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Any new updates on this topic. I have run into the same issue with my 2005 Pilot on the driver side and wanted to see if there are other folks who have fixed this issue. Anyone who got the entire job done by a body shop and how much did it cost?
 

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Alright let's hope these pics went thru because I am using my old phone. If I remember I will get some of after photo for you guys. I'm more in the 3rd gen tacoma forum and CRX clubs so I'll try to remember. But here are some idea for the guys that want to try in the future View attachment 140514 View attachment 140515 View attachment 140516 View attachment 140517
So with this approach there is no need to take the third seat out and drill a hole and bolt? Would appreciate if you can provide some details on how the nut hooks up inside? I have a body shop guy who also mentioned about using the nut and not having the need to take the seat out etc...
 

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Ok...so the Firestone shop that does most of my repairs was about to replace the calipers on my brakes and found 2 rusted rear sub-frame bolts rusted out.

I am not going to do this repair myself. What should I be looking for in terms of a reasonable repair at a body shop, bolting vs welding, and price? As I'm a female they're going to assume I'm clueless about this stuff and I try very hard not to be. Also, at this point my Pilot is only worth a couple thousand at best as a trade-in, so is it even worth fixing?

Thanks for any advice you guys can give me. I've lurked out here for years since I got the Pilot and have gotten many questions answered by searching!
 

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at this point my Pilot is only worth a couple thousand at best as a trade-in, so is it even worth fixing?
At this point I’m not sure there is significant value for the Pilot without repair as it wouldn’t pass safety inspections nor be safe to drive. I luv Pilots and I’m speaking in terms for your safety and others. Find a good frame repair specialist /welder that is capable of this type of repair. Check out the threads where Piloteers have made successful subframe repairs for guidance on this repair.
 

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Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
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Both sides? Usually, it's just the left side. On the other hand, if they were both going to go out eventually, it's probably less of a total expense to get them both done in one go. If you're going to keep it, there really is no better way than to do some comparative shopping among welders and body shops that also do welding (not all do). Of course, you'll probably get some that just don't want to do it, so you'll need to contact quite a few places.

Good luck and keep us posted. And as a preemptive measure not to be taken for clueless or an easy ripoff mark, print out the attachment, compliments of a fellow Piloteer, and show it to the places, saying "This will give you a rough idea of what I want."
 

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I had 4 pilots. 04-05-2014-2015. The 05 rusted Out on both sides. Didn’t know it was a thing for pilots. Scrapped the car before I really investigated. The 04 has same problem only on the drivers side. Figure the exhaust and the muffler shroud kept the other side protected/ dry. I went to probably 10 places and no one would touch it. So called my nephew and we went to his dad’s machine shop to do it ourselves. The initial photo made the problem look worse than it actually was. Cut off the bolt let it sag a little bit and could see inside sub frame to the nut welded up inside the sub frame. It was much sturdier than I would have believed. But I wanted to make sure it was fixed so we manhandled it out. Ground out as much of the corroded area as was feasible. Cleaned the area well. Measured out the bottom plate And then the rear. we Used measurements from a previous post (thank you for that ) 3/8 “ steel plate/ MIG welded. Drilled several weld holes. We chose to make only a bottom and back plate. the bottom plate has a nut welded to it. Put it back together using number 8 4” bolt with lock washer. Jacked everything back in place and used impact driver. Yes I realize it’s not perfect. But the thing will hold up. No there are no continuous weld seams as some suggested. The idea there was to keep some flexibility to the repair. The fear was that torque forces would crack the seams. Hope this helps anyone else contemplating doing the repairs themselves.
 

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Nice fix. Not easy to find a place that will do it, as you've discovered, so if you've got the DIY gumption and facilities, go for it. (y)

I'm not sure I'm seeing them well, but are those rivets under the booger welds?

How does it feel now? Any noticeable differences?
 

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Thank you. We were rather proud of our work. No those were drilled holes that we welded thru. No rivets allowed. Drives same as before and this is on Chicago streets. Don’t feel any tracking changes or unusual flex on corners. Just have peace of mind. Gave this to my son who lives in the city. 225K on it but it has been well maintained and had just driven it back 1500 miles as a kind of shakedown cruise. Everything still works. The 05 had 270K on it. Hoping this may do the same.
 

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DJ - thanks for the pics and write-up. I think you've exposed an interesting aspect of this damage/repair that people don't necessarily consider - just because there's rust on the outer metal wrapping the subframe doesn't indicate loss of structural support.

As shown in your second pic, the main support structure is under the thin exterior. I suspect you could have just cleaned it up well, slammed some PUR on it and probably gotten another 50k.

Definitely better to do the repair, just pointing out that just because somebody finds rust in that area doesn't necessarily indicate loss of structural integrity.
 
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