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High pitch wine, Speed related but not RPM related??

724 Views 30 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  Maritime
OK so I have a high pitch wine starting on the 2011. I changed VTM-4 as it's been 30-40K miles, it was clean and did nothing. Last time I got this type of noise my drive shaft was seizing and stressing things so I checked that. Unbolted front and rear and U-Joints are moving fine center bearing is tight and no slop. I jacked it up and spun and push/pulled on all the wheels and no play in bearings, they are tight, things spin fine BUT there was a slight drag on one brake half way around each rotation that may be a slight rotor warp. Would that be enough to have a loud whirring/wine at 50-70 MPH? I will pull that wheel and address the drag with a grinder if need be but what else could this be I might be overlooking. It starts at 30 and builds to 70 and is pretty consistent. As you come to a stop you can hear it whirr down until 30ish then goes quiet. If it was pully's or alternator etc. I would expect it to change with RPM on the engine and it doesn't at all. Revving at a stop = no noise. Have to be moving. A bit stumped. Gonna pull the wheel with the drag and try and fix that but give me thoughts on other things. Maybe it is a bearing and it's just not gone far enough to have play, but how do I find which of the 4 to change. 136K Miles on original wheel bearings.

Thanks

Maritime
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Well a trip to HF and I got a new breaker bar 25" and a press, they only had the 12 Ton but it's been improved since the bad reviews. It went together and would have worked if I had some more plates to stack. I was shy on solid metal stand offs to get the hub level and it kept slipping out of the press. once the big socket I was pressing with shot out and hit my arm, big bruise and instant egg, ouch. Anyway heres how it went for those in the rust belt thinking of doing this. First is axle nut. that sucker was TIGHT and rusty, so I went with mild heat, PB blaster, mild heat, PB, repeat for 4-5 cycles over about an hour or 2, that was after applying PB liberally Friday 4-5 times. Added a 2' pipe to the breaker bar and gave it hell. Broke 1 extension and then with the second one it came free. After that it was easy to get the hub and knuckle out, cleaned up and on the press. That failed Sat so I took a break, back at it Sun with some more steel I found around my scraps but still failed with the above^^ result. So I swallowed my pride and Monday I drove my wife to work, then took it to the shop I trust and asked if they could separate the hub and knuckle. They said yes, give them a bit so went home, did some other odd jobs until they called at noon. Charged me a whopping $20.00 so was very happy, Home again, torqued the hub bolts, installed and torqued everything else and went for a test drive. All the bad grinding and vibrations are gone but there is still a very faint whine that means the other bearing is likely going to go so the RA order landing tomorrow will go in as soon as it gets louder. Knowing the shop will pop it for $20 I am going to plan to pull the hub, in the evening and drop at the shop on the way to work and pick it up on the way home and re-install. Won't even bother to try it myself unless I can find some better supports for under the knuckle. It's not flat anywhere and the supports just want to slide out as soon as you apply pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Well F, after the swap. the test drive was pretty quiet, just a faint noise. After a 40 mile trip it's as loud as it was without the vibrations so either it wasn't the bearing or the other side is failing quick. ETA is tonight for the RA unit so will likely get that done over the weekend and I am also worried my drive shaft is going bad so I hope to find the U-Joints that can swap in as the aftermarket shaft has circlips and changeable joints vs. the OEM staked in joints. Just need a part number or dimensions.
 

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Good luck on the Drive shaft. It isn't designed to be serviced, but you can make it work with some custom work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Good luck on the Drive shaft. It isn't designed to be serviced, but you can make it work with some custom work.
I have an aftermarket one I installed a year or so ago and it has Circlips and replaceable U-Joints. I just need the right replacements so I am going to message the company I bought it from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Aftermarket ones are known to be crap. I would look into getting OEM from a junkyard and see about fixing it. Otherwise you might be redoing this over and over again. Is it SKP?
Oh I tried the junk yard and they were all worse than mine. I kept my OEM but when removing the staked in U-Joints the holes ended up all damaged and new joints would not have pressed in. At least with the aftermarket its got the circlips and should allow the U-joints to press out clean. I'm hoping to find greasable ones that I can grease 2x a year to keep them from ceasing from rust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Ok, so I am pulling the drive shaft tonight, I found U-Joints on Ebay and if they are bad will be changing them out. I know front are ok but I couldn't tell the rear when I checked without fully dropping the shaft so I will do that tonight as I have to rotate the tires anyway so will have it jacked up on stands. If it ends up being the shaft I'll be pissed I spent $$ on the bearing but oh well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Oh and when I was putting the hub and brakes back on after the bearing swap, I lost a squeal spring, so I didn't want to put just one in, left them out and of course the pads squeal on every stop. So I was about to drop $15 on a hardware set tonight only to find the spring, stuck to the bottom of my boots! I looked all over the floor for that thing LOL. I just happed to knock my boot over as I was trying to put my foot in it and there it was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
ugg fucker. pulled drive shaft noise is gone gone gone. Looks like center bearing failure as the 2 u joints move ok. but noise is loud and it looks fubared. Can it be chnaged?????
 
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