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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know I ask a lot, but maybe I will be done at some point. 2013 exl 2wd 212k. So I have not taken it out on a highway very often. When on the highway I can feel the wheel go back and forth a bit. My first thoughts were the tires, which I am sure need to be replaced or at the least balanced. That is the simplest way to fix these issues, usually. My hesitation with it being the tire balance is that it only happens when accelerating. Meaning I dont feel it at all until I hit about 65 and up. And if I am doing say 70 and I let off the gas, it stops. If I gas it, it will happen until let's say 80, but when I let off the gas it stops. Any ideas? I haven't had many fwd cars I wrenched on, mostly they were newer cars I got rid of before this stuff could happen. The rest were rear wheel or 4wd. Thanks again.
 

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I know I ask a lot, but maybe I will be done at some point. 2013 exl 2wd 212k. So I have not taken it out on a highway very often. When on the highway I can feel the wheel go back and forth a bit. My first thoughts were the tires, which I am sure need to be replaced or at the least balanced. That is the simplest way to fix these issues, usually. My hesitation with it being the tire balance is that it only happens when accelerating. Meaning I dont feel it at all until I hit about 65 and up. And if I am doing say 70 and I let off the gas, it stops. If I gas it, it will happen until let's say 80, but when I let off the gas it stops. Any ideas? I haven't had many fwd cars I wrenched on, mostly they were newer cars I got rid of before this stuff could happen. The rest were rear wheel or 4wd. Thanks again.
I would suggest looking at cv axles as a possible culprit. Other front end parts such as tie rods or control arms can also cause vibration.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
At a glance the cv's look fine. Boots are clean, I know that only goes so far. If all goes well, my plans are to start on all the rubber bits and all other bushings struts shocks. And such. The lower control bushings I can see are cracked, but no leaks. I will save up parts, to do either front or back, but wait until I have all the stuff, so I am not doing the job more then once.
 

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At a glance the cv's look fine. Boots are clean, I know that only goes so far. If all goes well, my plans are to start on all the rubber bits and all other bushings struts shocks. And such. The lower control bushings I can see are cracked, but no leaks. I will save up parts, to do either front or back, but wait until I have all the stuff, so I am not doing the job more then once.
Ctrl Arm bushings can definitely attribute to problems as well. Defective bushing can definitely attribute to vibration.

If available, I would suggest just replacing the bushings. This is of course the ball joint on the Ctrl Arm is still good.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I dont have frame stands. I will, at some point, get some. I don't like accessing front ends stuff unless I can get the whole front or back off the ground. Besides what I can plainly see. Nothing looks grossly broken. The only thing I can see, is the cracked bushing in the compliance whatever it's called. I know there is the option of just that bushing or the whole thing. I don't remember the cost. Either both, or bushing and then whole thing. Thanks for the advise
 

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I had a throttle dependent vibration on our 2013. It was the inner cv joint on the passenger side axle. No signs of problems externally - it wasn’t leaking or anything.
 

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I had a throttle dependent vibration on our 2013. It was the inner cv joint on the passenger side axle. No signs of problems externally - it wasn’t leaking or anything.
Do you know anymore on how this was diagnosed if there weren't any signs of trouble? I ask because my 2011 AWD has a vibration when accelerating between 25-35mph and I cannot figure it out. I have balanced the tires, had it aligned, replaced shocks and upper mounts (b/c they needed it at 160k, vibration was there prior), new front sway bar end-links and bushings, new outer tie rod ends, motor mounts seem fine, compliance bushing were replaced at 75k, ball joints don't have any play. I just don't know what else to check.
 

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The only serious available diagnosis is to remove the driveshafts, clean the grease out of the inner drive joint housings, and inspect the housings for little divots that the bearings on that spider on the shaft tend to make in the housings. Once you have those, even small, the inner end of the driveshaft will move out of center and you'll get the vibration under load. The work to change is just a tiny bit more than the work to inspect, so get new spares in advance. By the 160k+ you report, you are likely due. High loads, high speeds and high miles are the major contributing factors to inner drive joint wear. The CV joints at the outside ends get all that plus angular displacement from steering. Folks in the group here have suggested that the Genuine Honda replacements are way better than the aftermarket pieces.
 
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Do you know anymore on how this was diagnosed if there weren't any signs of trouble? I ask because my 2011 AWD has a vibration when accelerating between 25-35mph and I cannot figure it out. I have balanced the tires, had it aligned, replaced shocks and upper mounts (b/c they needed it at 160k, vibration was there prior), new front sway bar end-links and bushings, new outer tie rod ends, motor mounts seem fine, compliance bushing were replaced at 75k, ball joints don't have any play. I just don't know what else to check.
Yeah, I had replaced everything else and the symptoms matched that of an inner cv joint problem. Ours was junk by 50k miles. I thought it was bad tires, then the compliance bushings, etc. In desperation I parts cannoned a passenger side axle. Instant fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The axels are on the list. With my cel fixed, I am next going to look at getting suspension stuff. I guess, by the time I undo everything to replace suspension stuff, I might as well replace the cv axel maybe ad well. Idk. I had planed on doing front, then back but maybe I do 1 wheel at a time, or just look to slowly buy all the parts. Or maybe I will win the lotto ( even more impressively because I never play) and can put a lift in the garage. Sure would help my back out.
 

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... put a lift in the garage. Sure would help my back out.
My only regret has been not doing this sooner. Old fart, several vehicles to still here play with, and the getting up and down from underneath has been taking a toll. I had a full lift in my rented toy cave for a couple decades, but kept that all separate from the home hobby workbay. A dozen years ago I broke down and added a mid-rise two-post lift at home, sold all the collectible junk from the rented spaces, and just have the home space now with a few seasonal toys to play with. The Max-Jax lift has been just right solution to home-shop needs. Picks the car up to a comfortable height, unbolts and rolls out of the way when not needed. There are some mid-rise scissor lifts that may offer similar benefits. Shop a little, and maybe cars won't fall on you.
 
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I am almost dumbfounded here. I have had the front-end shake (during acceleration, braking, and cruising at highway speeds) since March (well...it started before March, but it got much worse with time). Back in March I needed to have the driver's axle replaced because the outer CV was shot (I used an aftermarket axle). The shake then got worse and worse. I took the advice here and had Honda replace both axles with OEM units. The shake is totally gone now. No shake accelerating. No shake breaking (maybe some slight vibes from pad deposits), no shake cruising on the highway. I have replaced 10-12 axles in my life, and I always used aftermarket. I had never had 1 drop of a problem with them. I am blown away that an aftermarket part could cause such problems. Replace your axles with factory parts. Bye-bye shake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I am holding out in replacing my cv Axles until I replace the tires. I don't doubt 1 or both of my Axles may be my issue. Not sure I could say which 1. I may still use aftermarket as long as I can return. I understand some may have issues, but I bet many are sold without. Neither of mine currently show any issues. They both appear right as rain. It's just the wobble above 70. Maybe it's just the gas wasting gods telling me to keep it under 70. I hope it's made worse or the tires. I know those need to go, it has crappy walmart tires on the front and almost gone treaded Goodyear on the back. When the backs are done, I will do all 4. Even though the Walmart tires have some time left. I also hope some of the abrupt bounciness is the tires. I bet the tires won't fix these issues. I have a list. Gets longer all the time.
 

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I may still use aftermarket as long as I can return. I understand some may have issues, but I bet many are sold without.
I wouldn’t. There hasn’t been a single success story on here that I’ve seen with someone using aftermarket axles. The failure rate reported by people here so far is 100%. Not worth the time wasted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I wouldn’t. There hasn’t been a single success story on here that I’ve seen with someone using aftermarket axles. The failure rate reported by people here so far is 100%. Not worth the time wasted.
If this forum was a complete sample size, I may agree. I will take it into advisement, but I assume people have successfully purchased them from many retail establishments without feeling the need to address those on this forum. Uniquely forums like this supply mostly negative or at least problematic examples of there experience. I generally look for the balance between oem, oem aftermarket ( Mayne same company just sold outside honda) and aftermarket. I may enjoy steak at The Palm but still throw the dice at tacobell. I also would prefer woodpecker tools or festol but I also own many harbor freight items. Including the jack stands I will be precariously relying on while doing the job. I will also price it out before I go to do it. If it's close or within reason to get the honda stuff, I will. I won't If it is 3x the price. If it works, great. If not, I get to practice doing it.
 

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If this forum was a complete sample size, I may agree. I will take it into advisement, but I assume people have successfully purchased them from many retail establishments without feeling the need to address those on this forum. Uniquely forums like this supply mostly negative or at least problematic examples of there experience. I generally look for the balance between oem, oem aftermarket ( Mayne same company just sold outside honda) and aftermarket. I may enjoy steak at The Palm but still throw the dice at tacobell. I also would prefer woodpecker tools or festol but I also own many harbor freight items. Including the jack stands I will be precariously relying on while doing the job. I will also price it out before I go to do it. If it's close or within reason to get the honda stuff, I will. I won't If it is 3x the price. If it works, great. If not, I get to practice doing it.
Sure and generally I would agree with you for most things, but the experience has been quite poor posted here. I’m glad you’re in a position where doing the job twice doesn’t bother you. I am not in that situation at all and have zero tolerance for it regardless of cost.

Be advised too that one member experienced catastrophic failure leaving the car immobilized due to aftermarket axles approximately a year after installation. Your call.
 

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Even though the Walmart tires have some time left. I also hope some of the abrupt bounciness is the tires. I bet the tires won't fix these issues
The abrupt bounciness could be the under inflated or worn unmatched tires. Inspect the shocks/struts as well as the other suspension bits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The tires are all the same psi, 35 I think. I only know this because I had the first cold night, low tire pressure pop up. Good this was its the rear Goodyear, which are push wear limits. I know it needs suspension work. Front and rear, left and right. I am trying to space it all out. I also don't want to have to purchase oem for everything. If I can swing it, ideally I would be able to purchase all the suspension and cv Axles, so I can deconstruct and reconstruct with new stuff all around. As long as nothing jumps out at me. But that's alot of cheddar, with tires too.
 
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