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Just experienced this problem which seems to be common. On an extended drive, 180 miles, the D indicator light started to flash. I checked the Automatic Transmission Fluid and it appeared fine, topped off and not discolored, i just had it at the Dealer for a new starter and they checked all the fluids. I have driven the car, locally a couple more times and the D indicator light has not flashed. Looked online and saw a youtube about a fourth gear pressure switch going bad, others said that it could be nothing. Any ideas of the cause and the severity? I am the original owner and the vehicle has 152,000 on it.

There is no CHECK ENGINE light
 

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Get the codes read with a Honda specific reader, or search on the forum for how to jumper the pins on the OBD2 port so you can see the major portion of the code blinking on the dash.

The issue is likely either the 3rd or 4th gear pressure sensor.

Use OEM if replacing one of those switches as some have had bad luck with aftermarket and had to do the job twice.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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The only thing I can add to the good advice above is to do them both at the same time while you're in there. Yes, it's something of a limited parts cannon approach, but you're doing the second one now at a time of your own choosing, not when and where it decides to give up the ghost.
 

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I just don't know how I'm getting by without a single transmission code or flashing D, for 252k miles.
Is there any variable?
 

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Just experienced this problem which seems to be common. On an extended drive, 180 miles, the D indicator light started to flash. I checked the Automatic Transmission Fluid and it appeared fine, topped off and not discolored, i just had it at the Dealer for a new starter and they checked all the fluids. I have driven the car, locally a couple more times and the D indicator light has not flashed. Looked online and saw a youtube about a fourth gear pressure switch going bad, others said that it could be nothing.

There is no CHECK ENGINE light
There won't be a CEL with the infamous flashing "D". Too bad the dealer did not scan for specific transmission codes to identify the issue. OEM pressure switches are your best bet for relatively low expense.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Could this be attributed to the MaxLife flush process?
I think the long term use is proving as something that needs to be made known more.
Am I the only one?
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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I just don't know how I'm getting by without a single transmission code or flashing D, for 252k miles.
Less mileage, but same good results here for the past 5 years on Valvoline Maxlife ATF.
 

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I just don't know how I'm getting by without a single transmission code or flashing D, for 252k miles.
Is there any variable?
How is it possible that my old 2006 Odyssey went until 230k hard miles before the transmission failed. Ran a mixture of DW-1/Z1 the whole time. My 2008 has 202k miles and has only ever run DW-1/Z1 no issues yet. The 2013 has 120k miles and has had 2 drain and fills with DW-1 since new.

I'm not saying MaxLife is bad, but I don't think it's the magic answer that everyone thinks it is. Of course it's great because it's cheaper and easier to get than DW-1.

I've asked my mechanic a few times what his thoughts were on it and his general consensus has always been that these transmissions are very finicky when it comes to fluid. Transmission swaps seem to be a pain in the butt and I don't think he particularly wants to be doing them all the time so I don't think he's trying to sabotage my car.

I think the most important thing is frequent drain and fills. People who do that seem to have the least amount of issues. Perhaps disabling the VCM can improve things as well.
 

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How is it possible that my old 2006 Odyssey went until 230k hard miles before the transmission failed. Ran a mixture of DW-1/Z1 the whole time. My 2008 has 202k miles and has only ever run DW-1/Z1 no issues yet. The 2013 has 120k miles and has had 2 drain and fills with DW-1 since new.

I'm not saying MaxLife is bad, but I don't think it's the magic answer that everyone thinks it is. Of course it's great because it's cheaper and easier to get than DW-1.

I've asked my mechanic a few times what his thoughts were on it and his general consensus has always been that these transmissions are very finicky when it comes to fluid. Transmission swaps seem to be a pain in the butt and I don't think he particularly wants to be doing them all the time so I don't think he's trying to sabotage my car.

I think the most important thing is frequent drain and fills. People who do that seem to have the least amount of issues. Perhaps disabling the VCM can improve things as well.
Just seems Z1 was a better fluid than DW-1. DW-1 was not an improvement for Z1 transmissions. It's it's likely that DW-1 killed your 06 Odyssey.
So in all these periods, you never replaced any parts transmission related?
 

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Just seems Z1 was a better fluid than DW-1. DW-1 was not an improvement for Z1 transmissions. It's it's likely that DW-1 killed your 06 Odyssey.
So in all these periods, you never replaced any parts transmission related?
I have never replaced anything transmission related other than the actual transmission. I don't think the fluid killed it. I think it was the hours of stop and go traffic fully loaded in Atlanta traffic mixed with an already weak transmission. I'm shocked we got that many miles out of it. It shifted fine before it failed too.

I was doing some reading on the switch from Z1 to DW-1 and its interesting they changed the fluid to solve some problems they were having but they told dealers to hold on the Z1 for the winter months because cars that were fully converted to DW-1 would likely experience harsher shifting in the winter.

In a few years when I know I'll be replacing the 2008, I may consider switching to MaxLife just to see if it lives up to the hype.;) Right now I'm too nervous to make the switch just in case any issues come up.
 

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I have never replaced anything transmission related other than the actual transmission. I don't think the fluid killed it. I think it was the hours of stop and go traffic fully loaded in Atlanta traffic mixed with an already weak transmission. I'm shocked we got that many miles out of it. It shifted fine before it failed too.

I was doing some reading on the switch from Z1 to DW-1 and its interesting they changed the fluid to solve some problems they were having but they told dealers to hold on the Z1 for the winter months because cars that were fully converted to DW-1 would likely experience harsher shifting in the winter.

In a few years when I know I'll be replacing the 2008, I may consider switching to MaxLife just to see if it lives up to the hype.;) Right now I'm too nervous to make the switch just in case any issues come up.
The bottle does what it says. It will clean off old gummy DW-1 that's stuck in various parts of the transmission. It's the same concept with going from a synthetic blend engine oil to a full synthetic. The full synthetic is know to clean out the old oil. When someone switches to Full Synthetic Valvoline MaxLife ATF, I would plan on doing a drain and fill at least twice. Driving a few drive cycles in between. Then after 5k miles a 3rd. This will remove the very fine suspended particles caught up in the fluid that the filter is unable to catch.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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I did a gradual transition to Valvoline MaxLife ATF five years ago. I didn't do the traditional D&F three times in a row with a few miles in between. I just started by doing a MaxLife D&F with every oil change three times in a row, then doing it every second oil change. Overkill maybe, but better than underkill, and I figure it's cheap insurance for a known potential Achilles' heel on a vehicle I like and want to keep for a long time. To this date, my transmission has been problem-free and shifting well.
 
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