Oh and they said after sitting overnight today they pulled the spark plug for #5 and it was clean as could be
No honestly wasn't something I ever even thought about. Up until the moment it happened everything ran smooth and good.Definitely possible that you could have a burned valve. Have the valves ever been adjusted?
I had mentioned a vcm device a year ago to my mechanic, he said he's never done one. Very interested in that also. Any suggestions on one?once the valve cover is off they can really see what is going on with that cylinders rockers while also performing the necessary leak-down test to find out where the pressure is going like previous post said. the shop could also borescope the cylinder thru the plug hole while the valves are open to see their condition. hopefully they don't have to pull the head to do any valve work. at that point it might make more sense to drop on another head depending on labor costs associated with a valve replacement.
definitely needs a VCM disabling device installed once this issue is resolved.
again, all it might need is a valve adjustment too!
They did not specify bc I didn't ask. I'm unaware of what to ask really. I'm assuming dry, bc they said they checked it and it was clean and dry??Did they say they did a dry and wet compression test? If they didn't do a wet compression test on that cylinder, you need to go to another mechanic.
Well oil basically because I've only put a little less than 20k on it, and the mechanic says I don't need specific things yet bc they're fine (spark plugs ect) I've done other things like brakes, rotors, wheel bearings. But not fluids. Except oilI fear to ask, but besides oil changes, what else did you do? Timing belt, filters, spark plugs, any of the other fluids, etc..?
They did say at first it was a coil. But the new coil and plug was put in and the misfire moved? Unfortunately I work during there hours of operation and now have no vehicle so I can't get there to speak in personIf they said they moved the coil and spark plug and the misfire moved with the coil and spark plug, they could narrow it down to that coil or plug. Which would likely be the coil, but they should move 1 at a time to find out which is bad. They should have been able to advice you on the bad coil, but seems they didn't.
Having low compression is different then having no compression. Is there a way to get the compression reading from them? Both wet and dry compression readings.
If it's zero compression, it would very likely be an issue with the valves or associated parts. This would be unfortunate if it requires a head removal. Opening the valve cover and looking at the associated parts would be ideal. Hopefully something on top the head has failed, and not the actual valve.
I would have them show you in person that you are getting no compression in that cylinder before you proceed.
Worry about this issue first, then you can worry about that. The VCM megathread is your friend:I had mentioned a vcm device a year ago to my mechanic, he said he's never done one. Very interested in that also. Any suggestions on one?
Well called today to see..and they haven't touched my vehicle. It's a small local shop , and they're busy. Only 2 workers so they said there going to try to get it in the bay ,as soon as they can that they have to take the top of my motor off . Assuming its going to be awhile before I even know anything.Worry about this issue first, then you can worry about that. The VCM megathread is your friend:
The VCM mega thread - what is VCM, does my vehicle have...This thread explains all the key details regarding VCM. Rather than re-explaining everything about VCM to every new forum member, they can simply be directed here. Self-service FTW! While there will be plenty of discussion in this thread, this first post contains the key information, so reading...www.piloteers.org
So if I do keep this vehicle . What do you suggest for maintenance ? And I'm assuming they will tell me price and what they findSorry, I was under the impression you had owned it new. Hopefully the old owners did the timing belt, and valve lash before selling it to you, along with fresh fluids, unfortunately without knowing, they could have sold it to you because they didn't want to do those things, which would have been the mileage you purchased it at.
How much are they charging you to take the "top of the motor off"? They shouldn't be performing any work before discussing how much it will cost so you don't get slapped with a huge bill. "Top of the motor", could be valve cover or head. Valve cover not so bad, head very bad. They should do a leak down test before taking off the head, and definitely talk to you about pricing first.