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It was actually very drive underneath! They had zero paperwork for any maintenance. The intake pipe wasn't even attached, thanks to the duct tape that didn't hold. He only wanted 3k firm!
 

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It was actually very drive underneath! They had zero paperwork for any maintenance. The intake pipe wasn't even attached, thanks to the duct tape that didn't hold. He only wanted 3k firm!
I'd take it to a mechanic and have them go over it before paying that much. Or at least hooking an OBDI2 scanner up so you can see everything ailing it. Maybe all the lights are on because the cluster itself is failing. I'd seriously consider spending the $40 on a CarFax so you can at least have a glimpse into it's service history (which you can then call, and have them fax over copies of the services done, and may find out some pleasant things along the way like the timing belt being done recently).

For the mileage would advise doing a compression check and a chemical based head gasket leak-down test. I also wouldn't skip jacking it up and pushing/pulling on the wheels to check for abnormal play in suspension/steering components, or wheel bearings. Is the body dent-free and paint in good condition? How's the interior? Does everything else on it work? How's the A/C? Did you check for rear-subframe for rust?
 

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Showed up to test drive an 08 4wd with 256k miles. Nothing mentioned about dash lights-i got in and they were all on. VTM-4, VSA, Exclamation Point, CEL, Low tire light. Does this fall under the Deal Breaker category?
I'd walk away just for the lies of omission.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I think that everyone agrees that a cream-puff with cheap tires (or even no tires) would be foolish to pass up if it was priced right.

But a "Red" issue doesn't mean pass it up. The Popular Mechanics checklist that is the template for this one suggests making a lowball offer for 1 or 2 reds, caution for 3 to 6, and pass for 7 or more. #14 is a red for "mixed brand or size tires".

Bad tires, assuming the spare is included, means spending at least $500 more after the sale to resolve. I'm darn sure deducting $500 from the Blue Book price for that before I make my offer.

As noted in the last 24 hours, there are many realistic scenarios, both good and bad, that involve cheap tires. There's no way any checklist will cover the "what if's". I personally still think its reasonable to treat cheap tires as a negative indicator, in the context of the other things that you find. We seem to be divided in opinion, but perhaps this will make the issue less contentious. As I said before, if we agree that this needs to be changed, it should be.



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I think it's the connotation that only a person "who can not afford" good tires or maintanance would buy cheap tires and fail to maintanance their vehicle. While affordability may certainly be a cause for a vehicles poor condition, a frugal or unconcerned wealthy person can be even worse. Some people just don't care.
 

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Showed up to test drive an 08 4wd with 256k miles. Nothing mentioned about dash lights-i got in and they were all on. VTM-4, VSA, Exclamation Point, CEL, Low tire light. Does this fall under the Deal Breaker category?
It's normal for the dash lights to be first one when you put the ignition in the On position prior to starting it (so you can verify bulbs aren't burned out, let the fuel system prime, etc), however if they don't go away after you start it, then you definitely need to hook it up to a scanner.
 

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Now we have to classify what tires are considered to be cheap. Lol
I'm currently testing a set of inexpensive Otani tires. The person who drives that vehicle says their awsome. 60k mile imported tire with a V speed rating and only cost $90 each. 😁
I am in this club. My wife drives 20 kms back and forth to work so I bought cheap Mirage tires for the summer. We have a set of winters. So, maybe 6000 kms per year on these tires, why would I spend big bucks. It is an old car, these work fine. Yes I am a cheap ass, although I do maintain it well.
 

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I'm on the board of directors of the cheap bastard club, but tires being literally (and I mean literally, literally :)) what keeps your vehicle on the road, I want good quality tires for myself, my loved ones, and everybody else I share the road with, for that matter.
 

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I am in this club. My wife drives 20 kms back and forth to work so I bought cheap Mirage tires for the summer. We have a set of winters. So, maybe 6000 kms per year on these tires, why would I spend big bucks. It is an old car, these work fine. Yes I am a cheap ass, although I do maintain it well.
Exactly!
 

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I'm on the board of directors of the cheap bastard club, but tires being literally (and I mean literally, literally :)) what keeps your vehicle on the road, I want good quality tires for myself, my loved ones, and everybody else I share the road with, for that matter.
I'm all for safe tires, but there is a false pretense that you have to spend $800-$1200 for safe ones. 60k mile tires will keep you safer. Fresh rubber = safety. The older a tire is the more problematic it becomes.
 

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I'm all for safe tires, but there is a false pretense that you have to spend $800-$1200 for safe ones. 60k mile tires will keep you safer. Fresh rubber = safety. The older a tire is the more problematic it becomes.
I actually agree. I'd be open to trying fresh Kumhos or Sumitomos. Someone I know who is on a budget will be needing new tires in the spring and new winter tires next fall for her 2007. Post links to the ones you'd recommend for 1st gen Pilots.
 

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My wife drives 20 kms back and forth to work so I bought cheap Mirage tires for the summer.
What was the per tire price for that Mirage tire, before mounting, balancing, taxes, etc.?
 

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I actually agree. I'd be open to trying fresh Kumhos or Sumitomos. Someone I know who is on a budget will be needing new tires in the spring and new winter tires next fall for her 2007. Post links to the ones you'd recommend for 1st gen Pilots.
If I were in 🇨🇦, I'd choose VREDESTEIN QUATRAC 5
Tire wear is not as great as I like, but highly rated. Has the snow emblem. Very safe tire.
 

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If I were in 🇨🇦, I'd choose VREDESTEIN QUATRAC 5
Tire wear is not as great as I like, but highly rated. Has the snow emblem. Very safe tire.
I'll definitely consider it, but at this point I kind of had my heart set on Sumitomos and Kumhos, both for the summer/"all season" tires in the spring, and for the dedicated winter tires next fall. Any suggestions for those?:)
 

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Someone I know who is on a budget will be needing new tires in the spring and new winter tires next fall for her 2007. Post links to the ones you'd recommend for 1st gen Pilots.
If you want to economize by going with one set of year-round all-weather (vs. all-season) tires, check the price of the Firestone WeatherGrip. WEATHERGRIP 235/70R16
Also, see if the new Hankook Kinergy 4s2x (H750A) tire is available in Canada.
Kinergy 4S2 X (H750A) | SUV & Light Truck Tires | Hankook Tire USA
 

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I'll definitely consider it, but at this point I kind of had my heart set on Sumitomos and Kumhos, both for the summer/"all season" tires in the spring, and for the dedicated winter tires next fall. Any suggestions for those?:)
This Sumitomo HTR AS P03 would have the tread wear and the crazy load and speed rating. Just an overkill tire for an 2007 Pilot at $113. Lol!
You would need a 17in rim to wear them. 235 65/R17 108V
No 16s 😐
 

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The driver already has the OEM alloy wheels, of course, for summer/"all seasons" mounted, and steelies with dedicated winter tires on them. However, both sets of tires are on their last season and TPMS is on its last legs. Looking for good, safe, inexpensive OEM size tires in both instances -- one set to put on next spring, then dedicated winter tires to put on next fall.

I'm quite happy with my Michelin LTX M/S2s for spring, summer and fall, and steel-rim mounted Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2s for winter, but both are beyond the budget for this driver.


[Note: this conversation has drifted from the original topic, so if a mod or admin would like to split it off as its own thread, go ahead. Which one's got the night shift? :p]
 
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