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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Well I'm happy to report that my compression test on all 6 cylinders proved to be good! Especially cylinder #4 where my misfire code was 馃榿. Nothing below 120 psi after 3 strokes.
149136
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I have not detected any vacuum leak using butane around vacuum hoses. Disconnected the brake booster vac hose and plugged it. No change in the map reading so I do not suspect the brake booster. No trouble with brakes either. Replaced intake manifold gasket and throttle body gasket, the air intake hose is leak free, no change in the MAP reading. I can not hear a vacuum leak. Replace MAP sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Have a manual vac gauge? What does your scanner show for map voltage at hot idle, maybe your scanner isn't reporting psi correctly.
No.
Going to see what my MAP reading is on my other Crosstour. May swap sensors to see if the reading changes.
 

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Fuel pump would effect trims on both banks. Things that are the usual causes of 1 bank trims being off
A. Cam timing off
B. Vac leak
C egr ports plugged and egr not closing all the way
D. A/f sensor biased
E. Cat being plugged/restricted
F. Valve on the bank out of adjustment
G injector(s)
H. Have seen cracked air intake tube on a maf veh effect only 1 bank.
Map v would be helpful information
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Fuel pump would effect trims on both banks. Things that are the usual causes of 1 bank trims being off
A. Cam timing off
B. Vac leak
C egr ports plugged and egr not closing all the way
D. A/f sensor biased
E. Cat being plugged/restricted
F. Valve on the bank out of adjustment
G injector(s)
H. Have seen cracked air intake tube on a maf veh effect only 1 bank.
Map v would be helpful information
Ty for the list.
I am suspicious that the EGR may be the problem.
I checked the MAP reading on my other Crosstour. The reading is the same and has very negative fuel trims, but both banks. 馃う鈥嶁檪锔
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Welp, after going over this engine, and unable to find a vacuum leak to attribute to negative fuel trims. I'm pleased to say that after buying a professional scan tool, I was able to reset the throttle, and my fuel trims are back closer to zero. It smoothed out instantly! It's not dead yet! 馃榿
After the compression test checking out great and its smooth again at 268k... This is definitely a banana dance moment!
149494

New radiator and AC condenser going in this week, hopefully back on the road next week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
What happens when you hit hogs. 馃う鈥嶁檪锔
149541

Pushed in on the bottom passenger side about 3 inches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Little bangin here, a little there. Large vice grips to bend metal straight again. Got it to where the radiator and condenser can sit in their cradle again. Little touch up primer, looks new again. At least until the next hog strike. 馃う鈥嶁檪锔
馃悥馃悥馃悥馃悥馃悥
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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
The computer dating service matched up a lonely DIY auto mechanic from TX with a comprehensive diagnosis companion.
The relationship will be platonic and wireless.
馃 Hmm. Don't think this analogy will work for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Well after excesive negative fuel trims have reappeared on my 278k mile V6 Crosstour and positive results of a compression test, I have so far replaced throttle body, injectors and fuel pump. I will today, begin the teardown to replace the lower intake manifolds (Honda terminology.. Injector Base) and gaskets in hopes of solving any unmeteted air that may be entering the engine this way. I have been unable to find any vacuum leak. I'm leaning this way because it wasn't a problem before I removed plenum. The plenum does not lay flush on the injector bases before tighteing it down. Need to find torque specs for these Injector Base bolts. Torquing while heads are mounted on the engine looks difficult. Dunno if possible. Anyone been here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Pulled the Crosstour into the garage to get to work on it, but I ran live data to check fuel trims and the numbers one more time before tearing into it. Now the numbers have changed since installing fuel pump and a week worth of driving. Long term is +10 on bank 1 and -3 on bank 2. Obviously the fuel pump needed replacing, so now the question is why is the computer dumping fuel into bank 1.
 

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Long take approx 20 minutes of consistent short calling for a change before it moves. 0 trim is what the veh was originally programmed for, ANY change is motor health/volumetric efficiency/sensor deviation/fuel formulation will change the trims. +/- 10 is very normal and isn't an issue. Your trims are always on the move, your going to go nuts trying to achieve zero.
 
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