I guess I just don't understand why you would omit such a grievous lurching like that...even it only happens occasionally.
Hot Off The Interstate - Transmission Shutter
This has happened to me twice on my 2012 Pilot EXL around 18,000 and 22,000 miles after driving on the interstate for 3 to 4 hours. The first time, stopped to get gas and when I started the vehicle and put in gear there was quite the shutter and shake. Really couldn't decide if it was engine or transmission. The check engine light flashed and then all seemed normal, got back on the interstate with no more issues the next fuel stop 4 hours later. Had routine maintenance performed the following week since maintenance minder popped up during trip. Dealership checked for codes and none were found. Fast forward about 3 months and the same thing happened except the noise sounded like a Sprag clutch slipping. It shuttered 3 times, feeling like when you are accelerating over slick spots - slip, grab, slip, grab etc. Only lasted about 1 or 2 seconds and all was back to normal, NO check engine light this time. Dealership has been very helpful, but no solution. Any suggestions?
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You're right, I should report it and go on record before I hit the 60K warranty.
I don’t mean to being up quite and old post but my 12 Pilot does this too! On flat surfaces only from park to drive it like sputters. Did you find anything out?
This is a very old thread. The primary contributors haven't logged into the forum in at least eight years now. No worries about bringing up an old thread that includes the same issues, but asking the original posters won't get you much. Options: "has anyone found an answer to this?". Or start a new thread, including a link to the old one for reference, and include exactly the symptoms you are asking about.
I haven't experienced the symptoms myself, but if I did my first actions would include bringing all the maintenance tasks current if they aren't. For a shuddering gearbox that would include fluid level checks, a sniff test for burned fluid smell, and a visual of the dipstick fluid looking for anything darker than red wine color. Damaged or burned fluid goes towards brown color, and is pretty easy to spot on the dipstick or with that dipstick sample on a white paper towel. If the fluid hasn't been swapped in the last 25k or so, that would get added to the services list.
Honda's procedure checklist includes making sure your PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is flashed with the latest software version updates. This generally involves a trip to the dealer and some $$ to them for the service. I'm of the general opinion that if the car worked OK before and now it doesn't, a PCM update might mask the symptom but won't actually cure the underlying problem. In automatic gearboxes the "problems" are most often wear in clutches and bands, and hydraulic problems with debris from that wear. Transmissions that are abused by overheating and under-servicing are separate issues. Generally a fluid swap will clear most debris-caused issues but won't magically reverse wear.
"Shuddering" is a description that might apply to the transmission failing to shift smoothly from park-to-drive or neutral-to-drive, at least as the thread OP described. It might also apply to the engine's failure to maintain idle RPM's as the loading changes with those shifts. You can try to isolate the cause to engine by shifting park-to-reverse and neutral-to-reverse and see if the same shuddering occurs. If it does, look harder at the engine. Idle speed and stability rely on having no leaks between the mass airflow sensor and the throttle body. Cracking in the plastic duct is becoming more common as the cars age, and can be related to checking and/or replacing the engine air filter element and flexing that duct during that process. Regardless, false air drawn through a crack in the duct makes it tough for the PCM and throttle to maintain proper engine idle speed as the load suddenly changes from the transmission shift. A good OBD diagnostic tool may spot changes in fuel trim between idle and just off-idle conditions if false air is a problem. But it's not too tough to just carefully inspect that plastic duct, paying particular attention to the ribs on the bottom -- they see the most heat and the most flexing with engine movement and air filter checking.
Others will undoubtedly chime in with their direct experiences with the shuddering symptom and what they have done.
I haven't experienced the symptoms myself, but if I did my first actions would include bringing all the maintenance tasks current if they aren't. For a shuddering gearbox that would include fluid level checks, a sniff test for burned fluid smell, and a visual of the dipstick fluid looking for anything darker than red wine color. Damaged or burned fluid goes towards brown color, and is pretty easy to spot on the dipstick or with that dipstick sample on a white paper towel. If the fluid hasn't been swapped in the last 25k or so, that would get added to the services list.
Honda's procedure checklist includes making sure your PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is flashed with the latest software version updates. This generally involves a trip to the dealer and some $$ to them for the service. I'm of the general opinion that if the car worked OK before and now it doesn't, a PCM update might mask the symptom but won't actually cure the underlying problem. In automatic gearboxes the "problems" are most often wear in clutches and bands, and hydraulic problems with debris from that wear. Transmissions that are abused by overheating and under-servicing are separate issues. Generally a fluid swap will clear most debris-caused issues but won't magically reverse wear.
"Shuddering" is a description that might apply to the transmission failing to shift smoothly from park-to-drive or neutral-to-drive, at least as the thread OP described. It might also apply to the engine's failure to maintain idle RPM's as the loading changes with those shifts. You can try to isolate the cause to engine by shifting park-to-reverse and neutral-to-reverse and see if the same shuddering occurs. If it does, look harder at the engine. Idle speed and stability rely on having no leaks between the mass airflow sensor and the throttle body. Cracking in the plastic duct is becoming more common as the cars age, and can be related to checking and/or replacing the engine air filter element and flexing that duct during that process. Regardless, false air drawn through a crack in the duct makes it tough for the PCM and throttle to maintain proper engine idle speed as the load suddenly changes from the transmission shift. A good OBD diagnostic tool may spot changes in fuel trim between idle and just off-idle conditions if false air is a problem. But it's not too tough to just carefully inspect that plastic duct, paying particular attention to the ribs on the bottom -- they see the most heat and the most flexing with engine movement and air filter checking.
Others will undoubtedly chime in with their direct experiences with the shuddering symptom and what they have done.
Mileage?I don’t mean to being up quite and old post but my 12 Pilot does this too! On flat surfaces only from park to drive it like sputters. Did you find anything out?
All maintenance up to date?
Engine light off/on?
85,200 all maintenance is up todate even timing belt and no light.Mileage?
All maintenance up to date?
Engine light off/on?
Assuming it’s “not” the engine trying to stall and is transmission related.., I do have some concern when we’re talking about an 11 year old vehicle with these low miles, averaging only 8k miles per year. In other words, this Pilot have not reached 90k miles still has about 45% of the original factory DW-1 ATF still left in the transmission, with the 3rd scheduled ATF drain and fill coming up in 4.8k miles. That could be next year. Quite simply, the transmission fluid is likely old, if it is how I’ve stated. Please correct me if my calculations are wrong.85,200 all maintenance is up todate even timing belt and no light.
If so, I’d immediately plan on 2 drain and fills of the ATF using full synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Do this on level ground (no ramps), let the beset for at least one hour, jack the drivers side rear tire, open drain plug and let drain to a slow drip. This should allow for a 3.8 quart refresh of the 9 quart system. After driving the vehicle a few miles, allowing the engine and transmission to warm to operating temperature, do a 2nd, as the first. With 2 3.8qt D&Fs your transmission will have about 60% fresh fluid. After driving 500-1000 miles (no rule), I’d do a 3rd bringing it up over 80% new full synthetic ATF.
I’ve done 3 drain and fills on it. With Honda fluid. It only does this every so often and only from park to drive never park to reverse or neutral to reverseAssuming it’s “not” the engine trying to stall and is transmission related.., I do have some concern when we’re talking about an 11 year old vehicle with these low miles, averaging only 8k miles per year. In other words, this Pilot have not reached 90k miles still has about 45% of the original factory DW-1 ATF still left in the transmission, with the 3rd scheduled ATF drain and fill coming up in 4.8k miles. That could be next year. Quite simply, the transmission fluid is likely old, if it is how I’ve stated. Please correct me if my calculations are wrong.
If so, I’d immediately plan on 2 drain and fills of the ATF using full synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF. Do this on level ground (no ramps), let the beset for at least one hour, jack the drivers side rear tire, open drain plug and let drain to a slow drip. This should allow for a 3.8 quart refresh of the 9 quart system. After driving the vehicle a few miles, allowing the engine and transmission to warm to operating temperature, do a 2nd, as the first. With 2 3.8qt D&Fs your transmission will have about 60% fresh fluid. After driving 500-1000 miles (no rule), I’d do a 3rd bringing it up over 80% new full synthetic ATF.
How long ago was the last D&F?I’ve done 3 drain and fills on it. With Honda fluid. It only does this every so often and only from park to drive never park to reverse or neutral to reverse
No more than 15,000 miles agoHow long ago was the last D&F?
Valvoline MaxLife has solved many people’s transmission issues. I would be at Walmart picking me up a couple of 1 gallon jugs.No more than 15,000 miles ago
I have a transmission warranty and I’m nervous if I did change the fluid to Valvoline it would mess up the warranty. I mean do trans fluids look different?Valvoline MaxLife has solved many people’s transmission issues. I would be at Walmart picking me up a couple of 1 gallon jugs.
I’m not one who pays for warranties, but I don’t know of any case of anyone being denied a warranty for using VML. Does your warranty specify using DW-1 only? How can an 11 year old vehicle be under warranty?I have a transmission warranty and I’m nervous if I did change the fluid to Valvoline it would mess up the warranty. I mean do trans fluids look different?
Just that things can’t be out of OEM spec and I just got the car a year ago and bought a 3 year engine and trans warranty…I’m not one who pays for warranties, but I don’t know of any case of anyone being denied a warranty for using VML. Does your warranty specify using DW-1 only? How can an 11 year old vehicle be under warranty?
Do you use Honda oil and filter?Just that things can’t be out of OEM spec and I just got the car a year ago and bought a 3 year engine and trans warranty…
Honda Coolant?
All Honda parts for timing belt water pump job?
Honda Brake Fluid?
Honda Air Filter?
I completely understand the fear of being denied warranty. In this case what is your recourse? Will your warranty cover this issue? I only know what I’ve done that works and verified by many other Piloteers on this forum. Valvoline MaxLife does what it says on the back of the bottle.
Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF or DW-1? POLL
Didn't see a poll for this. This poll is for 5 or 6-speed transmission owners. If you can swear by the quality of another fluid, tell us what and why. Be nice. Enjoy.
www.piloteers.org
Why Do You Use Valvoline MaxLife ATF?
We often hear it said that you buy VML because it's lower in price. So I felt a poll might help those intrested in an ATF alternative to see our reasons.
www.piloteers.org
I'll echo Nail Grease's comments on warranties. But if your are concerned, by all means use the genuine Honda fluid at least while the warranty covers.
I'd still do some inspecting on the plastic duct between the air filter housing and the throttle body. It takes minutes, no special tools except fingers, and some hand soap when you are done. "False Air" is a very common cause of similar drivability issues so very worthwhile taking a look. If you have any further suspicions, that whole duct comes out with a couple screw clamps, the plug on the airflow sensor, plus the crankcase vent pipe connection. Then a bright light inside and a look for light leaks is pretty simple.
The basic fluid level checking is still something you want to do before chasing other things. Honda has us check with the car fully warmed up, then check the level on the dipstick after the engine has been stopped for about a minute. If I pull the hood release and stop the engine, the minute is about the time needed to get out, open and prop the hood, grab a paper towel and find the dipstick without burning my hands.
Now that our Pilot is on an annual oil and fluids service schedule (not driven that much lately) it gets a VML drain and fill at every second engine oil service. Works out to 90%+ replacement every 25k or so. 25k Intervals is the "severe service" interval for the transmission fluid, so it works out pretty well.
I'd still do some inspecting on the plastic duct between the air filter housing and the throttle body. It takes minutes, no special tools except fingers, and some hand soap when you are done. "False Air" is a very common cause of similar drivability issues so very worthwhile taking a look. If you have any further suspicions, that whole duct comes out with a couple screw clamps, the plug on the airflow sensor, plus the crankcase vent pipe connection. Then a bright light inside and a look for light leaks is pretty simple.
The basic fluid level checking is still something you want to do before chasing other things. Honda has us check with the car fully warmed up, then check the level on the dipstick after the engine has been stopped for about a minute. If I pull the hood release and stop the engine, the minute is about the time needed to get out, open and prop the hood, grab a paper towel and find the dipstick without burning my hands.
Now that our Pilot is on an annual oil and fluids service schedule (not driven that much lately) it gets a VML drain and fill at every second engine oil service. Works out to 90%+ replacement every 25k or so. 25k Intervals is the "severe service" interval for the transmission fluid, so it works out pretty well.
21 - 36 of 36 Posts
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