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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2012 EXL-RES and I must have done something stupid, but I was testing out some new front turn signal bulbs and popped something and now my turn signals do not work at all (both left, right and hazards). No clicking, no light, no noise.. nothing! Headlight, DRL, fog light, parking lights all work.

I checked fuse 15 (interior fuse box) and it was blown and I replaced it and used my multimeter to verify the fuse is good. But I've checked every mini fuse in the interior and checked all of the minifuses under the hood (both locations) and all check out fine. I don't have a fuse box in the rear quarter, so that is a non-issue.

I am only thinking I killed the flasher too, but I don't even know where that is. Online manuals have not been very clear.

Appreciate any help/suggestions.

Thanks,
Daren
 

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I have a 2012 EXL-RES and I must have done something stupid, but I was testing out some new front turn signal bulbs and popped something and now my turn signals do not work at all (both left, right and hazards). No clicking, no light, no noise.. nothing! Headlight, DRL, fog light, parking lights all work.



I checked fuse 15 (interior fuse box) and it was blown and I replaced it and used my multimeter to verify the fuse is good. But I've checked every mini fuse in the interior and checked all of the minifuses under the hood (both locations) and all check out fine. I don't have a fuse box in the rear quarter, so that is a non-issue.



I am only thinking I killed the flasher too, but I don't even know where that is. Online manuals have not been very clear.



Appreciate any help/suggestions.



Thanks,

Daren
You blew the turn signal fuse. When buying LED turn signal and brake bulbs for the Pilot they must be CK type led bulbs.


Don't be a dummy, buckle your seatbelt.
 

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according to the Service manual for your year check the fuse box with the following under the dash

fuse

14 7.5A
15 10A
19 15A
They all tie into each other for the signals
 

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I have a 2012 EXL-RES and I must have done something stupid, but I was testing out some new front turn signal bulbs and popped something and now my turn signals do not work at all (both left, right and hazards). No clicking, no light, no noise.. nothing! Headlight, DRL, fog light, parking lights all work.



I checked fuse 15 (interior fuse box) and it was blown and I replaced it and used my multimeter to verify the fuse is good. But I've checked every mini fuse in the interior and checked all of the minifuses under the hood (both locations) and all check out fine. I don't have a fuse box in the rear quarter, so that is a non-issue.



I am only thinking I killed the flasher too, but I don't even know where that is. Online manuals have not been very clear.



Appreciate any help/suggestions.



Thanks,

Daren
Replace all the related fuses--one may look good but could have the smallest hard to notice break. If it's not a fuse there might be another replaceable control part like a relay in the fuse box....I vaguely remember replacing a part many years ago in a civic.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Yes, clearly, and I stated as much, but, unfortunately, replacing the fuse did not solve the problem. Neither did swapping out the relays on the inside fuse box. I retested all the fuses with a multimeter and all test good.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If the LED bulb/s is/are still in place the fuse/s will still blow /QUOTE]

Of course:grin:. I took the one that blew the fuse out and replaced with the formerly working bulbs. The fuses are fine.
 

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Circuit and current flow path description:

Battery positive through No. 1 main fuse (120A) branches to No. 2 IG fuse (50A), both in the main under-hood fuse/relay box. To ignition switch. Flows then to No. 10 (7.5A) in under-dash fuse relay box for all ignition-on required circuits.

Battery positive through No. 1 main fuse (50A) branches to No. 23 IG fuse (10A), both in the main under-hood fuse/relay box. Diode-isolated to VBU.

There's a second flow path available to the LPD/MICU (part of the under-dash fuse/relay box) via No. 7 (15A) in the aux under-hood fuse/relay box.

I would look hard at the 15A fuse at position 7 in the aux under-hood fuse/relay box.
If that doesn't solve, I would REPLACE the 7.5A fuse (that you tested...) at position 10 in the under-dash fuse/relay panel.


From 22-283 in the workshop manual.


Fuse 15 (10A) in the under-dash fuse and relay panel protects the running lights, including the parking lights, marker lights, and license plate lights.
 

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Start back-tracking...

If your positive that your fuses are good, I would use a multi-meter and start confirming 12v power to the hot side of each signal fuse terminal.
 

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Start back-tracking...

If your positive that your fuses are good, I would use a multi-meter and start confirming 12v power to the hot side of each signal fuse terminal.
Honda correctly uses fuses to protect wiring segments between devices. Not every fuse has 12V on one side all te time. Meanwhile, the workshop manuals offer detailed wiring and interconnect diagrams, including current flow paths through fuses. Diagnosing without the current flow paths is a crapshoot at best. In my educated opinion anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Circuit and current flow path description:

Battery positive through No. 1 main fuse (120A) branches to No. 2 IG fuse (50A), both in the main under-hood fuse/relay box. To ignition switch. Flows then to No. 10 (7.5A) in under-dash fuse relay box for all ignition-on required circuits.

Battery positive through No. 1 main fuse (50A) branches to No. 23 IG fuse (10A), both in the main under-hood fuse/relay box. Diode-isolated to VBU.

There's a second flow path available to the LPD/MICU (part of the under-dash fuse/relay box) via No. 7 (15A) in the aux under-hood fuse/relay box.

I would look hard at the 15A fuse at position 7 in the aux under-hood fuse/relay box.
If that doesn't solve, I would REPLACE the 7.5A fuse (that you tested...) at position 10 in the under-dash fuse/relay panel.


From 22-283 in the workshop manual.


Fuse 15 (10A) in the under-dash fuse and relay panel protects the running lights, including the parking lights, marker lights, and license plate lights.
Dr. Bob. You nailed it. I don't know how I missed it, but it was the 15a fuse at position 7 (fuse box under hood next to battery). I could have sworn I tested that with my multimeter and it was good under continuity test. Sorry all for doing a stupid. Much obliged for the help.
 

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Dr. Bob. You nailed it. I don't know how I missed it, but it was the 15a fuse at position 7 (fuse box under hood next to battery). I could have sworn I tested that with my multimeter and it was good under continuity test. Sorry all for doing a stupid. Much obliged for the help.
For quality CK LED bulbs go to VLEDS

Don't be a dummy, buckle your seatbelt.
 

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Dr. Bob. You nailed it. I don't know how I missed it, but it was the 15a fuse at position 7 (fuse box under hood next to battery). I could have sworn I tested that with my multimeter and it was good under continuity test. Sorry all for doing a stupid. Much obliged for the help.
Glad it worked out for you. The purpose of the forum is to allow owners to help owners. Someday, I'll blow a fuse and need the community support. For you, thankfully, it was just a car fuse. :wink:
 
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