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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everyone.
Unfortunately this is my first post but I have used the forum for my pilots. OK, I might be screwed and am sick about it. I JUST purchased a used 03 (private sale) and went to drain/refill the tranny fluid (only with Honda DW-1) and when I removed the drain bolt I noticed a small sliver of thread coming out...crap.

After draining and installing new crush washer the bolt will not seat/tighten in the threads. It will tighten slightly then give loose again. I cannot afford a new transmission housing and labor. what the heck am I going to do? please advise
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't believe you can get a drill in that tight area to install a helicoil. Man I am so friggin mad. :mad:
 

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You have options.

Once you get it clean and dry you can use an epoxy type thread restorer, such as Loctite Form-A-Thread.

Another option is to simply tap it (skip the drill part if you have to) up to the next largest thread size. I once did this on a metric tractor with an SAE tap that I happened to have that was just a bit larger than the hole. It's just a plug, it doesn't have to be rocket science. Just be sure to clear out all of the debris when done.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks. what size tap and bolt would I need for the next size up? The stock one is M18x1.5.

Looking into the drain hole it appears the first several threads are gone with about 2-3 threads still remaining in the back. Unfortunately there is no additional depth in the well so a longer bolt likely wont help either.
 

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Thanks. what size tap and bolt would I need for the next size up? The stock one is M18x1.5.

Looking into the drain hole it appears the first several threads are gone with about 2-3 threads still remaining in the back. Unfortunately there is no additional depth in the well so a longer bolt likely wont help either.
The answer depends on how badly stripped the original hole is. I would stick with the same thread pitch (1.5). It might clean up with 1mm larger (M19) or definitely should with 2mm larger (M20). A quick search reveals new taps in M19x1.5 and M20x1.5 running $50 and up. MSCDirect can get you a $50-55 tap tomorrow if time is of the essence. That's the problem with large taps- new, they cost a lot of money.

Used on eBay is a definite possibility. This is one tool where you can definitely go cheap because it's a one-time job. An auction may take a week to complete but could save you a lot of money because these are not popular sizes. A foreign seller on eBay has M19x1.5 for about $35 and and M20x1.5 for ~ $23. This may reflect popularity or lack thereof. Shipping is free but wait time will be longer.

Make sure your tap and your replacement plug have the same threading before tapping. Just put them against each other and hold up to the light.

Taper, gun, bottom, it really doesn't matter, through a Bottom tap may be harder to start/find the old threads. If a taper tap hits something inside before it starts to cut threads, just grind off the tip.

Once you're done you can always (re)sell it on eBay.

Good luck and tell us how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for all the info and good suggestions. Here is my plan:

I counted 4 remaining "good" threads deep in the well so I may have something to work with.

I found a thread on an MDX forum where a fella had the exact same issue and he found a 1/2 longer magnetic drain bolt (OEM Volvo oil drain plug) and was able to get good contact with the remaining threads and he torqued it to ~28 ft-lbs without and issue. This is below spec but plenty tight to make a good seal.

I ordered the Volvo bolt from ebay for $7 bucks and will try it first:
Magnetic Oil Drain Plug Volvo XC90 S90 V40 V50 V70 V90 | eBay

I think this is worth a shot before any re-tapping occurs. Crossing fingers
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just updating this thread. The Volvo oil drain bolt (ebay link above) worked perfectly! It is twice as long as the OEM Honda bolt with a very strong magnet. It grabbed the remaining threads deep in the drain hole (about 4 rows).

I did not torque it to spec as I am unsure if the remaining threads would handle 36 ft-lbs. I just tightened with a standard ratchet nice and snug. No leaking after long drive but I will keep an eye on it.

I think I dodged a big bullet and I hope this thread helps someone else if they have this issue. :)
 

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Save me a transmission

Just updating this thread. The Volvo oil drain bolt (ebay link above) worked perfectly! It is twice as long as the OEM Honda bolt with a very strong magnet. It grabbed the remaining threads deep in the drain hole (about 4 rows).

I did not torque it to spec as I am unsure if the remaining threads would handle 36 ft-lbs. I just tightened with a standard ratchet nice and snug. No leaking after long drive but I will keep an eye on it.

I think I dodged a big bullet and I hope this thread helps someone else if they have this issue. :)
Just wanted you to know that I had this exact situation (over 5 years later) on my 2011 Pilot. I was even luckier... because I had purchased a magnetic oil plug for the Volvo S60 I owned prior to the Pilot. I read your thread and (not kidding) remembered throwing the oil pan bolt away earlier the same day I stripped the Honda transmission threads. Dug it out of the trash... and saved myself a transmission for $0. Thank you brother.
 

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I too am in the same predicament. I have a 99 Accord with the stripped transmission threads. I counted the threads on the original bolt and it has about 6 threads. The replacement I ordered has about 10. I have been struggling with this problem for 2 weeks and finally came across this thread. It should arrive later this weeks. Fingers crossed that it will hold up...
 

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. It should arrive later this weeks. Fingers crossed that it will hold up...
Keep us posted, and how about a link to the replacement you ordered?
 

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Here is the link to the part I ordered. The tracking says that it should be delivered on Friday. I plan to install it on Sat...

 

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USD $7.90 seems like a very reasonable price to pay if it gets you out of your pickle.

Hopefully, domestic shipping for you isn't what it's showing for me for "Worldwide Saver" shipping to Canada. I'd hate to live in Timbuktu :(

Shipping:

$84.18 UPS Worldwide Saver
 

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The delivery came late. I got it last Saturday night. I will install it later this afternoon. I am adding some pics for reference. As you can see, the length of the new one is shorter overall than the original so there is no chance it could interfere with moving parts inside. If you count the threads, it clearly has at least 3 or 4 more threads than the original to mate up with the virgin threads in the hole. I will say that the new magnet is much stronger than the original. It doesn't have as much magnet surface area as the original, but that shouldn't make much of a difference, especially if you change the fluid regularly like the recommended 30k mile interval. The shoulder of the new bolt isn't as wide as the original, but that shouldn't prevent any leaking issues as long as you use a new crush washer. The individual bolt pictures were taken with the same crush washer on it to indicate that the thread size is the same (gap between the threads and the inner diameter of the washer). The bottom line is whether or not the new one leaks... I have no reason to believe that it will leak. Crossing my fingers. 20200913_142124.jpg 20200913_142114.jpg 20200913_142057.jpg
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The individual bolt pictures were taken with the same crush washer on it to indicate that the thread size is the same (gap between the threads and the inner diameter of the washer).

Yup, eyeballing it, it looks like the same thread pitch, too, so it's looking good as a successful replacement.
 

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Update: I finally got the Volvo plug installed. I took my time to make sure what little threads left in the hole did not get cross threaded. Once I got it started, it went in pretty easily. I barely snugged it to be safe. I have driven almost 2000 miles with it in and the level on the dip stick has not dropped despite a slight leak as seen in the pic. I will try to snug it a little more and continue to monitor it. I did use a new washer. At the next fluid change interval, I will try a different washer (maybe the rubber coated or copper)
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Screenshot_20201017-094525_Video Player.jpg and snug it down a little more (still well under torque specs). Overall, I'm very pleased with the results.
 

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Now, let's talk about that DW-1 your putting in an 03 Pilot. 😏
 
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