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16 EXL AWD @ 67k miles
Apparently my A/C compressor is fried and the stealership quoted $2200 +/- as they would have to drop the subframe to get it out.

They did say that the VIN History shows AC issues before we got the car at 37k miles.

Going to get a local Honda specialty shop with good reviews to give me a quote, but I'm at a loss here.
I know I'm beyond the warranty period, but good grief... This seems crazy.
 

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16 EXL AWD @ 67k miles
Apparently my A/C compressor is fried and the stealership quoted $2200 +/- as they would have to drop the subframe to get it out.

They did say that the VIN History shows AC issues before we got the car at 37k miles.

Going to get a local Honda specialty shop with good reviews to give me a quote, but I'm at a loss here.
I know I'm beyond the warranty period, but good grief... This seems crazy.
If I needed a compressor, I'd buy a low milage, used compressor from a salvage yard before paying that. Some yards will guarantee it for a period. Check out www.car-part.com
I don't see any reason why it can't be removed from the top by first removing the cooling fan, top bar of the radiator support and alternator. It's probably just faster and easier for them to drop the sub frame and not remove so many other parts. They have the lift and subframe support. No, I wouldn't pay $2,200.
 

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16 EXL AWD @ 67k miles
Apparently my A/C compressor is fried and the stealership quoted $2200 +/- as they would have to drop the subframe to get it out.
Going to get a local Honda specialty shop with good reviews to give me a quote, but I'm at a loss here.
The compressor can be bought for about $550.
2016-2020 Honda Compressor 38810-RLV-A02 | Majestic Honda Automotive Parts

Repairpal estimates the labor cost as $375-475.
Honda Pilot AC Compressor Replacement Cost Estimate
You can use their site to identify a local repair shop.
 

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That's much better.
I'd like to see a written estimate on that $2200 OP was quoted.
The dealer was no doubt using the $800+ list price for the compressor, plus the book time for the job multiplied by the dealer's hourly labor rate. Suppose that the book time is ~8 hours and the hourly rate is ~$150, then add that to the price of the compressor, plus some sales tax and maybe miscellaneous "shop fees" and you're over $2K.
 

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The dealer was no doubt using the $800+ list price for the compressor, plus the book time for the job multiplied by the dealer's hourly labor rate. Suppose that the book time is ~8 hours and the hourly rate is ~$150, then add that to the price of the compressor, plus some sales tax and maybe miscellaneous "shop fees" and you're over $2K.
With their equipment, no way it's an 8 hour job. Me, alone? All day with lots of breaks in the heat. Lol 😅
 

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I don't see any reason why it can't be removed from the top by first removing the cooling fan, top bar of the radiator support and alternator. It's probably just faster and easier for them to drop the sub frame and not remove so many other parts. They have the lift and subframe support.
Good luck with that, I still don't think you can go out the top with the radiator in place. $2200 seems high, but 1234y is very expensive $10.75 per ounce, and it holds 26 ounces. The epa royally screwed up the machine, evac/recharge takes 3 times as long as 134a.
 

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Good luck with that, I still don't think you can go out the top with the radiator in place. $2200 seems high, but 1234y is very expensive $10.75 per ounce, and it holds 26 ounces. The epa royally screwed up the machine, evac/recharge takes 3 times as long as 134a.
If your able to get the front engine mount out through the top, I think the A/C compressor will too.
137283

The radiator tilts forward with top bar of the radiator support removed. Take the alternator off and you got a clear shot at the 4 bolts holding the compressor on.
 

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One lift it not bad to do from underneath, without a lift, your way may be better.
I've worked on my back many times with jack stands. It's unbolting the subframe that is the worry. What else has to be unbolted to gain access to the A/C compressor? Engine mounts, then having support for the engine?
 

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Our 2016 Touring had a clutch noise on first start for years, and even though I noted it to the dealer, they ignored it. One day-middle of summer, of course-it just started blowing hot air. They replaced it all for me under hondacare, but on a recent trip to the dealer for other issues, I told them to listen for it on first-start and they say they can't repeat it.

I already hear the clutch noise starting about a year from the replacement, so I am fairly certain it will give up the ghost in the next year or two.

I think they have a compressor with issues.
 

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It's unbolting the subframe that is the worry. What else has to be unbolted to gain access to the A/C compressor? Engine mounts, then having support for the engine?
The 3rd video from post #2 show removal of the front left subframe mounting (1) bolt and subframe stiffener (2) bolts provide access to remove the a/c compressor.
 

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The 3rd video from post #2 show removal of the front left subframe mounting (1) bolt and subframe stiffener (2) bolts provide access to remove the a/c compressor.
This is an old model Odyssey in the video. There is no cross brace to remove. The subframe is large and would have to be lowered to remove the compressor this way on a 3rd Gen Pilot.
137290

Going through the top looks to be an easier safer option to DIY at home without a lift.
 

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This is an old model Odyssey in the video. There is no cross brace to remove. The subframe is large and would have to be lowered to remove the compressor this way on a 3rd Gen Pilot.

Going through the top looks to be an easier safer option to DIY at home without a lift.
I defer to your assessment plan for the OP’s compressor removal as my experience is with 1rst gen Pilot with subframe spacer installation and hopefully no compressor removal for a long long time lol
FYI: subframe spacers also make it easy to change sway bar bushings and a/c compressor as there is more clearance
 

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Keep in mind that when AC Compressor fails- not talking about clutch failure but compressor internal failure, it is usually recommend to change dryer/expansion valve and sometimes in extreme cases, condenser -due to metal shaving in the system and/or acidly oil (cause by compressor overheat and cooks the oil). if you are experienced do it yourself-er, then great, if not, you better off go with a reputable shop and have it done which comes with warranty.
 

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Keep in mind that when AC Compressor fails- not talking about clutch failure but compressor internal failure, it is usually recommend to change dryer/expansion valve and sometimes in extreme cases, condenser -due to metal shaving in the system and/or acidly oil (cause by compressor overheat and cooks the oil). if you are experienced do it yourself-er, then great, if not, you better off go with a reputable shop and have it done which comes with warranty.
2004 CRV- Compressor replaced at least 4 times in 250k. Dealer wanted 2-3k to do it. Part of that is that at least on the CRV it was internal failure not clutch. The dealer changes everything front to back, soup to nuts. I bought the kit from RockAuto, only thing not with it was the hard metal lines which dealer changes also. Rock Auto would not warranty if you didn't show that you did a full flush also and replaced the expansion valve. I bought a flush gun and cleaner, no where near enough. AFTER doing the flush I used shop rags and trimmer line and made a bore-snake. The junk and silver particles coming off the inside of the metal tubing was crazy. All those small particles work their way back to the new compressor otherwise and start the cycle all over again. Replacing with all new HOPEFULLY prevents that. I spent a lot of time to clean them out. Shop time probably cheaper to replace the part then pay the labor.

Luckily forums and videos help, no lift. The entire front end has been off a couple times on the CRV. Once the fans, radiator, bumper cover, condensor were out it wasn't that bad to replace the compressor. :unsure: . The evaporator unit in the dash was a BIT more of a PITA.

If the Pilot and Odyssey are the same scenario it $ucks. Dealer won't change just the clutch so if not internal failure, evacuate, new compressor, re-charge.
 

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16 EXL AWD @ 67k miles
Apparently my A/C compressor is fried and the stealership quoted $2200 +/- as they would have to drop the subframe to get it out.

They did say that the VIN History shows AC issues before we got the car at 37k miles.

Going to get a local Honda specialty shop with good reviews to give me a quote, but I'm at a loss here.
I know I'm beyond the warranty period, but good grief... This seems crazy.
No you don’t drop the frame you slide it out the side below
 
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