Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums banner

61 - 80 of 120 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Will this fix require an alignment? Mine isn't broken off just yet but looks like it will go soonish, having a welder doing preventative repair this week. Along with replacing flange the bumper bolts too. Damn thing is so rusted the 10mm bumper bolts are just spinning in place.
 

·
Registered
Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
Joined
·
9,304 Posts
Will this fix require an alignment? Mine isn't broken off just yet but looks like it will go soonish, having a welder doing preventative repair this week. Along with replacing flange the bumper bolts too. Damn thing is so rusted the 10mm bumper bolts are just spinning in place.
Probably no need for an alignment.

Post before and after pics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
THE VIDEO IS HELPFUL.....

HOWEVER.....IT IS INTERESTING THAT HE MAKES AN "L" BRACKET INSTEAD OF A "U" SHAPED BRACKET.....

I WONDER HOW LONG THE UNWELDED SIDE OF THE FRAME SECTION WILL HOLD UP.....SINCE YOU HAVE ADDITIONAL BRACING (STEEL) ON ONE SIDE BUT NOT THE OTHER.....

ALSO.....THE PLATE ON THE INTERIOR SHEET METAL FLOOR ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE IS ONLY ABOUT 3" X 3" AND IS HOLDING THE ENTIRE LEFT SIDE OF THE REAR SUSPENSION.....

I HAVE BEEN LOOKING AT THIS THREAD EVER SINCE IT WAS POSTED.....AND I WAS WONDERING IF ANY OF YOU WELDERS OR BODY AND FRAME EXPERTS OUT THERE CAN TELL ME.....DOES ANYBODY KNOW IF THE FACTORY UNDER BODY MOUNTING PANEL IS AVAILABLE FROM HONDA?....AND HOW HARD WOULD IT BE TO INSTALL THAT PIECE?....

AND.....IF IT IS NOT AVAILABLE.....THEN.....WOULD IT BE A GOOD IDEA TO MAKE A THICK STEEL PLATE ABOUT 6" WIDE THAT GOES ACROSS THE ENTIRE FLOOR OF THE PILOT AND THEN BOLT THROUGH THE PLATE AND DOWN THROUGH THE SUSPENSION?....

THANKS.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
I believe it's called the uni-body. And Yes, I find it strange these guys don't all make a U bracket as well but I guess it's really just the bolt holding everything up. When I get down and dirty with mine I'll ask the welder.

Any idea on what a fair price to pay for this would be?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Also.... I've heard this problem is caused by water running down into this area. Is there a way to stop that? I haven't gotten a good explanation on where the water is coming from.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
I AM NO EXPERT WHEN IT COMES TO WELDING.....BUT.....IN MY OPINION.....

FOR SOMEBODY THAT YOU DON'T KNOW.....AND "YOU" REMOVE THE INTERIOR BEFORE THE JOB IS STARTED.....ABOUT $300.00 (OR LESS) FOR BOTH SIDES.....THAT IS.....USING "U" BRACKETS AND WELDING ALL THE WAY AROUND.....NOT SPOT OR TACK WELDS.....AND USING A LARGE PLATE ON THE INTERIOR OF THE PILOT.....

IF THE WELDER DECIDES TO REPAIR AND WELD THE UNIBODY / FRAME FROM JUST UNDERNEATH WITH A FULL METAL PANEL WELDED IN AND USING THE FACTORY MOUNTING / BOLT-ON METHODS.....I WOULD EXPECT THE SAME PRICE.....

IF IT IS SOMEONE THAT KNOW OR YOU ARE FRIENDS WITH.....THEN YOU SHOULD EXPECT ABOUT HALF THAT PRICE.....(OR LESS).....

BUT REMEMBER.....PRICING IS DIFFERENT IN DIFFERENT PARTS OF THE COUNTRY.....BECAUSE SOME RENTS / MATERIALS COSTS ARE HIGHER DEPENDING ON LOCATION.....RURAL AREAS ARE USUALLY CHEAPER THAN BIG CITIES.....BECAUSE THE OVERHEAD IS USUALLY LOWER.....

I THINK THAT THE BEST WAY TO KEEP WATER FROM DOING DAMAGE.....IT TO SEAL AND UNDERCOAT AS MUCH AS YOU CAN.....AND INSPECT THE AREA AT LEAST TWICE A YEAR AND TREAT AS NEEDED.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
Ok perfect! We are on the same page. He actually said $300 but I thought that was too low so I figured I'd give $300 per side and take out the seats myself. I also want him to scuff up the surrounding areas that are not rusted so I can apply POR15. So he's got a solid day or so of work. I'm in NY so yes, everything costs a bit more and I felt a little guilty at the $300 price point. I'm happy at $600 and sounds like he should be too! Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
NO.....I THINK THAT $300.00 TOTAL FOR BOTH SIDES IS A FAIR PRICE FOR THE MID TO UPPER EAST COAST.....

YOU WILL NOT BE CHEATING ANYBODY AT THAT PRICE.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I see everyone is just dealing with the rear two mounts on the subframe rusting away. Anyone fixed or had both bolts rot out on the same side? Really sad to see such a meticulously maintained vehicle rendered useless over an issue that shouldn’t happen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Im fixing mine ATM with a L bracket only. Only difference Im doing on mine is that im not drilling thru the seat. Under the L bracket plate I am welding a nut on the plate instead so no need to drill and add long bolt. My way will prevent from any shifting as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
So ya it was pretty easy.
take the spare tire out
use grinder on the rusted bolts came out easily
bang on the rusted surface to make it flat
1/4" 4"x12" metal plate from big box store cut in half
metal teeth grinder to remove old rust surface and paint for weld
Center the lower plate onto the crossmember drill your hole for location to mount your nut to plate
weld your nut attach the lower plate to the crossmember on both side when ready
jack the rear crossmember up and this point the plate should sit flush with the unit body frame
finish off welding the top plate and your done. Spray some 2 in 1 rust reform and seal and done.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
960 Posts
Also.... I've heard this problem is caused by water running down into this area. Is there a way to stop that? I haven't gotten a good explanation on where the water is coming from.
The unit body crossmember has openings which allow road spray to go up inside. Road salt and water make the rust happen. Only defense is to spray full of Fluid Film when the car is young, to protect the steel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
So ya it was pretty easy.
take the spare tire out
use grinder on the rusted bolts came out easily
bang on the rusted surface to make it flat
1/4" 4"x12" metal plate from big box store cut in half
metal teeth grinder to remove old rust surface and paint for weld
Center the lower plate onto the crossmember drill your hole for location to mount your nut to plate
weld your nut attach the lower plate to the crossmember on both side when ready
jack the rear crossmember up and this point the plate should sit flush with the unit body frame
finish off welding the top plate and your done. Spray some 2 in 1 rust reform and seal and done.
SO.....WHERE ARE ALL THE PRETTY PICTURES OF THIS REPAIR?....

The unit body crossmember has openings which allow road spray to go up inside. Road salt and water make the rust happen. Only defense is to spray full of Fluid Film when the car is young, to protect the steel.
SOMEBODY SHOULD HAVE TOLD ME THAT 233,000 MILES AGO.....
 

·
Registered
Nobili spiritus embiggens pequeño sparus tyre.
Joined
·
9,304 Posts
So ya it was pretty easy.
take the spare tire out
use grinder on the rusted bolts came out easily
bang on the rusted surface to make it flat
1/4" 4"x12" metal plate from big box store cut in half
metal teeth grinder to remove old rust surface and paint for weld
Center the lower plate onto the crossmember drill your hole for location to mount your nut to plate
weld your nut attach the lower plate to the crossmember on both side when ready
jack the rear crossmember up and this point the plate should sit flush with the unit body frame
finish off welding the top plate and your done. Spray some 2 in 1 rust reform and seal and done.
SO.....WHERE ARE ALL THE PRETTY PICTURES OF THIS REPAIR?....
Agreed...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
GetFurious, there are at least prices for the cross member pieces on Majestic's site, so they might still be available. All it takes is a phone call. I believe item 24 is the one in question.

140064
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
THE VIDEO IS HELPFUL.....

HOWEVER.....IT IS INTERESTING THAT HE MAKES AN "L" BRACKET INSTEAD OF A "U" SHAPED BRACKET.....

I WONDER HOW LONG THE UNWELDED SIDE OF THE FRAME SECTION WILL HOLD UP.....SINCE YOU HAVE ADDITIONAL BRACING (STEEL) ON ONE SIDE BUT NOT THE OTHER.....

ALSO.....THE PLATE ON THE INTERIOR SHEET METAL FLOOR ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE IS ONLY ABOUT 3" X 3" AND IS HOLDING THE ENTIRE LEFT SIDE OF THE REAR SUSPENSION.....

I HAVE BEEN LOOKING AT THIS THREAD EVER SINCE IT WAS POSTED.....AND I WAS WONDERING IF ANY OF YOU WELDERS OR BODY AND FRAME EXPERTS OUT THERE CAN TELL ME.....DOES ANYBODY KNOW IF THE FACTORY UNDER BODY MOUNTING PANEL IS AVAILABLE FROM HONDA?....AND HOW HARD WOULD IT BE TO INSTALL THAT PIECE?....

AND.....IF IT IS NOT AVAILABLE.....THEN.....WOULD IT BE A GOOD IDEA TO MAKE A THICK STEEL PLATE ABOUT 6" WIDE THAT GOES ACROSS THE ENTIRE FLOOR OF THE PILOT AND THEN BOLT THROUGH THE PLATE AND DOWN THROUGH THE SUSPENSION?....

THANKS.....

Hi, I'm actually the one that did that repair and made the video.. I had decided at the time that a L bracket would be strong enough and worst case scenario, I could always make the U bracket. I did the L because of time constraints and had done the repair on the driveway (no shop or hoist to assist). I used 1/4 in steel for both the L brackets. It is welded securely with even a little bit of burn through on the 1/4 in steel so it's not ghetto by any means. (Mental health worker, definitely not a pro welder by any means). The 3x3 panel you see in the video was expanded to about 5x5 from spare 1/4 in steel just for extra peace of mind; no issues so far with either side. I've probably got about 6 months of total time driving on the repairs without any sounds or issues. I've spent significant amount of time on gravel roads and trails, moreso than on pavement and it's held up great! I checked it a week ago in great detail even removing the rear seats again and there have been no signs of movement of the top plates or in the bracket. Nut and bolt are tight too. Floor pan has not gotten pushed in or looked any different than what you see in the video. Can provide an update after 1 year of driving for those interested.
 
61 - 80 of 120 Posts
Top