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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK so I have a high pitch wine starting on the 2011. I changed VTM-4 as it's been 30-40K miles, it was clean and did nothing. Last time I got this type of noise my drive shaft was seizing and stressing things so I checked that. Unbolted front and rear and U-Joints are moving fine center bearing is tight and no slop. I jacked it up and spun and push/pulled on all the wheels and no play in bearings, they are tight, things spin fine BUT there was a slight drag on one brake half way around each rotation that may be a slight rotor warp. Would that be enough to have a loud whirring/wine at 50-70 MPH? I will pull that wheel and address the drag with a grinder if need be but what else could this be I might be overlooking. It starts at 30 and builds to 70 and is pretty consistent. As you come to a stop you can hear it whirr down until 30ish then goes quiet. If it was pully's or alternator etc. I would expect it to change with RPM on the engine and it doesn't at all. Revving at a stop = no noise. Have to be moving. A bit stumped. Gonna pull the wheel with the drag and try and fix that but give me thoughts on other things. Maybe it is a bearing and it's just not gone far enough to have play, but how do I find which of the 4 to change. 136K Miles on original wheel bearings.

Thanks

Maritime
 

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OK so I have a high pitch wine starting on the 2011. I changed VTM-4 as it's been 30-40K miles, it was clean and did nothing. Last time I got this type of noise my drive shaft was seizing and stressing things so I checked that. Unbolted front and rear and U-Joints are moving fine center bearing is tight and no slop. I jacked it up and spun and push/pulled on all the wheels and no play in bearings, they are tight, things spin fine BUT there was a slight drag on one brake half way around each rotation that may be a slight rotor warp. Would that be enough to have a loud whirring/wine at 50-70 MPH? I will pull that wheel and address the drag with a grinder if need be but what else could this be I might be overlooking. It starts at 30 and builds to 70 and is pretty consistent. As you come to a stop you can hear it whirr down until 30ish then goes quiet. If it was pully's or alternator etc. I would expect it to change with RPM on the engine and it doesn't at all. Revving at a stop = no noise. Have to be moving. A bit stumped. Gonna pull the wheel with the drag and try and fix that but give me thoughts on other things. Maybe it is a bearing and it's just not gone far enough to have play, but how do I find which of the 4 to change. 136K Miles on original wheel bearings.

Thanks

Maritime
Just had to replace a rear wheel bearing on the 306k mile Crosstour, there was no play in the wheel yet, just the whirring. It was obvious from inside the cabin that it was coming from the passenger rear. Are you able to detect a side? Someone riding in the back might could detect.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Just had to replace a rear wheel bearing on the 306k mile Crosstour, there was no play in the wheel yet, just the whirring. It was obvious from inside the cabin that it was coming from the passenger rear. Are you able to detect a side? Someone riding in the back might could detect.
I seems right and seems back. It's getting louder so may clearly be found in a few hundred more miles. I may just order 2 rear bearings and nuts from RA nd put them on the shelf to have on the ready. The Timkin's are low enough cost. Crappy NAPA here local are over $230 CAD each the Timkin were about $130 shipped so 2 for one

Correction Timkin are $160 CAD FOR 2. Way better deal.
 

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Do you torque the lug nuts down on the wheels? Usually what happens is the unevenly torqued lug nuts cause warping in the rotors after you have been braking making them hot, and hit water which cools them rapidly and causes the warping.
You could also have a stuck caliper. Check the guide pins while you are in there checking things out. Move them in and out and see if they have seized. They will seize from mixing petroleum based grease with silicone. You need silicone grease on these pins. The petroleum based greases cause rubber to soften and swell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you torque the lug nuts down on the wheels? Usually what happens is the unevenly torqued lug nuts cause warping in the rotors after you have been braking making them hot, and hit water which cools them rapidly and causes the warping.
You could also have a stuck caliper. Check the guide pins while you are in there checking things out. Move them in and out and see if they have seized. They will seize from mixing petroleum based grease with silicone. You need silicone grease on these pins. The petroleum based greases cause rubber to soften and swell.
We did have the lugs come loose just before on 3 out of 4 wheels. I checked all the calipers and none are dragging but now I am wondering about the warping. I had put the steel wheels and winter tires on and hit them with the impact till it stops, never bother with a torque wrench on them. We had been driving for a month no issues BUT we had a lot of ice on the sitters drive and we slid sideways and fetched hard on the driveway when we hit a bare spot. It was right after that the lugs got loose on 3 of the 4 wheels. The are really rusty so I assumed the hard sideways fetch broke the rust and allowed them to come lose. I tightened them all up and they have been since. I'm gonna pull all the wheels and check the brakes close for warping. I use a Permatex silicone slide grease. thanks for the info gives me a starting point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There are some things you can just snug down, and other things a torque wrench are required. Lug nuts would be one of those things that require torque wrench. Harbor freight sells them real cheap. It's better then nothing.
LOL I have one and use it on my Alloys every time the come off and on, But steelies I just hit it full blast with the impact until it stops this is the first time in 30+ years my steel wheels needed a re-torque and I can tell it was the rust, Chunks of it came off all around the lug nuts, 1/8" thick under the paint. I may be scrapping these winter wheels because of that.
 

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There are a lot of reasons why you shouldn't impact or not torque lug nuts. In addition to the damage to the threads, lug nuts, stretching lugs, damaging wheels, warping rotors, but what could have happened in your case, was when you go around once go around again. The first lug you tighten will be loose, as you tighten all the others. Since the first lug has all the tension, and when you tighten the other lugs the first lug loses that tension and now you have a loose lug. I always go around twice. Sometimes 3 times, if I notice one tightens a little as I go around a 2nd time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There are a lot of reasons why you shouldn't impact or not torque lug nuts. In addition to the damage to the threads, lug nuts, stretching lugs, damaging wheels, warping rotors, but what could have happened in your case, was when you go around once go around again. The first lug you tighten will be loose, as you tighten all the others. Since the first lug has all the tension, and when you tighten the other lugs the first lug loses that tension and now you have a loose lug. I always go around twice. Sometimes 3 times, if I notice one tightens a little as I go around a 2nd time.
I always tighten 3 times. once around in the star pattern, then again, then 1 more time. I will take your advice and stop torquing the steel wheels with the impact. I always when doing alloys, snug, then torque around in star pattern, then do it again. Then put the torque wrench in the vehicle and watch the lugs, listen and when I take the first drive to work, about 20 miles, Pull it out, set it and retorque. Then it goes back in the shop. I'll just start doing that on the winter steel wheels. I have found of all the vehicles I've owned only 2 have had lugs loosen up while driving. This pilot at least 3 times over the 3.5 years I've owned it, but first 2 times were alloy's properly torqued, and an Acura that the alloys would loosen every time even if I added some extra ft lbs. over spec. So that's why I put the wrench in the car and watch it for the first 20-50 miles. Now the steel wheels were over 2000 miles before the got loose which has to be the rust chunks. When I pull them to check the brakes I will hit them with a wire wheel and check the seats on the rim and if sketchy put my AT Tires and wheels on and find a new set of wheels for winter tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So I did my oil change and transmission drain and fill last night, pulled the wheel and cleaned up and spun the disk till there was no drag anywhere in the rotation. Took it for a drive and now the whirring is gone and its just a steady droning sound that gets louder so wheel bearing and nut on the way from RA. Paid for standard shipping so ETA is next week but usually it's faster so if it lands by Fri it will get swapped on the weekend. What size is the front axle nut? I need to check if I have the right socket for it.
 

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So I did my oil change and transmission drain and fill last night, pulled the wheel and cleaned up and spun the disk till there was no drag anywhere in the rotation. Took it for a drive and now the whirring is gone and its just a steady droning sound that gets louder so wheel bearing and nut on the way from RA. Paid for standard shipping so ETA is next week but usually it's faster so if it lands by Fri it will get swapped on the weekend. What size is the front axle nut? I need to check if I have the right socket for it.
This may help…
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
This may help…
Thanks! I just watched a youtube on a guy doing this exact thing in the rust belt on a Pilot as rusty as mine. I may need access to a press so I will need to think about that. I may be getting a new tool in the shop as to pay someone to do this will cost as much as a small 12 ton press.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well bearing is really loud now. New arrives next week says Wed, hope sooner. The press I will get from HF is the 20 ton, better reviews and only a few $$ more. Only problem is, "In Stock Soon" is on it and has been for weeks, I hope it lands in my store before I need it. Other wise next closest that has one is 2.5 hours from me and really not saving if I have to drive that far to get it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Guy on youtube rust belt repairs tried one of those and it stripped out and bearing didn't move. His press was the only thing that budged it. He said, "I watched some dude in like California do one of these and he just pulled it right out, well if you live in the rust belt be prepared for a lot worse."

So to add to the saga, driving to work this am it really got bad, started vibrating. Damn. So I went to Napa on the chance the owner was going to be in, he was, He's a old drinking buddy so I asked what he had and what he can do on price. He had an SKF and took $100 off the retail for me so I got it for $200 CAD about $140 USD. $90 CAD more than RA one coming but I feel like if the right bearing is toast, the left isn't far behind so will shelve the RA for future use. Will be jacking up the thing shortly and hitting it with wire wheel and PB blaster to soak for a few hours before attempting the swap.
 
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