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Discussion Starter #1
I've seen various threads concerning speaker replacement in the Pilot. What I'm not sure about is which of the choices is the "best" or at least, requires the least modifications to make fit/connect.

The choices are:

Infinity Kappa 62.5i
Infinity Reference 552i (front doors only?)
Infinity Refernce 652i (all doors or just rear)

I don't like the way the currrent speakers sound when playing DVDs. People keep complaining that the sound only comes from the front speakers. If we turn up the volume, the driver gets blasted out.

Right now I have the fade set to R+3 to R+5.

CDs and the Radio sound fine.
 

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I believe the stock speakers are more than adequate. I would recommend getting an amplifier first before replacing the speakers. I replaced the all four speakers with Infinity Kappa 62.5i and they sound really clear but way underpowered. What you need is to try out a good amplifier first before replacing the speakers. The Kappa's sound really clear but I can barely turn up the volume no more than the stock speakers. Therefore, I am having an amp, Rockford Fosgate Punch 700X, installed tomorrow. Also replacing my subwoofer with Bazooka.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Where is the amp being installed? I'm putting stuff under the driver & passenger seat already so I don't have that space available.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, assuming I really do want to replace my speakers, my original question still stands. Which of these makes the most sense and is easiest to install?

Also, it's been mentioned that an AMP would be usefull to really crank up the sound. Since I already plan fill up the space under the drivers and passengers seats, where can I install the AMP so that it is out of the way - yet accessable?

I can't use the storage space in the back since it's full of kid related crap already.

Could I mount it to under the XM radio bracket that is under the driver's seat? It looks like it might sit above the floorboards some.

Ideas?
 

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Upgrade experience

gksmith said:
Ok, assuming I really do want to replace my speakers, my original question still stands. Which of these makes the most sense and is easiest to install?

Also, it's been mentioned that an AMP would be usefull to really crank up the sound. Since I already plan fill up the space under the drivers and passengers seats, where can I install the AMP so that it is out of the way - yet accessable?

I can't use the storage space in the back since it's full of kid related crap already.

Could I mount it to under the XM radio bracket that is under the driver's seat? It looks like it might sit above the floorboards some.

Ideas?
I recently completed a sound system upgrade consisting of new Infinity Reference 652i's in all 4 doors (installed myself with the help of info found on this site) and a Rockford Fosgate Punch 500x amp, which eventually was mounted under the passenger's seat. Best Buy tech's originally did not want to install the amp under the seat because of the floor vents that carry heat/ac to the rear seats. They recommended mounting the amp on the back of the 2nd row seat. They did not want to use the storage compartment because of lack of ventilation (the amp does throw off some heat). After I rejected the seat back mounting spot and decided not to go ahead w/ the installation, their manager then decided to give the OK to go under seat. Sound quality and volume is AWESOME........seldom get it above 2.......and have had no problems with air flow. If you do get an amp, be careful with power....the Infinity's can only handle 60w RMS, and the RF 500x is putting out 62.5 per speaker, so I am a tad over limit, but OK. And as I said, the improvement is super!!!!!!!!! The tech's could think of no other spot to put the amp,BTW............
 

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gksmith... The speakers that are easy to install would be the Infinity Reference 652i and 552i as recommended by Crutchfield. They are direct fit for replacement. There was a post I read somewhere, someone mentioned that 652i would fits both front and rear doors. The Kappa would require you to cut the metal doors to fit and lots of modifications.

I had my Rockford Fosgate 700x installed in the storage compartment. It is a perfect fit. I am not too worry about the heat because I normally leave the storage lid opened. I also got the Bazooka subwoofer strapped down behind the 3rd row seat. The reason is that I normally turn up the music loud only when I'm driving by myself. I leave the lid open and the sub strapped. When I have children in the car, can't turn the music up anyway so I just have to close the storage lid, detach the subwoofer and store it at home. The children would watch the DVD and I can listen to music with front speakers. With the low volume, I don't think it would be any problem with the heat even if the storage lid is closed. Although I think the best place to mount the amp would be under the front passenger seat. I didn't installed it there because I want to leave the space for future CD changer to be installed there. Hope that helps.

The problem I got now is that the Auto Day/Night Mirror vibrate so bad compared the stock mirror when I turn the music volume up. I tried the installing the stock mirror back on and regardless of how loud I turn up the volume, it would not vibrate at all. I think the Auto D/N Mirror ball hinge is not as tight as the stock.
 

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gksmith: The 652i's fit in all four doors. Why go with 552i's? I currently have th3 652i's as my only upgrade, and it sounds much better. Even with the sub hooked up, although a little boomy.

I get my Sony CDX-M850MP on Wednesday. I'm going to try it without the sub before getting the Rockford Fosgate 501X amp.

bobslez: I thought the second row heat/air came from the center console. Is there a heat vent under the seat?
Also, what are you using to power the sub? I'm thinking of keeping the stock sub and powering it with a bridge/crossover called the PAC TM-100. The front channel will power the fronts and the tweets, while the rear channel will power the rears and the bridged sub.
 

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Ferdball said:
...I thought the second row heat/air came from the center console. Is there a heat vent under the seat?...
There are vents under both front seats and under the second row. Heat or cold is distributed to all three rows when set to "floor".
 

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hmmmm......

Ferdball......

bobslez: I thought the second row heat/air came from the center console. Is there a heat vent under the seat?
Also, what are you using to power the sub? I'm thinking of keeping the stock sub and powering it with a bridge/crossover called the PAC TM-100. The front channel will power the fronts and the tweets, while the rear channel will power the rears and the bridged sub. [/B][/QUOTE]

I checked owners manual and it is unclear on vents. Diagrams on page 129 and 132 show airflow, but do not mention vents. I dunno............

Checked out your Crutchfield link and it sounds like your idea will work, but you may need a good sized amp when bridging. Run the idea by a good installer for input.

The RF Punch 500x is a 4 ch amp and I use it to power the 652's in all 4 doors. The tweets and sub are (for now) powered by the stock amp. The 652's kinda overwhelm the sub, and I can see a dedicated amp under drivers seat in the near future. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm going with (4) Inifinity 6002i speakers from Etronics. They have them for the same price as most people are selling the Infinity 652i speakers. The 6002i is the 2003 model of the speaker.

I also ordered an Alpine MRV-F340 multi-channel (55 watts RMS x 4) amplifier. I will probably mount this under the 3rd row since I don't forsee every using the area under the seat for intentional storage.
 

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The real deal about speakers

Here is the real deal on speakers from someone who knows:

The reason you r factory speakers sound poor compared to aftermarket is that they have paper cones. They are cheaply made. They will never sound as good as aftermarket speakers.

About adding an amp to factory speakers: DONT! The factory speakers actually sound acceptable (almost) when used with the rest of the factory audio system. That's because all of the components are matched to each other. There is a very small amplifier for the 6 main speakers and a 40 watt amplifier for the sub (if you want to call it that. It should be called a mid-bass driver). If you were to add an aftermarket amplifier to these speakers you are really risking damage to the speakers from overpowering them.

Here's why: The speakers probably have a power rating stamped on the underside of them. Previous Honda speakers that I have replace did. They might say like 50W or 35W or something like that. Even though that implies that they are capapble of handling 35 or 50 Watts of power - that is a peak rating not a continous power rating. Peak power will hit for a fraction of a second to produce a strong bass note or something. Most of the time your speakers are getting much less power - maybe 10 or 12 watts.

If you add an amp that is delivering 35 watts continous or RMS power you will damage the speakers because they are not meant to handle that kind of power all the time.
 

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My recommendation for speaker replacement.upgrade

If I were in the position to upgrade the speakers in my PILOT, which I wish I was, I would have to replace the speakers and add probably 2 amps.

Replace your speakers in the main seating area (the doors and the tweeters in the dash) with something like Infininty. Crutchfield has great instructions and the speakers are a very easy fit. I hear that the kappa series requires cutting metal so avoid them unless your wallet is fat.

In the back you would do best to have a reputable shop fabricate a new sub enclosure in the same place as the current sub. The reason for this is that Honda left virtually no mounting depth behind that panel. It is tough to find a good sub to fit in there. You are going to pay a little extra for the custom work, but at a good shop, it will be worth it. I really like having the current sub over there because I need to have the cargo room available. Also upgrade to at least a 10 inch (better yet a 12 inch) sub for better bass.

As for amps, I would go with a 4-channel amp that puts out a continuous (RMS power) of around 50 watts per channel. ($200 - $400). Then get about a 200 Watt by 1 channel amp for the new sub. You really can't mount it in an enclosed area. Amps throw off a lot of heat unless you get a digital amp which is really expensive. Mount the amp on the back of one of the seats so it gets good air flow. Under the seat probably works too but you're not getting as much air movement to cool it off.

If you follow these guidelines, you should have good sound. You should also seriously consider a new head unit if you haven't replaced that already.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sounds like I'm pretty close. The amp I selected a 4 channel amp that does 55w RMS. I'm not too worried about the sub just yet because the thump, thump a good one generates gives my wife a headache ( :D not the fake ones :D ).
 

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Just a couple of notes from an "almost audiophile"......

In any system, car or home, the speakers are generally the best place to sink the bulk of your budget. Watts next (amplifier), then source (CD, tuner, etc).....cables last (in my opinion.....)

I am sure there are people that will disagree with me.....BUT -

From my view -
Think of it this way - speakers are what actually gets the sound to your ears. A bad set of speakers (like the ones that scome with the Pilot, and EVERY new car out there.......I don't care what car it is) can really make a decent system sound rotten. On the other hand, a really good set of speakers (and MY definition of a good set of speakers....speakers that add nothing if little to the music - distortion, coloration, etc, etc.)....can make an o.k. system sound awful in that they will pass on to the listener all of the blemishes on the recording, CD player, etc, etc.

Not to mention that in a car, it is generally easiest to drop in a nw set of speakers and replace the old ones, rather than deal with all the wiring involved with amplifiers (or paying someone to do it).

Regarding amplifiers......
The first watt is the most important. What I mean is this - don't pay too much attention to wattage ratings. I could post 1,000 lines on this, but the bottom line is this - many companies overstate their wattage ratings (or report thm in a way that leads you to believe something that may not be true in the real world) As far as adding noise - unless you go with a really bad amp or the wiring is bad, I doubt much noise will be added. The OEM head unit on the Pilot is pretty good - so a decent amp will not add noticable noise.

I won't get into recommending brands......but I will give one example:
I would rather have a 30Watt amp from a company like McIntosh Labs anyday over a "Circuit City" brand amp with double, even triple the wattage rating. Anyone that is into audio like I am knows this.......

Grain of salt -

Not everyone cares about the same things when it comes to audio......sooooo.....go with your ears and not necessarily your wallet. A simple speaker upgrade is probably the biggest bang for the buck with the Pilot OEM system. A decent amp next, fancy head unit last.

In case anyone cares ar this point......I'll probably end up getting a nice set of BA's and a 4 channel McIntosh amp.

Just one guy's opinion........

Check out sites like www.carreview.com and www.audioreview.com for more on this.......

Oh - one more note - as far as installing amps on the back of your seat. Why? Unless you want that High-schooler show-off look that is completely impractical, don't bother. There is PLENTY of room under the seats for most amps these days...including breathing room.
 
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