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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2006 Honda Pilot alarm will not deactivate. The keyless remote entry clicker's battery died a few weeks ago, we replaced the battery, and everything was fine until today. Suddenly, the key remote entry stopped working again, and replacing the battery did not help this time. Not that the battery should have died within 2 weeks anyways. Also, the car is not recognizing the key when we put it manually into the driver side door or the ignition. Car will unlock with the key, but the alarm sounds for the two full minutes. Anytime we open any door the alarm will go off. I have read that using our key in the driver side door is supposed to stop or reset the alarm, but that is not happening for us.

I have considered pulling the fuse for the horn so that it will at least be quiet until we can fix it. However, the fuse diagram in my owner's manual says fuse #7 in the primary under-hood fuse box is a 20amp fuse that protects circuits for "Stop, Horn".

What would happen if I pull this fuse? Will I lose my stop or brake lights? Is there any other way that I can fix this until we can afford to take the car to the dealership?
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Removing the horn fuse will probably not affect your brake lights, but just visually check for safety's sake.

How many keys do you have?

Have you thought about replacing the fobs? (Just transfer the new fobs into your old keys.) It's an inexpensive enough thing to try, especially if your fobs are old and have seen better days.
Amazon.com: 2006 honda pilot key fob: Automotive

When you opened up the fob to replace the battery, did you perhaps lose or even just knock loose the little black immobilizer chip which should be affixed firmly near the hilt of the key, inside?
 

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Actually, try removing just the horn relay, number 4 in the diagram I've attached for you.
 

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If you have a second fob, is the alarm’s behavior the same?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Removing the horn fuse will probably not affect your brake lights, but just visually check for safety's sake.

How many keys do you have?

Have you thought about replacing the fobs? (Just transfer the new fobs into your old keys.) It's an inexpensive enough thing to try, especially if your fobs are old and have seen better days.
Amazon.com: 2006 honda pilot key fob: Automotive

When you opened up the fob to replace the battery, did you perhaps lose or even just knock loose the little black immobilizer chip which should be affixed firmly near the hilt of the key, inside?
I will try removing the fuse for sure. Thank you!

Regarding your question about the keys, we technically have three keys. Two keys that are the remoteless key entry keys, and one of the valet keys that does not have the remoteless key entry - it's just supposed to manually unlock the door. None of these three keys are currently working in regards to silencing the alarm when we use them to open the driver side door. It is possible, I guess, that we could have loosened the key fob that's affixed inside the key. Both of our keys have seen better days. I will have to check and see if I can see this little part that you're talking about and if it looks loose in either of our key fobs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you have a second fob, is the alarm’s behavior the same?
In answer to this question, yes. The alarm's behavior is the same no matter what key we use. But as I said, both of our key fobs are old and not in the best shape. Neither key is able to silence the alarm when it is used to manually unlock the door, and neither is working with a brand new battery inside.

If we were to purchase new key fobs from the link you provided, wouldn't the key then have to be programmed to work with our Pilot specifically?
 

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If neither one of your fob keys silences the alarm, that seems like more than a coincidence.

OK, one thing that costs nothing to try is that some people have suggested that you inadvertently got yourself into valet mode, especially if you have an aftermarket alarm system. You can try to exit valet mode by rapidly following these steps:
  1. Put key into ignition
  2. Turn to "on" position. (Not "Start")
  3. Turn to "off" and remove key
  4. Repeat twice more. Light should blink a few or several times then remain off.
Another thing to check is to make sure your hood latch is properly closed. Sometimes there's a short in the hood latch sensor, and some people have even disconnected it, just below the latch along the fan shroud. Also make sure your rear latch closes properly. One way to test this is to lock the doors, set the alarm, wait a while, then gently shake each door, the tailgate and the hood.

Still another thing to try is to clean the remote battery contacts, especially if they've become grubby over time.

As well, make sure when you replaced the battery and put the fob back into the shell, that none of the buttons are being depressed, even a little, including the panic button.

Anyway, if none of the above works, try reprogramming your fobs, first with your old fobs, but then with new fobs from the link above if no joy.

Have all remotes for the vehicle on hand. Make sure all the doors and rear hatch/trunk are closed during programming. Only need to use 1 remote to get into program mode but all remotes must be programmed during the same session. Each step must be completed within 5 seconds.

1. Sit in the car with all doors/trunk tightly closed

2. Turn the key to the ON position, marked by "II" on the ignition bezel so the dash lights come on, then within 5 seconds press the "Lock" button on the remote for 1 second or so and release the button.

3. Turn the key to the OFF position, marked by "I" on the ignition bezel - dash lights go off.

4. Repeat steps 2 & 3 three more times (A total of 4 times) -- each step must be done within 5 seconds of the previous step.

5. Upon the 4th turning of the key to "ON", press the lock button on one remote, the locks will make a cycling sound (clunk), locks will NOT lock or unlock at this point, they will just make a noise. The system is now in programming mode. Do not turn key off.

6. Within 5 seconds of entering programming mode and within 5 seconds of each other, press the lock button ON EACH remote you are programming, for a second or so and release. This step needs to be completed within 10 seconds. Each time a remote button is pushed, the locks should cycle. Up to 3 remotes can be programmed.

7. Turn ignition completely off and remove the key. Step out of car and close door. The remotes should be programmed and should work. If you have a trunk/hatch release, the button for this feature needs to be held for a few seconds before the trunk/hatch will "pop"
Here's a video that might also help.



Keep trying, it eventually does work, if your fobs are good. In the end, what finally worked for me when using the method that goes from II to 0 didn't work: Going from II to I is what did it for me.

Otherwise, it might be dealer time, but at least you will have tried all this first.
 

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Look on your instrument panel if any of the doors are being reported as open even though it’s closed. I’m not sure if the alarm system monitors the door open switches but that would also be worth checking as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you so much, plplplpl and road2cycle. I really appreciate you guys replying so quickly and giving me so many different things to try. I will definitely take all of the advice you guys have given me and try to see if any of this helps.

I will let you know if any of this works.

We realize we may have to just take the car to the dealership, but in the meantime all of your suggestions are better than the nothing we had before. Thank you again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
  1. Ok - tried reprogramming the key a couple times, but hasn't worked yet. Pulled the fuse for the horn, but we couldn't get the car out of park when we did that. Put the fuse back in and the alarm once again constantly was going off but we could now get the car out of park.
  2. To get the car to shut up while we were trying to work on it, we disconnected the actual horns - from where the wires go into the horns. Both of them - because there are two horns apparently.
  3. So now that we can actually hear ourselves think, we are going to try this reprogramming of the key again and some of the other fixes. Hopefully pulling up wiring to the horns didn't mess anything else up. Think we'll take the car around the block real quick just to check and make sure.
That's what I have for an update on all of this so far.
 

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You might consider pulling the horn relay instead of unplugging the horns, it will save more current (since the horn relay is being energized to send current to the horns).
 

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The alarm has to be shut off by the key in the driver's door cylinder. The switch in the cylinder is being recognized by the micu. 99% of the time, the cylinder needs replaced. In a very chance you could have circuit problem, broken wire/bad pin fitment, etc. The micu only fails of it gets wet.
 

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The alarm has to be shut off by the key in the driver's door cylinder. The switch in the cylinder is being recognized by the micu. 99% of the time, the cylinder needs replaced. In a very chance you could have circuit problem, broken wire/bad pin fitment, etc. The micu only fails of it gets wet.
My neighbor's battery drains every night unless the horn relay is pulled (new relay, new battery), someone recently tried to break into their front driver's door with a screwdriver they think, because the key won't go in any longer. Current is being sent to the horn relay draining the battery, but not enough to close the relay and sound the horn. Could that be caused by the driver door lock being jammed somehow?
 

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Could that be caused by the driver door lock being jammed somehow?
It could if the cylinder is keeping the switch on, that would keep the b can network awake. The alarm itself should reset after approximately 2 minutes and not be set off again until a door is opened. If the relay isn't being energized it shouldn't be draining the battery though.
 

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It could if the cylinder is keeping the switch on, that would keep the b can network awake. The alarm itself should reset after approximately 2 minutes and not be set off again until a door is opened. If the relay isn't being energized it shouldn't be draining the battery though.
Thank you.
 
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