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Discussion Starter #1
Did my first DIY oil change on the Pilot today. My observations:

- First, did the change at 3750 miles. I know the debate about magic mouse milk in the break-in fluid, but this is still a comprimise as I would normally do a change at 1000 on a new vehicle.

- Bought OEM filters from Tim at HAW. Looking at some of the posts I'm disappointed with the quality of the filter. I'm also disturbed by the size- seems bigger should be better = more filter media. I also don't like the machined surface of the filter mounting flange exposed to the elements with the smaller filter. I'll go aftermarket for sure once these 6 filters are gone.

-Installed the Fram Sure Drain (SD-2) someone was asking how to get a wrench on it to tighten. I now understand- the plug is in a awkward location. I found that a 7/8" combination wrench is required- use the closed end. This should be a no-brainer, but I had to get the trusty floor jack out to jack up the front end 1" to allow the wrench to clear the floor-

- It appears Honda did put some thought into this as the angle of the hole directs the oil stream just past the cross member.

-My initial impression was that Honda finally got thier act together with filter location- my exuberance was short lived. Having done oil changes on Accords and Preludes for 20+ years I've been waiting for a filter that isn't located on the backside of the engine on the firewall so the oil in the filter spews on the transaxel, exhaust pipe and side of the oil pan. Although the pilot is much easier to access, the plasitc splash guard gets in the way and residual oil spills down on the cross-member and collects in the platic guard. SSDD

- Next when filling with oil I found the electrical grounding cable couldn't be located in a more inconvienient location. It precludes easy insertion of a funnel. 3-4 inches either way would be fine- Must be Honda engineers don't work on their cars- or the cost of that extra copper wire would put the squeeze on some executive's bonus.
 

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-My initial impression was that Honda finally got thier act together with filter location- my exuberance was short lived. Having done oil changes on Accords and Preludes for 20+ years I've been waiting for a filter that isn't located on the backside of the engine on the firewall so the oil in the filter spews on the transaxel, exhaust pipe and side of the oil pan. Although the pilot is much easier to access, the plasitc splash guard gets in the way and residual oil spills down on the cross-member and collects in the platic guard. SSDD

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Jab a hole in the bottom of the oil filter first with a sharp punch or screwdriver, eliminates virtually all the mess.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Good idea- wish I had this forum years ago.

MMMM.... so anyone thinking - why not put a Sure Drain type devise on a filter to allow easy draining. Or how about a pull tab like on a soda can.
 

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duroejc said:
Good idea- wish I had this forum years ago.

MMMM.... so anyone thinking - why not put a Sure Drain type devise on a filter to allow easy draining. Or how about a pull tab like on a soda can.
Some industrial equipment filters do have a drain.
 

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Re: Re: First DIY oil change

AlH said:
Jab a hole in the bottom of the oil filter first with a sharp punch or screwdriver, eliminates virtually all the mess.
Just make sure it's loose enough to get off, first :)
 

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After making a literal mess out of my first oil filter change, I used a light piece of cardboard (like oaktag, from a file folder) to act like a funnel so the old oil can drain over the cardboard, missing your nice clean body parts, and go directly into the oil drain pan.

To do this, you cut the cardboard and wrap it about two-thirds around the filter (leaving the high side exposed). The exposed part was enough to allow the filter wrench access, and to allow my hand access so I could spin the filter off. The black plastic splash shield, one of the pieces that would otherwise be flooded with the used oil, now comes in handy. When setting the cardboard in place, pull back the lower corner of the shroud, and put the cardboard between the shroud and the filter. Now the shroud will firmly hold the cardboard funnel in place, assuring it will not slip away during your under car adventure.

A nice bonus...by Honda design, Im sure ;-)

The cardboard was long enough to reach from the top of the filter (where it meets the engine block) to past the body/frame parts, so when you break loose the old filter, the old oil will drain down the cardboard, and funnel into your oil drain pan. It really worked great, with zero mess.


BTW, i did notice the new Honda oil filters are smaller and lighter then the last one I changed. The new Honda part number they gave me is 15400-POH-305. (replaces 15400-PLM-A01).

Mark M
Roseville CA
White 2003 Pilot EX-L - my favorite car!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good Thinking

markm- I'll try that. I did the hole in the filter recommendation and some oil did drain out- however not all and there was still the deluge of oil when it was completely removed- worst part- I wasn't prepared because I thought it would be empty.
 

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In order to get all the oil out of a car, it is supposed to be warmed up (so the oil is hot and drains from the top of the engine readily), or unstarted (completely cold, with all oil settled).

So the other day I had the kids help me and I shoved both the car and the truck out of the garage so that I could change the oil in both.

It wasn't a warm day (about 35 F), and I did the truck first. Being a Deisel, this takes quite a while.

By the time I got to the car, it was pretty cool. I cut my cardboard and shaped so that all spilled oil would run into the pan, and when I screwed off the filter, to my delight, the oil was thick enough that none spilled out!!!

So for about 3 months out of the year, I have a fix on this messy oil filter issue!!
 

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Drain old oil from top without getting dirty

Has anyone used a Topsider or similar syphon pump to extract oil through dipstick tube? - eliminates need for oil drain plug removal - recommended for BMW and Mercedes - works only if extractor tube inserted in dipstick tube can go unimpeded all the way to the lowest point in the oil sump, as it does in BMW and MB
I tried it and extracted 4 quarts - appears that this method removes most or all of the old oil - just make sure oil is only warm, not hot - otherwise, plasic hoses will melt.
 
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