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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2005 Pilot about 100Kmiles. The check engine light came on recently, so I tried to get the diagnostic code via the paperclip jumper method To do this you should jump pin 4 and 9. However, when I climbed under the dash I reversed the pin layout and jumped pin 5 to 16. :bangh:

So after turning the key to the on position and not seeing the check engine light blink out a code, I realized what I had done. I removed the jumper wire and tried to start the engine. The starter engaged and the engine rolled over, but would not start. I also noticed that the shifter wouldn't let me shift out of park.

I assumed somehow I'd engaged an anti theft system, so I disconnected the battery for 5 minutes. After reconnecting the battery, I still have the same problem, engine rolls but doesn't start, and can't shift out of park.

I have checked the fuse for the ECU as well as the radio (I read somewhere else the ECU may share the radio fuse) both fuses are fine. I connected my voltmeter to the OBD port and verified that pin 16 has 12volts. That leads me to conclude that I don't have a fuse issue as it has power.

I'm quite worried that I've blown the ECU by sending power to pin 5 :(

Any advice, are there any tests I can run to see if the ECU is alive. Or is there a way to disable the ECU to get the car to start. (So I can avoid the tow bill.) Is there some other system, I may be over looking.

Other facts that may be helpful.
- No aftermarket stereo, nothing that would require any none default wiring.
- No aftermarket Alarm.
 

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2016 CRV Touring AWD, 2005 Pilot RIP.
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jumping 12 v line to system ground.....hmmm.....
This can't be good.

Time to ponder.. (I'm a moderator not an engineer!)
 

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I can't imagine your car running without the ECU. I suspect you've blown something, and the equipment you would need (not to mention the know how to use it), is beyond the average DIYer. If I were you I would have it flat-bedded to your nearest Honda dealership.
 

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Check EVERY SINGLE FUSE both under dash and under hood.
I can't count the times when someone "thought" they checked the right fuses and misses the blown one.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It's fixed!!! (Oh does it feel good to dig yourself out of a hole, and avoid a dealer repair bill.)

It was a blown fuse. In the fuse box under the hood, passenger side. Fuse #4 for the ACGS. I have no idea what that is but apparently if it goes your engine will not start.

Everything is in working order now. Thanks to N_Jay for motivating me to go fuse by fuse. That's how I found it.
 

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It's fixed!!! (Oh does it feel good to dig yourself out of a hole, and avoid a dealer repair bill.)

It was a blown fuse. In the fuse box under the hood, passenger side. Fuse #4 for the ACGS. I have no idea what that is but apparently if it goes your engine will not start.

Everything is in working order now. Thanks to N_Jay for motivating me to go fuse by fuse. That's how I found it.
Now go buy a cheap ODBll code reader. Everybody gets one, the next time it could get expensive.
 

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Sorry, can't help you out, but now you've learned something valuable, pickup a cheap OBDII scanner for future code readings.
I agree. I bought a scanner off of Amazon and then downloaded Torque Pro on my phone. Connects through my Bluetooth and all less than 20 bucks.
 

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Miss our 2005 Pilot
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Let me know if it reads Honda specific codes. I haven’t found a scanner which costs less than ~$200 which will read a Honda/Acura code.
 

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I came here to post the DLC/OBD2 connector has its circuits protected by fuses .


Depending on what pin was " jumped " or shorted it will tell you what fuse got popped
 

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Thank you, Kurgan! (I can't find the Thanks button... ???? so I rated the thread 5 stars, best I can do right now).


This thread just saved me countless time and heartache. I did the jumper thing, double reversed while under the dash, and then ODB2 died and my Pilot wouldn't start. Sure enough the AGCS fuse was blown. It's a blue 15A AGC LP (very small but does have legs, unlike the AGC Micro_.



By the way, the calls to buy an ODB2 reader are a little off-base. The pin trick shows you transmission codes that simply don't show up on ODB2, by blinking the "D" (drive) light. Also VTM-4.
 

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Miss our 2005 Pilot
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A Honda specific code reader is necessary to read complete Honda specific codes (main plus subcode). The OBD2 port jumper method only reports the main code, and if you have multiple codes it’s a PITA to keep everything straight as the entire dash is blinking away.
 
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Let me know if it reads Honda specific codes. I haven’t found a scanner which costs less than ~$200 which will read a Honda/Acura code.
You might contact the guys at Bluedriver and see if theirs has it, or if it's being considered. They do support the ABS and SRS code reading for Honda, but am not sure if they can read the brand-specific codes.
 
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