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Discussion Starter #41
Sorry for the extremely delayed response...I was away for military training. 1 yearish update and 15k miles later (currently sitting at 225k)... everything is holding up well and still feels strong. I appreciate all of the input and advice on the welds and hope this thread at least motivated some people to take a look at this area on their pilot as the issue seems prevalent. My plan at this point is to keep this pilot until either the engine or transmission goes which hopefully is awhile down the road. For the amount I paid for the vehicle and what I use it for I couldn't be happier with it's performance thus far.
 

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It's now become part of my walkaround inspection every time my Pilot is up on a lift -- look at those subframe mounts for corrosion. So far so good, and maybe that's one of the benefits of yearly rustproofing just before the start of winter salt season.
 

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Hi all. I recently purchased a 2003 Honda Pilot EX-L Navi with 208000 miles a few weeks ago. The vehicle was one owner with all dealership maintenance (timing belt and water pump just done for second time) and overall in really good shape minus one bad area of rust where the unibody and rear subframe bolt together. I would say about 95% of the metal was rusted away and I honestly don't know how it hadn't yet separated. Based on this I was able to negotiate the price down to $1500. I did some searching on here and some other forums and saw that this issue was somewhat common with the early first gen pilots in cooler climate locations. Luckily I was able to have it repaired by a local mechanic/welder that I have all my vehicles serviced at. It took him about an hour and a half and only cost me $125. He said the repair was pretty simple to do and that just about any weldshop should be able to do it quite easily. I attached some before and after pics so you can see what I am talking about. As this is a somewhat common issue I figured it would be good to put some more information out there so anyone who runs into this problem doesn't fall for the dealer's advice of junk the car/it can't be repaired/we have to replace then entire unibody at a cost of $3000.
Thank you so much for posting - I had the same issue - with the same recommendations - junk it - nothing could be done - or spend many thousands replacing the unibody. Found a good welding shop - showed him your idea and pictures - $450 and rolling again
 

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