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I have a 2003 EX L with 165k miles on it. I inherited it from my parents, who live in CT, about 2 years ago. I live in AZ and have been replacing/upgrading parts over the last 2 years as needed. Surprisingly the only rust issue was the rear bumper brace that connects the 2 ends of the frame and connects to the trailer hitch which I was able to replace with a pristine part from the Pull-a-part for $40. I have replaced all 4 rotors and brake pads, rear shocks(KYB), front struts (KYB), lower A arms, inner and outer tie rod ends, front and rear sway bar links, front and passenger side motor mounts, complete timing belt kit and water pump, Ignition, brake light switch, all bulbs are now LED including headlights, radiator, radiator hoses, condenser (accidentally drilled a hole in it), exhaust Y pipe, power steering o-rings and a few other bits and pieces. As you can see I know this car inside and out now and drive it daily (2013 Silverado sits in the garage most of the time) but most of the driving does not exceed 60 mph. When I do get on the highway and reach 65 to 70 mph there is a shake in the steering wheel. If I drive long enough it may go away a bit, but then come back. I am puzzled as to what this could be. I had the front end aligned after replacing all of the suspension parts and the tires are fairly new so I am doubting balance issues.

Could the rotors have warped already? Should I get another alignment? Balance the tries? Are all 3 the problem?

I have used this forum to do all of the work myself so I respect most everyone's opinion and would appreciate any helpful advice.
 

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I had this on my 04 recently and it was the right front CV axle. No signs of grease loss or boot damage either. Since you did all that other work you know how easy it is to take them out and how to check them.
 

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I have a 2003 EX L with 165k miles on it. I inherited it from my parents, who live in CT, about 2 years ago. I live in AZ and have been replacing/upgrading parts over the last 2 years as needed. Surprisingly the only rust issue was the rear bumper brace that connects the 2 ends of the frame and connects to the trailer hitch which I was able to replace with a pristine part from the Pull-a-part for $40. I have replaced all 4 rotors and brake pads, rear shocks(KYB), front struts (KYB), lower A arms, inner and outer tie rod ends, front and rear sway bar links, front and passenger side motor mounts, complete timing belt kit and water pump, Ignition, brake light switch, all bulbs are now LED including headlights, radiator, radiator hoses, condenser (accidentally drilled a hole in it), exhaust Y pipe, power steering o-rings and a few other bits and pieces. As you can see I know this car inside and out now and drive it daily (2013 Silverado sits in the garage most of the time) but most of the driving does not exceed 60 mph. When I do get on the highway and reach 65 to 70 mph there is a shake in the steering wheel. If I drive long enough it may go away a bit, but then come back. I am puzzled as to what this could be. I had the front end aligned after replacing all of the suspension parts and the tires are fairly new so I am doubting balance issues.

Could the rotors have warped already? Should I get another alignment? Balance the tries? Are all 3 the problem?

I have used this forum to do all of the work myself so I respect most everyone's opinion and would appreciate any helpful advice.
Is this a slight vibration? Can you tell if it is coming from the engine or from the rest of the drive train? The 3.5 L engines start to develop small vibrations around 180,000 that become more pronounced (tappet noise) with higher mileage. Multiple cylinder misfire, and small or large leak vacuum detected are common codes thrown. This is a sign of valve adjustment needed. I went through much the same thing as you did. I changed motor mounts, all the steering and suspension parts, balanced tires and bought a new set too. Then I tracked the vibration down to the engine and thanks to some youtube videos and other posts, I adjusted the valves and my vibration went away.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had this on my 04 recently and it was the right front CV axle. No signs of grease loss or boot damage either. Since you did all that other work you know how easy it is to take them out and how to check them.
The passenger CV axle was replaced just prior to my folks driving it west but the Driver side could be the culprit. I will go down to Napa and pick one up and replace it this weekend. Since it's only $70 for the part it's worth a try. Thanks for the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Is this a slight vibration? Can you tell if it is coming from the engine or from the rest of the drive train? The 3.5 L engines start to develop small vibrations around 180,000 that become more pronounced (tappet noise) with higher mileage. Multiple cylinder misfire, and small or large leak vacuum detected are common codes thrown. This is a sign of valve adjustment needed. I went through much the same thing as you did. I changed motor mounts, all the steering and suspension parts, balanced tires and bought a new set too. Then I tracked the vibration down to the engine and thanks to some youtube videos and other posts, I adjusted the valves and my vibration went away.
It's a much more pronounced vibration and only above a certain speed. I am going to try the CV axle first but thanks for the feedback.
 

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Post up your results positive or negative as it's always interesting to read about experiences with OEM vs aftermarket CV axles.
 

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Post up your results positive or negative as it's always interesting to read about experiences with OEM vs aftermarket CV axles.
ordered a pair of Cardone thru Rock Auto..had to send one back that vibrated. I would go with OEM or send them out for overhaul the next time.
 

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It's unfortunate the aftermarket CV axles can be hit or miss as so many vehicles use them. The only good thing is we tend to be more proficient replacing them until we get a good one or the vibrations become tolerable.
 
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