Yep. It also didn't smell bad either.I can tell it used to be red at one point.
You read that correctly. Unfortunately, it no longer exists as it was totaled in August 2020. I loved that car so much. Here are pics of itAm I the only one who noticed IS-F? Pics please! Does it still exist?
Yeah. Luckily I live further out in semi-suburban Brooklyn where we have our own driveway, so she was parked on the street as little as possible. Of course one of the few times I did leave it parked on the street overnight it got scuffed and I was super pissed. I used the car mostly for weekend fun and long trips, but it still took NYC abuse like a champ.She was a beauty. Sad to hear about her passing way too soon. I don't know if I could own a car like that in an urban setting, especially NYC. I'd be so upset over every little scratch or ding.
We get Right Turns on Red & U-TURNS in Florida! of course....our insurance seems a little high- Tourists & Blue Hairs LOL ( I have very little hair so I can make fun of those that do!! LOL)In that respect NYC's similar to Montreal, the only two jurisdictions in North America that still don't allow right turns on red. And for good reason.
While you’re waiting for the lab report, it might prove useful to run some tests of your own.So blackstone labs got my sample last wednesday (the 5th) and I thought turn around time was 1 business day but apparently it's closer to 5 when i called them. So no real updates until next week. However, I just checked the fluid using the dipstick on the paper towel method and it definitely looks decently red (pic below). When i uploaded the picture of the sample in the container, CintoCrunch noted he could tell it was once red, and i agreed. That and how the fluid looks on the paper towel, I'm a lot more optimistic. I very much doubt 280K mile fluid would look like that on a paper towel. It seems much more likely to me that the fluid was changed multiple times, and there's simply no record of it and the owner just forgot.
Also, I'd like to thank some of you for encouraging me to tackle the EGR ports. I cleaned ports all myself with carb cleaner, throttle body cleaner, time, and elbow grease. I got a little nervous when I started it up for the first time and it sounded off, but I was expecting that. After a couple of minutes it was running completely normally, and I took it on a 100 mile trip and it continued to run fine, and no CEL.
I don't think that was THE fix though, because I didn't actually have the standard EGR valve code, those are in the P0400's. I did some research and apparently the right fix is to adjust the valve clearance, which is actually supposed to be done every 105k miles. The CEL stayed off but will likely turn back on again if this isn't done
Iron levels were 332 PPM, whereas the average is 73, which they chalk up to time rather than poor wear. They recommend I change it. I'd love to hear your thoughts.Blackstone Labs said:You said this was probably the original fluid for this unit, which would fit with the results. Iron is quite high, but that could be a combination of wear-in as well as accumulation from the long oil run rather than poor wear. Universal averages for a Honda automatic are based on closer to 25K miles. Silicon would be explained as harmless sealer if this is indeed the factory fill. The TAN is okay at 2.1. We'd suggest an oil change to reduce iron and insolubles (solids from heat/use), but no obvious problems stand out. If all is well on your end, the next report should look better.
I find that line of thinking to be a bit fallacious, at least in my case. Lets say I bought one with half the mileage, 140K. I'd likely still need to do a lot of major servicing to it (plugs, timing belt, suspension, valve clearance, transmission fluid, brakes etc). Also, there would still be a fair amount of depreciation left to go. Whereas my Pilot is pretty much at the bottom of the depreciation curve, so it's not something I have to consider. And if anything, the work I've put into it adds value. The last owner, who I know personally, got oil changes every 3000-4000 miles (as opposed to 7500 per the schedule) and the engine is in great shape. Whereas it's rare to find comprehensive maintenance records for cars this old with this high mileage, and they're often on their 3rd or 4th owner by now, who probably care less and less about maintenance. Say what you will about the previous owner never changing the transmission fluid, he put in brand new shocks shortly before I bought it and otherwise took care of it pretty well.Pilots that old with much lower mileage can be had for a few grand so from what you’ve spent so far, it’s already not a free car anymore so try to do your best to not get emotionally involved with it... yet.
So my plan as of now is to have my mechanic top it off with AT-205 after the 3rd D&F. I already bought the bottle. AT-205 rejuvenates seals but I don't think it does anything for slipping. Should I proceed with that, or go with LubeGuard or something like Lucas Transmission Fix? Or both?If it were me I'd be doing a 3x drain and fill. On the last fill, leave it 1/2 qt low or so and see how the behavior is. If it feels like you are getting a little slip, add Lubeguard or some other helper fluid to try and mitigate the slipping.
Also, don't 1st gens have a serviceable transmission filter? I'd be replacing that as well.