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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll be brief as my wife's Pilot is currently torn apart in the garage and awaiting my return after dinner.

2013 EX-L, 182,000 miles. It's had it's oil changed regularly, air filters, VTM fluid changed a couple times, AT fluid a few times, original belt and all timing components. Original everything in fact, except tires. I don't remember ever putting brakes in this thing even and they still look like new and we bought it with about 70,000 on it.

*Oh, I did change the plugs at about 95,000 miles.

Last week it started flashing the CEL about 300 miles into a 3000 mile trip so I had her rent a car to continue and I rented a truck and UHaul trailer and towed it 300 miles home.

Initially had it towed to the Honda dealer close to where she stopped and they diagnosed the P0306 code. Swapped coils, problem stayed with #6. Swapped plugs, problem stayed with #6. Compression test found only 35 psi in #6 as opposed to 165 or so like it should be(?). I told them to stop and I'd pick it up and diagnose further when I got it home.
(*Pic attached of dealer code reading results.. AND an incredibly overdue timing belt that I'm quite sure wouldn't have made the extra 2700 miles of mountain roads, had she not had this problem arise).

Other finds.....Air intake tube had a huge crack so I'm sure it was sucking air at least at some point recently. Not sure if I ripped it changing air filters last time or what, but there it is.

After my exhaustive Internet search, I'm focusing on it possibly being a burnt valve in #6. And not catastrophic failure of a piston or ring, etc. Thoughts?

Timing belt is still intact and does appear to have skipped. All marks line up perfectly still.

It does run plenty rough now as you might expect.

Just curious what the Pilot Experts think about it just being a valve, or if that's maybe too optimistic? I already have it torn apart ready to remove the timing belt right now, but about to pull the head as soon as I go back in the garage.

Thanks in advance for any input. Cheers!

Brian
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2013 Pilot EX-L, 182k. 1996 Land Cruiser. 1996 Accord Super Wagon SS Chick Gitter. 2004 CBR600rr.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did you not get a code from the maintenance minder at somewhere around 105K miles indicating that the timing belt change was due?
No Idea. Probably, but I wouldn't have made time to do it then anyway. It had been in the back of my mind ever since it turned 100k, but too many irons in the fire just kept pushing back even looking into further. I didn't do the timing belt on our old 08 Odyssey til about 165,000 and that belt still looked like new.
 
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Yeah, I think it’s time to figure out if you want to keep it. Your engine has nearly 200k miles... chances are more than just the tbelt has been deferred so you have to consider what’s next. Is it worth repairing the heads on a 200k mile engine? Are you better off replacing the whole engine? Is the transmission in good shape or is the fluid burnt up and accelerated wear? Just saying gotta figure out if it’s worth fixing.

It very well could just be a valve, but you never know until you dig into it more or do a leak down test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thx. Timing belt is still intact, and lined up perfectly, so no slippage yet. It's just in "near failure" condition. My phone camera is cracked so my pictures rarely turn out well or I'd snap some more of it. Thx
I only spent a few minutes with it last night before I ran out of time so no more progress disassembling yet.

I had a timing belt blow on my 96 Accord wagon about 10 years ago and that thing sat in my 4th stall for 4 1/2 years before I finally got back to fixing it. 4 hours and a $200 head off eBay and she was purring like a kitten again. Still driving it today in fact. 😁
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pics of #6 Exhaust valve...... missing part of itself.
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Fix the valve and keep on trucking.
Disable the VCM with other basic maintenance it should serve you well for a while longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You nailed it! That's exactly my plan at this point. I had already bought the timing belt kit and assorted goodies so I'll slap them on when it's ready. I bought the valve spring tool from another post so I plan to take all the valves out and clean them up, hand lap, and reassemble. Debating if I should just pull the other head too and clean those valves up too. Plan to but I always run out of time. I'd really hate to get this all back together and find out there's a bad one in the rear head too. Well see what tomorrow brings and go from there. Thx
 

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You nailed it! That's exactly my plan at this point. I had already bought the timing belt kit and assorted goodies so I'll slap them on when it's ready. I bought the valve spring tool from another post so I plan to take all the valves out and clean them up, hand lap, and reassemble. Debating if I should just pull the other head too and clean those valves up too. Plan to but I always run out of time. I'd really hate to get this all back together and find out there's a bad one in the rear head too. Well see what tomorrow brings and go from there. Thx
I assume your familiar with the head bolts being TTY? I've reused before, but the consensus is to buy new ones.
 

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That burned valve may be the poster-pic for why the valve clearances need to be checked.

The heads look pretty good otherwise. Very minor pitting at the fire rings, no obvious corrosion. Have the heads skimmed as part of the reconditioning, and it will be good for another 200k.
 

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No Idea. Probably, but I wouldn't have made time to do it then anyway. It had been in the back of my mind ever since it turned 100k, but too many irons in the fire just kept pushing back even looking into further. I didn't do the timing belt on our old 08 Odyssey til about 165,000 and that belt still looked like new.
Well, this one sure didn't (look like new), Sorry for your woes

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well this is as far as I've got so far. While I'm thinking about it tho, I found this little white part laying on top of the intake when I got the rear head off. I have no idea where it goes or what it's even from. Any ideas? Thx
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Back at this again after an extended hiatus and having a brain cramp from too much "thinking"

Heads are all cleaned up, new valve stem seals installed, valves have all been lapped(and the 1 new exhaust valve installed and lapped as well) and both heads reassembled, cams installed, basically ready to put back in the car.

*Valve adjustment screws are turned all the way out so no pressure on valves. All valves are closed tight.

Before I go farther my brain has been giving me trouble second guessing if I have the cam gears all correctly lined up, and if it even matters yet at this point? I assume they should be in the right position before I set the heads back on the block?
Rotating the cam gears (while each head is separate and obviously not connected by timing belt) I don't get the back head to line up with the mark.

*In the pic the front head does appear to line up with the #1 mark, but it rotates freely by hand back and forth quite a bit.

*The back head, no matter how many times I rotate the cam with a wrench ever lines up with the mark. Just makes me wonder if there was anyway I could've somehow installed the cam wrong, but that seems unlikely?

I need to adjust the valves and I'd prefer to do it on the bench before I reinstall the heads. I know I watched a video last week about doing it that way but can't find it now to be sure. If I have to just do it once heads are installed that's fine, just seems easier if I can do it all on the bench rather than laying in the engine bay all contorted.

All this leads me to where I'm stuck now. "Do I need to re-orient the cam gears before installing the heads back on the block?"

Also, please don't be afraid to point out anything that looks out of whack because at this point I've been away from this for so long, and stopped and started so many times, I could be forgetting spark plugs and oil before I'm done.

Thanks for following this long drawn out synopsis. Cheers!


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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So now I dropped one of the bolts for the timing belt tensioner and have wasted 2 hours trying to find it. Still haven't found it. One of the most frustrating experiences of my entire "home mechanicing" career. I want to burn this thing to the ground.
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So now I dropped one of the bolts for the timing belt tensioner and have wasted 2 hours trying to find it. Still haven't found it. One of the most frustrating experiences of my entire "home mechanicing" career. I want to burn this thing to the ground. View attachment 147368
Do you have a long flexible magnet? I use it to go fishing around.
When i feel a little frustration, I just go inside, maybe a beer or glass of wine (control, never over do it) for a muscle ache, then get back at it.
 

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So now I dropped one of the bolts for the timing belt tensioner and have wasted 2 hours trying to find it. Still haven't found it. One of the most frustrating experiences of my entire "home mechanicing" career. I want to burn this thing to the ground. View attachment 147368
Or a good night's rest helps too.
Hope things get better. We're rooting for you. 😁
147374
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
1. Magnet....yep. 2 of them actually.......one of which fell into my drain pain full of oiI had under the truck so that took about 20 more minutes to realize.

2. Yep.... I dropped the other bolt at least 50 times trying to duplicate that same cosmic vortex that ate the first one. No luck yet.

3. Yep....Went inside a couple of times to change my "Karma" (as that's usually how I seem to find something mysterious like this)....still no luck. *Now when I go inside my wife just reminds me how this "was supposed to be done 2 weeks ago"...."I don't want a rental car anymore......etc....etc...etc....."

Will post another update when I get back to it again. Or when I burn the garage down with this inside of it........😀

Insurance adjuster, that was a joke.......
 
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