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Discussion Starter #1
I was investigating a possibility to replace my leaking PS hose and jacked up the car to see if I could replace it.
No dice as the propeller shaft is in the way and Honda made sure that the flare nut is too tiny and inaccessible.
I tried a 14mm crowsfoot hex wrench on it through a long chain of extensions and it became clear that I would round it rather than remove.
There I gave up and dropped the car and proceeded to replace the intake top plate gasket which was letting a bit of oil onto the intake. Put the new Honda gasket on and called it a day. The engine runs smooth.

My family took it to go grocery shopping and when they returned half an hour later it had all three lights on the dash. My son said that those lit up as soon as he left the driveway. I read the codes and Scanmaster did not show any.

I want to try the pin 4 to 9 jumper. What should I expect in terms of the frequency of flashes and how soon does it start flashing?

And does anyone know a Windows-based PC software, which reads Honda ABS codes? SRS and tranny codes would be a welcome bonus.
 

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It starts flashing on the dashboard fairly quickly after you turn the key. It will be pretty obvious which are the long pulses and which are the short pulses. It gets tricky when you either have lots of codes from multiple systems (difficult to focus on just one dash light) or if there are multiple codes coming from one dash light (I wish there is more time delay between separate codes). When I had one dash light flashing five different codes that’s when I decided it was time for a Honda specific code reader. I’m not sure about PC based ones; I purchased the Foxwell NT520 scanner and haven’t looked back.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, getting multiple codes. Checked the battery and alternator voltage: 12.3 for the battery 14.15 for the alternator. Sounds about right.
On the p. 15.10 of the FSM I see that my VTM-4 blink codes are 21 and 77. The latter is likely BS.
On the p. 19-40 of the FSM I see that my ABS blink codes are 13 and 61. The latter is also likely BS.
So it sounds like either my driver front ABS sensor is dead or the wiring from it has been damaged. Does that sensor's harness pass anywhere near the PS power line?
 

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ABS sensor is the first place to check for those symptoms. Disconnect on the firewall (the only orange connector in there) and test for continuity.

In my experience, looking at those things too hard will break them, so any work in that neighborhood is suspect.

Easy fix, but don't be afraid to drill the old one out of the steering knuckle if its stuck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What is the normal resistivity of the ABS sensor?
If I will have to drill it out, do the hub or cv joint have to come out?
 

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>What is the normal resistivity of the ABS sensor?
If I recall correctly, all you are looking for is continuity between the plug terminals. No continuity is a failed part. I had to push the probes hard into the plug to get a connection, but it was clearly an open circuit. I tested the passenger side while I was under the hood to ensure that I was doing it right. I did the two rears (above the spare in the back) at the same time to confirm I only had one problem.

There were several posts here that described the test procedure.

>If I will have to drill it out, do the hub or cv joint have to come out?
No, you can approach it from the top side of the lower end of the steering knuckle, where a small bolt holds the sensor onto the casting. All it took was getting the car securely on stands and removing the wheel. You have to be careful not to drill through and damage the ring on the axle that the sensor is reading, and avoid dropping copper bits down into the ring.

My sensor broke off at the top when I tried to pry it out despite lots of PB blaster. I used a chisel to remove everything above the surface so there was nothing obscuring the top of the hole in the casting. I drilled a little, pulled a little, drilled a little more, pushed from the bottom, etc. until the plastic fractured and I could get it out by hand. New one went in perfectly and solved all the problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It dawned on me that last Wed I had alignment done by a shop. They must have disturbed the sensor. I am guessing that going back and bitching about it is pointless as they would deny everything. First time when I bought tires there, they cross-threaded one of the lug studs and it snapped when I was using the crucifix lug wrench to remove my wheel a couple weeks later. Did not even apply much force when removing the lug nut, but the bolt snapped easily. And now this.
 

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Might be time to find a different shop.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
It's a shame as they do quality work on what's ordered. It's the side effects which are killing me. Every f'n time I allow a shop to work on any of my cars, they ruin something else.
 

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Lately I’m very wary of taking my vehicles into the shop to have any work performed. I understand the pressures the mechanics are facing to get the job done and get on to the next one. It’s sad because I’m sure the good ones can’t spend as much time as they would really want to on a job.
 
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Just watched some videos and one fellow mentioned that the brand new ABS sensor read 430 kOhm. It looked more like 430 Ohm from his multimeter screen, but I'm an innocent messenger here. Will know tonight for sure.

I read my driver and passenger side sensors:
  • the failed driver side reads anywhere from 16 to 20 MOhm
  • the passenger side reads 1.4 kOhm

Ordered the driver side sensor from Rock Auto.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Received the NTK sensor from RA. It reads 1.483 kOhm too.
Removed the old one by breaking it off from the top, breaking out the core, and punching the remaining plastic ring out with a chizel. Piece of cake.
Installing was not so easy. Rust deposits had to be grinded off with a cylindrical dremel bit. Once there was no rust, the new sensor slid in easily.
Everything is in tight spaces. Inserting the rubber grommet into the wheel well was a bit of pain. And in the end the new connector did not want to attach as it was too tight in the last 1/8". Ended up removing the male connector from the wheel well and using pliers to slightly coerce the new plug onto the old one, The old and new looked identical, but the old was just right while the new one stopped dead right before the lock should snap. I hope that I do not have to disconnect it for another 140k miles.
Disconnected the battery for 10 min, reconnected and started the car. The codes cleared and did not come back.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The replacement of the ABS sensor was not it. I did not know that the ABS and VSA systems stored the codes and did not show any indication of that.
I then cleared the codes with HDS and immediately got the /!\ light which would not go off.
Initially the two new codes appeared: 21 or 22 (can't remember which) ABS code and 84-1 ABS code. The 22 cleared itself after a while, but 84-1 persisted no matter what.

In the end I googled it and found on Acura forums that the FSM page 19-98 "VSA Sensor Neutral Position Memorization" procedure had to be performed. It turned tricky.
The HDS J2534 cable which I have does not correctly perform SCS shorting process, so I figured. In the end I resorted to the pins 4-9 jumper after clearing the code and finally the /!\ light went off.
 
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The replacement of the ABS sensor was not it. I did not know that the ABS and VSA systems stored the codes and did not show any indication of that.
I then cleared the codes with HDS and immediately got the /!\ light which would not go off.
Initially the two new codes appeared: 21 or 22 (can't remember which) ABS code and 84-1 ABS code. The 22 cleared itself after a while, but 84-1 persisted no matter what.

In the end I googled it and found on Acura forums that the FSM page 19-98 "VSA Sensor Neutral Position Memorization" procedure had to be performed. It turned tricky.
The HDS J2534 cable which I have does not correctly perform SCS shorting process, so I figured. In the end I resorted to the pins 4-9 jumper after clearing the code and finally the /!\ light went off.
I'm having an issue somewhat similar to yours which I think may be an ABS sensor. Are you saying your problem ended up not being the sensor but that the "VSA Sensor Neutral Position Memorization" just needed to be "reset/cleared?". Does jumping pins 4 and 9 reset anything or is that just for the diagnostic procedure? What did you use to clear your code/light?

My diagnostic dash blinking code can be seen here but I am unsure how to properly read it:

And I made a thread about it here: https://www.piloteers.org/threads/h...-obdii-no-awd-vtm-4-vsa-abs-lights-on.165398/

My AWD seems to not be working at all and the cars front wheels just slip in even light snow/ice. I also can't engage VTM-4 manually with the dash button when in 1, 2 or R.
 

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It starts flashing on the dashboard fairly quickly after you turn the key. It will be pretty obvious which are the long pulses and which are the short pulses. It gets tricky when you either have lots of codes from multiple systems (difficult to focus on just one dash light) or if there are multiple codes coming from one dash light (I wish there is more time delay between separate codes). When I had one dash light flashing five different codes that’s when I decided it was time for a Honda specific code reader. I’m not sure about PC based ones; I purchased the Foxwell NT520 scanner and haven’t looked back.
So the Foxwell NT520 can read Honda diagnostic codes similar to what you would get jumping pins 4 and 9 in the OBDII port? Such as a faulty ABS sensor? Are there any cheaper alternatives you are aware of? Thank you
 

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The Honda specific reader will also read sub codes. So say dash code is 70, reader will report 70-x where x is the subcode.
I think either @can or @Tahoefever found a less expensive reader.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Are you saying your problem ended up not being the sensor but that the "VSA Sensor Neutral Position Memorization" just needed to be "reset/cleared?"
Not exactly. I had to replace the sensor because the alignment shop somehow damaged it, probably by hammering on the knuckle. Once the sensor was replaced, the ABS light went off. I did not have the an HDS cable back then and did not reset the code. I did not even know the code was still there. Later I bought the HDS cable and read the car. It had stored codes for the ABS sensor, VTM, VSA and some other bull. Only once I cleared the codes, the car immediately threw the VSA light and code. That last thing was what had to be reset.

So you should first determine which ABS sensor is not working. To do that you do not necessarily have to read the codes. Pull each of the orange ABS sensor plugs and measure the resistivity. It should be 1.4-1.5 kOhm. If any of them read much higher to an open circuit, replace them with Honda OEM (NTK from Rock Auto is marginally cheaper but I a had plug fit problem where it was too tight). That should clear your ABS light and get your 4WD working again. Then go from there, but I am almost positive that you would have to do the VSA reset like I had to.
 
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I used the Foxwell NT520 to do the exact same VSA sensor neutral setting after accidentally reseting the VSA module... Did it with three menu selections. I had tried the fancy button pushing routine given in service manual but Im not coordinated enough to get it to work. The Foxwell has been a good investment. My second endorsement for it today on here, not a paid endorser I promise. The bidirectional functions are great to have, used it with a new car that has a body control computer to diagnose door lock and interior light issue (has manual control of those functions, very helpful, no jumpers needed)
 
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