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Interesting that they are now skipping the step 1 PCM update and going right to the step 2 rebuild. I got the eligible misfire CEL back in May and all they did was the PCM update (and charge me for new plugs).
they probably charged you for the 5-6 spark plugs.


Procedure A gets the 1-4 spark plugs and PCM software update , if the code returns they will replace the piston rings on 1-3 or 1-4 depends on the DTC
 

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When the car was at ~115k, #1 fouled again. At this point I learned about the ECM recall/lawsuit. I took the car to Honda and asked them if my car was a candidate for the ring replacement. They said it is a two step process and performed step 1 (replaced the #1-4 plugs and reflashed the ECM with the new program for cylinder deactivation).

I had my ECM reflashed a LONG time ago. I don't remember the exact mileage, but it was noted on a service receipt on one of the very rare times that I paid a dealership for an oil change and tire rotation. I'm interested in hearing from the high mileage owners who had this fix to learn if there are any fouling issues at higher mileages. I'm around 95K now and *knock on wood* no fouling issues or misfires to date. Oil consumption is hit or miss and doesn't seem to be tied to a particular brand of oil; my last oil change had no noticeable drop in oil level but I have seen some where I was almost a quart low after 5000 miles (my typical interval).


This is why we always tell our customers to service the vehicle at the dealership because we keep records and can go back in the history and look at actual intervals and once we see actual maintenance records of service performed when it is recommended by the manufacturer, we cannot deny to repair our vehicles. Honda AFAIK stands by their products
I get that, but I also can't stand the thought of paying $50+ and waiting 2 hours for an oil change with an (adequate but still not full synthetic) oil when I can do it myself with a quality full synthetic for $30 in 20 minutes. Same goes for the $199 "B2 service special" when I can install a quality air filter and cabin filter in 5 minutes for $20 in addition to $30 for oil and a filter. I also don't trust either of my two local Honda dealers as BOTH of them tried to scam me on the same thing. I paid for tire rotations however they never did the work (I had my tires/wheels marked prior to getting the service so it was obvious).
 

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Just for some added commentary, my Pilot is a 2010 Touring FWD and I'm the original owner. I replaced all 6 plugs @ 106K and I recall #1 looked really fouled. I got the dreaded CEL @134,900 miles back in Sept 2017. Dealer replaced plugs 1-4 & updated the PGM. Luckily it was just within the warranty period so it was covered. I haven't had any issues since then, but my Pilot still does guzzles the oil. I add a quart about every 1500 miles. The oil is dark and has a smell to it, but I guess it's still doing it's job. I religiously check & fill ever since I heard of the VCM issue.

The ECO light is on most of the time with my driving style. I park in my garage at home and at the same spot at work and there are no oil spots at either locations. There isn't any white or blue smoke when driving or idling. I just passed 150K last week FWIW. I used to get ~24-26 mpg (computer) when it was new, but i can't seem to break 22 mpg (computer) now with the same work route for some reason.

Nice pics Amave17! About how much would that work cost out of warranty at the dealership vs. independent shop?
 

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Just for some added commentary, my Pilot is a 2010 Touring FWD and I'm the original owner. I replaced all 6 plugs @ 106K and I recall #1 looked really fouled. I got the dreaded CEL @134,900 miles back in Sept 2017. Dealer replaced plugs 1-4 & updated the PGM. Luckily it was just within the warranty period so it was covered. I haven't had any issues since then, but my Pilot still does guzzles the oil. I add a quart about every 1500 miles. The oil is dark and has a smell to it, but I guess it's still doing it's job. I religiously check & fill ever since I heard of the VCM issue.

The ECO light is on most of the time with my driving style. I park in my garage at home and at the same spot at work and there are no oil spots at either locations. There isn't any white or blue smoke when driving or idling. I just passed 150K last week FWIW. I used to get ~24-26 mpg (computer) when it was new, but i can't seem to break 22 mpg (computer) now with the same work route for some reason.

Nice pics Amave17! About how much would that work cost out of warranty at the dealership vs. independent shop?




We figured Honda pays probably a total of $3000 + with parts and labor BUT they require us to replace parts that IMO can be reused .


For example they have us replace the exhaust gaskets, the water jacket gaskets, the EGR valve gaskets etc. which are still useable but they need to be included with the warranty return parts so we absolutely have to replace them BUT if it were my vehicle the only thing that would get replaced are the head gasket and the valve cover gaskets, all other gaskets would be reused.

It seems like a waste to replace so many gaskets and parts that can be reused but i guess Honda wants to do right by the engine owners.


My advice would be to get an oil consumption test started at the dealer ship if you feel that your engine is using too much oil, you will have to pay for an oil change but if it is found that your engine is in fact using excess oil you get new piston rings etc. even if you don't get a MIL light on ( chances are if your spark plugs are fouled it may have a DTC set in pending codes )
 

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I'm actually okay with adding oil for the time being because I don't foresee me keeping the vehicle more than for a few more months. But until I trade it in, if the issue reoccurs, is it okay to just install new plugs in 1-4 and keep on rolling? My only concern would be if the engine craps and I'll be out ~$3K before I'm ready to get a new vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I'm actually okay with adding oil for the time being because I don't foresee me keeping the vehicle more than for a few more months. But until I trade it in, if the issue reoccurs, is it okay to just install new plugs in 1-4 and keep on rolling? My only concern would be if the engine craps and I'll be out ~$3K before I'm ready to get a new vehicle.
Not sure I have ever heard of an engine crapping out completely because of this issue.

Should be fine to install new plugs in 1-4 and roll on... or just replace the plug throwing the actual code. Or, just swap the bad plug with one from 5 or 6, and clean the fouled plug up with some brake cleaner before reinstalling it.

If you would be willing to pay for plugs.... I'd just buy the VCM disable adapter, then remove it right before sale/trade-in, and sell it for a small loss. Seems like that would be a lot easier than messing with plugs.
 

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Not sure I have ever heard of an engine crapping out completely because of this issue.

Should be fine to install new plugs in 1-4 and roll on... or just replace the plug throwing the actual code. Or, just swap the bad plug with one from 5 or 6, and clean the fouled plug up with some brake cleaner before reinstalling it.

If you would be willing to pay for plugs.... I'd just buy the VCM disable adapter, then remove it right before sale/trade-in, and sell it for a small loss. Seems like that would be a lot easier than messing with plugs.

this is what i would do
 

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I'll definitely clean & swap plugs if I get the code again. I thought about getting the VCM Muzzler earlier, but decided not to in the end. I'm hanging on until the new Passport arrives at which point i'll decide if it's worth getting or just going with a 2019 Pilot instead.

Thanks for all the suggestions & comments!
 

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So I literally just purchased a 2011 Honda Pilot EX with 82000 miles.

I am experiencing slight vibration/shudder between 50-65mph, but have not noticed whether the eco light has been on yet.

Will I still be covered under the VCM lawsuit warranty? Should I take it there regardless? The car came with an aftermarket warranty for 90 days, like some dealers do, with $100 deductible. Should I still take it to Honda, even if it is not covered under the VCM warranty to get it checked/updated?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
So I literally just purchased a 2011 Honda Pilot EX with 82000 miles.

I am experiencing slight vibration/shudder between 50-65mph, but have not noticed whether the eco light has been on yet.

Will I still be covered under the VCM lawsuit warranty? Should I take it there regardless? The car came with an aftermarket warranty for 90 days, like some dealers do, with $100 deductible. Should I still take it to Honda, even if it is not covered under the VCM warranty to get it checked/updated?
It all comes down to when your vehicle delivery happened. If late 2011, then it would still be covered. The extended warranty program is 8 years. If you aren't throwing a code, there is nothing to do.... no warranty work would be provided.

What I would do?

1. Change your spark plugs right now using the correct NGK plugs.
2. Install a VCM disable device (VCMTuner, VCMuzzler, etc.)
3. Change your transmission fluid right now with Honda DW1, and then change it two more times with each subsequent oil change.
 

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It all comes down to when your vehicle delivery happened. If late 2011, then it would still be covered. The extended warranty program is 8 years. If you aren't throwing a code, there is nothing to do.... no warranty work would be provided.

What I would do?

1. Change your spark plugs right now using the correct NGK plugs.
2. Install a VCM disable device (VCMTuner, VCMuzzler, etc.)
3. Change your transmission fluid right now with Honda DW1, and then change it two more times with each subsequent oil change.
Well and update on my issue, as it is slightly different than I posted: shudder-type vibration starting at 70mph. Also, when moderately braking from that speed shudders as well. Doesn't matter if Eco light is on, does it regardless. When coasting, no shudder.

Makes me think issue is not with VCM, at the moment.
 

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Looks like I got the code again, P0301, at 153,623 miles. Is the number 1 cylinder the left most one on the front when you are facing the engine? Or is it the back left most one? I googled for the diagram, but got some firing order ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
Looks like I got the code again, P0301, at 153,623 miles. Is the number 1 cylinder the left most one on the front when you are facing the engine? Or is it the back left most one? I googled for the diagram, but got some firing order ones.


If you don't plan on keeping it forever, and refuse to spend the money on the VCM disable, I'd swap plug #1 with #5 or #6, as those cylinders do not participate in VCM. Provided #1 doesnt have a cracked insulator. Clean it up with some brake cleaner/carb cleaner.
 

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Yep, I'm still looking for a new vehicle right now, but I need to get past this issue atm. I'll clean and swap with #5 since it's the easiest to get to. It's idling really rough right now. Let y'all know how it goes after it's done.

BTW, I know everyone recommends sticking with the NGK Iridiums, but would the Bosch Iridiums also work? They're like 1/2 the price at my local auto parts store. I don't see myself keeping this Pilot past the end of the year. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I only use NGK 7751 {#ILZKR7B11} Laser Iridium which are $8.34 each at RockAuto. I wont use anything else.

But I bet swapping plugs between #5 and #6 will get you to the end of the year.
 

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BTW, I know everyone recommends sticking with the NGK Iridiums, but would the Bosch Iridiums also work? They're like 1/2 the price at my local auto parts store.!
I put Bosh Iridiums in my '12 Pilot 9 months and 14k miles ago. All good. I paid $8 ea from Rock Auto.
 

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I pulled out #1 and #5. As suspected, #1 was fouled while #5 was fine. I tried to clean #1 with brake cleaner and it helped some, but not enough for me to feel comfortable putting it in #5. In the end, I put the plug from #5 into #1 and replaced #5 with an unfouled old plug from my last change @ ~106K.
 

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