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Discussion Starter #1
2005 Pilot with 180k miles. Last year the front right inner boot was seeping grease around the shaft. Replaced the clamp and all had been good until today when I noticed the boot has now torn and is leaking grease.

I'm getting ready to go on a long road trip in a few weeks so I am trying to decide how to fix this. The CV joint seems to be good, but at 180k miles I am wondering if I should just replace the entire thing versus buying a boot kit and spending a whole day tearing the old axle apart to replace just the boot?

I've read that aftermarket axles can be iffy, but it is tempting when I can buy a Cardone/APWI/Surtrack for $50ish + s&h and be done with it. If I go the aftermarket route I'll hang onto the OEM axle and rebuilt it if the replacement fails.

Any reviews of the Cardone/APWI/Surtrack axles from Rock Auto?
 

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You have caught this so soon that I would recommend replacing the boot. If there are no problems or clicking sounds why replace it?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You have caught this so soon that I would recommend replacing the boot. If there are no problems or clicking sounds why replace it?
I've never changed an inner CV boot. I know that pulling the axle can be a bear. I unsuccessfully tried to remove it last fall when the boot clamp was leaking, but ended up having enough room to replace the clamp with it installed.

I also need to get this changed soon as I'll be leaving for FL in a few weeks, so 12+ hours of driving and a week of driving in a sandy environment.... not good with a torn boot and exposed joint!

I can get a new Honda axle for around $240 shipped. If I pay the garage to install it I'm looking at $400ish total. My local garage also recommended changing it out versus a boot replacement since it has 180k miles on it. I don't have the free time to get it in my garage to do the work so I'm leaning towards paying someone to replace it.
 

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Personally I'd replace the axle with aftermarket, I have no issues with my oriley one. I Have an 05 and it had the same situation only the outer boot had torn and just begun to sling grease. I'm at 220k miles so you could expect similar wear in your axle. But here is what they look like torn down. You'll need snap ring pliers if you choose to disassemble the inner joint, once you cut the boot the tri bearing will slide out of the cup, then remove the snap ring and slide the bearing housing off the shaft, clean and reassemble.
If you choose to rebuild the outer joint, you'll need a rubber mallet, a clamp, a vice (I clamped mine to my firewood rack since I don't have a vice), brass punch / brass hammer. After you cut the boot off, clamp the shaft to something stable and knock the joint off the shaft, its held on by an expanding ring. Then you can take the ball bearings out by rocking the bearing cup back and forth with a brass punch and brass hammer.
As you can see I had quite a bit of galling in my outer joint, if your joint is free of wear then re-pack and re-assemble. But with nearly 200k on the clock I'd suspect you have some galling as well. This isn't caused by dirt, its simply metal on metal contact when the grease is displaced due to the torsional load on the shaft during acceleration of deceleration.
I have a boot/grease/clamp kit for this axle if you'd like it, as I didn't use it.

As far as removal goes, it really wasn't that bad. If your wheel speed sensor (WSS) doesn't come right out, go ahead and disconnect the connector in the engine bay, loosen the harness from the WW and then move the spindle out of the way. Forcing the WSS out of the spindle will only destroy it. To separate it from the transmission I used a long prybar coming in horizontally from the driver side and a mallet to knock it loose.



 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the pics and info! I ordered an inner and outer boot kit this week, so I guess I'll try rebuilding my axle. Worse case if I find damage/bad wear or I screw it up I'll just order a replacement.

Also going to adjust the valves on Sunday before I tear into the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, How'd it go?

Finished up the job last night. Removing the old axle was a PITA. I was able to get it off the intermediate shaft by snaking a 24" pry bar in behind it and smacking it with a sledge hammer, but it sure did not want to come off.

The old CV joints still feel tight and look to be in good condition with little wear. I repacked both joints and covered them with new boots. Will check them after putting some miles on them to make sure everything is still sealed and tight.

I did have to loan a torque wrench from Autozone as my wrench only goes to 150 ft-lb, where I needed 210 for the spindle nut. Autozone also had a socket kit with the 36mm needed to remove the nut.

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