bay... oh yeah......then you have to try to hold hold the gasket in place.... while you try to start the studs......laying on your stomach with your feet braced against a strategically placed storage tote......

I'm guessing I should've at least started all these before I tightened down the heads and put the valve covers on?

*Update to tonight..I got everything back together..... fired up seems to run fine.... no banging or clanging at least, so that's good, but throwing a bunch error codes involving throttle position sensor, accelerator position sensor....wondering if I've got a loose wire connection, dirty wires, something unhooked?

None of these issues were there before the exhaust valve problem so thinking it's unrelated, other than all the connectors I had to work around. Any ideas? Other than looking over the whole engine bay again? Which I'll have to do regardless. Kind of hoping for that "Hail Mary" deal where there's an issue that everyone's undergone that I just haven't seen, like a simple connector unplugged,
20210415_182031.jpg
but I don't think I'm gonna be that lucky.

P0123
P2101
P0223
 

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Man this thing has kicked my butt more than anything I've worked on....and it's the stupidest stuff holding me back the most. Dropping/losing bolts has literally cost me at least 10 hours of wasted time.

Exhaust to converter studs have been the most frustrating thing I've worked on.....ever....tight cramped spaces... no clearance for sockets....awkward damn angle on the rear bolts....47 nooks and crannies for the bolts to fall into.....double nuts, then they come loose....have to try to retighten them while they're hiding in some crevasse deep in the engine bay... oh yeah......then you have to try to hold hold the gasket in place.... while you try to start the studs......laying on your stomach with your feet braced against a strategically placed storage tote......

I'm guessing I should've at least started all these before I tightened down the heads and put the valve covers on?

*Update to tonight..I got everything back together..... fired up seems to run fine.... no banging or clanging at least, so that's good, but throwing a bunch error codes involving throttle position sensor, accelerator position sensor....wondering if I've got a loose wire connection, dirty wires, something unhooked?

None of these issues were there before the exhaust valve problem so thinking it's unrelated, other than all the connectors I had to work around. Any ideas? Other than looking over the whole engine bay again? Which I'll have to do regardless. Kind of hoping for that "Hail Mary" deal where there's an issue that everyone's undergone that I just haven't seen, like a simple connector unplugged, View attachment 147699 but I don't think I'm gonna be that lucky.

P0123
P2101
P0223
These are throttle position sensor codes. Is the wire harnesses to the throttle body disconnected?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I tried them all and all seem intact, but it was late and I was plenty loopy. Back out there again tonight for Round 26. .
 
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Try disconnecting the negative terminal, ;ut key it and turn to on (I know nothing will happen- it takes any energy/memory out of capacitors)
reconnect neg. terminal and see if the codes return. Quick and simple.
 
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