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Discussion Starter #21
But you never see them at Daytona.
I think I am understanding what lies beneath your Daytona posts. We never see them at Daytona because it’s a glorified soccer mom suv designed for trips to the grocery store and such? And if we like speed handling and tech so much we should probably get a Porsche Cayenne. Am I close? Lol.
 

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Speed and Honda soccer mom Pilot don't belong in the same sentence. It's like Military Intelligence. There is just something wrong with the basic concept. :D

Speed is a 1972 Dodge Charger Rally with a stroked, bored and blueprinted 426 Hemi bolted to a Chance 5 speed transmission and sure grip rear end.

And yes to the hard core muscle car motörhead's, the 426 production ended in 1971, but then Dodge never put chance transmission in their vehicles either. It would however fit nicely under the hood of the 72 charger replacing a lower compression, reduced HP engines available in 1972.

It would also get you into trouble with the power and speed it could generate. The Pilot speedometer only goes up to 140 which was just cruising speed for my green speed machine.
 

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Speed and Honda soccer mom Pilot don't belong in the same sentence. It's like Military Intelligence. There is just something wrong with the basic concept. :D

Speed is a 1972 Dodge Charger Rally with a stroked, bored and blueprinted 426 Hemi bolted to a Chance 5 speed transmission and sure grip rear end.

And yes to the hard core muscle car motörhead's, the 426 production ended in 1971, but then Dodge never put chance transmission in their vehicles either. It would however fit nicely under the hood of the 72 charger replacing a lower compression, reduced HP engines available in 1972.

It would also get you into trouble with the power and speed it could generate. The Pilot speedometer only goes up to 140 which was just cruising speed for my green speed machine.
I'm not buying it.
A lot of things (including tires) are tweaked on a vehicle in the name of fuel efficiency. Auto makers have figured out that by lightening up your tires you can gain some milage. These so called touring tires will get you killed if you inflate to 32psi in a loaded Pilot. They don't corner well and even rolling over on the sidewalls. They dont respond well in an emergency, like if a dog were to run out in front of you, or heaven forbid a child. Now with High Performance tires, my Pilot drives great at 75mph. I'm now passing instead of being passed. And I'm not having to let off the gas to corner at any speed. I don't think I'm at Daytona, but I know I'm safer on this tire than I was.
 

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I'm not buying it.
A lot of things (including tires) are tweaked on a vehicle in the name of fuel efficiency. Auto makers have figured out that by lightening up your tires you can gain some milage. These so called touring tires will get you killed if you inflate to 32psi in a loaded Pilot. They don't corner well and even rolling over on the sidewalls. They dont respond well in an emergency, like if a dog were to run out in front of you, or heaven forbid a child. Now with High Performance tires, my Pilot drives great at 75mph. I'm now passing instead of being passed. And I'm not having to let off the gas to corner at any speed. I don't think I'm at Daytona, but I know I'm safer on this tire than I was.
There was nothing fuel efficient about my Charger. or any late 60's early 70's Mopar muscle machine. Arguably the 71 426 Cuda was one of the if not the fastest production vehicle of the time. With some work and performance parts it was hard to beat.

If I light footed it I was lucky to get 11 mpg. When I stepped on it went from mpg to gpm. The twin Carter carbs could guzzle gas like a freaking fish. I'm far to old to be driving something like my Charger these days, but I miss that thing and wished I had never sold it.
 

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I can’t hang with you guys on the tire discussion. I won’t claim knowledge on something I haven’t researched and aside from the fact that I know what works well for my driving style I am limited. My idea for adding some stability is something I always do to my cars. I’ll admit first hand that it is a bit shade tree mechanic of me, but it seems to work. I want to increase the wheelbase/contact patch etc. with a wider rim and tire. I see that the current rims are 8 in. and I can get aftermarket rims that are 9.5 in. Now, someone might say to me,”That’s not much” and I would agree. However, 1.5 in. a side translates to 3.0 in total. Again here, not much but every little bit helps. On my mazda, (it’s flush, I don’t to tilt or poke) the wider stance allows for enough stability in the turns and I don’t get hop from road imperfections because I haven’t tampered with the absorption properties of the original suspension that was adequately designed by engineers. And I don’t brag, but I very much enjoy curves and utilize the 5 speed as hard as I can without be wreckless/dangerous to myself or others. Do you guys think that I may get some added rigidity(and I don’t mean alot here) from kicking out and flushing up the rims/tires as I have done on other car models?
Pushing the wheels out a little further will always help with stability, but you need to watch your overall diameter and make sure you won't run into rubbing issues. The biggest detractors I can think of is additional moment on the wheel bearing and you will kick more crap up onto the side of your vehicle.

I used to do this to all of my cars and SUVs as well, the flush look is the cleanest way to go. But my modding priorities have shifted so my money spent on DDs is for maintenance purposes and my toy ('61 Impala) gets most of the fun money.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Pushing the wheels out a little further will always help with stability, but you need to watch your overall diameter and make sure you won't run into rubbing issues. The biggest detractors I can think of is additional moment on the wheel bearing and you will kick more crap up onto the side of your vehicle.

I used to do this to all of my cars and SUVs as well, the flush look is the cleanest way to go. But my modding priorities have shifted so my money spent on DDs is for maintenance purposes and my toy ('61 Impala) gets most of the fun money.
Thanks! I don't ever go out or up so much that I rub, or have to alter the vehicle too much. I did have to change lug studs once before with a freezer, c-clamp and a mallet. My girl almost used the lugs as ice cubes in her drink that day. Too many alterations is a slippery slope to go down and I'm getting too old and tired anymore. One thing leads to another, leads to another, leads to another. Before you know it, you don't even know what the heck happened. Thanks and have a great day!
 

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Thanks! I don't ever go out or up so much that I rub, or have to alter the vehicle too much. I did have to change lug studs once before with a freezer, c-clamp and a mallet. My girl almost used the lugs as ice cubes in her drink that day. Too many alterations is a slippery slope to go down and I'm getting too old and tired anymore. One thing leads to another, leads to another, leads to another. Before you know it, you don't even know what the heck happened. Thanks and have a great day!
I know some people hate them but I've typically used wheel adapters, the kind you bolt onto your hub that have their own lug nuts built in. A little thread locker on the inner ones gives me peace of mind that the lug nuts won't back off.

137537
 

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I know some people hate them but I've typically used wheel adapters, the kind you bolt onto your hub that have their own lug nuts built in. A little thread locker on the inner ones gives me peace of mind that the lug nuts won't back off.

View attachment 137537
Doesn't this sort of thing throw your alignment off? (So I've read)
 

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Doesn't this sort of thing throw your alignment off? (So I've read)
I never had an issue with getting aligned after installing these. Whatever degrees you are off these should not change that amount unless they are installed improperly or were manufactured "crooked".
 

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If you change the offset from the manufacture setup you change the scrub radius which changes handling in various ways depending on whether it is positive or negative.
 

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I know some people hate them but I've typically used wheel adapters, the kind you bolt onto your hub that have their own lug nuts built in. A little thread locker on the inner ones gives me peace of mind that the lug nuts won't back off.

View attachment 137537
The wheel spacers that do not use their own lugs are the ones that gave all wheels spacers a bad reputation as well as improper installation. I’ve used quality hub-centric wheel spacers and recheck the torque during tire rotations without issue. It’s important that the wheel spacers are installed correctly and to remove any OEM clips that are used during assembly.
D225BF56-C1C9-43C3-A199-64153EE260C8.jpeg
29882F16-8D3E-423D-A3D3-2D4A7080AF03.jpeg
 

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If you change the offset from the manufacture setup you change the scrub radius which changes handling in various ways depending on whether it is positive or negative.
I understand the science and reasoning behind discussing scrub radius... but in practice I've never felt any of the "negative impacts" on my vehicles, even those that I did this install for performance reasons. It's good to research and keep in mind but it's been a nonissue for me.

The wheel spacers that do not use their own lugs are the ones that gave all wheels spacers a bad reputation as well as improper installation. I’ve used quality hub-centric wheel spacers and recheck the torque during tire rotations without issue. It’s important that the wheel spacers are installed correctly and to remove any OEM clips that are used during assembly. View attachment 137539 View attachment 137540
I agree the "spacers" were much more dangerous than the "adapters". You did bring up something very important, "HUB CENTRIC" is critical for use on vehicles that rely on a hub centric wheel rather than lug centric.
 
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Hi all, Two weeks ago I purchased a 2017 ex-l with 50,000 on it. My first suv, as I usually own/drive five speed four bangers. I would say that it seems adequately powered but could use just a few more horses. My question is that when driving I would say that between 40-65 isn’t that eventful. However, 70 and over it’s a rocket. Do you guys drive these that fast? It doesn’t seem happy unless it’s rolling like it’s on fire. It’s a lot of weight and since I’m used to small cars it feels unnatural to drive that fast considering the size/weight/rollover possibility. This especially considering the mechanical setup of the all wheel drive. A lot of metal spinning. Even the shifts are super clean under a heavier load. Thoughts?
I have a 2005 and I fly 80 on the freeway with no issues. May not be safe but I have a lead foot. Not sure how the new ones run but mine is very powerful for a V6.
 

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I bought my 2005 Pilot EX-L new and have 218,000 miles on it. We've done quite of few drives across north America, including Canada and Colorado mountains.

We live in Florida and usually drive just below 80 in Florida. But in western states with higher speed limits we've done 90 for hours on limited access roads. This V6 is sweet and the suspension is up to the task.
With all this high speed driving we've never used an ounce of oil. Absolutely no engine or transmission issues either. We have run a good set of Michelen tires from new (I had them installed when new), and I check tire air regularly. Note this vehicle can be pushed on winding roads, the handling is good.

My other vehicles are an Acura Legend Coupe and Z06 Corvette.
Drive on.
 

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Hi all, Two weeks ago I purchased a 2017 ex-l with 50,000 on it. My first suv, as I usually own/drive five speed four bangers. I would say that it seems adequately powered but could use just a few more horses. My question is that when driving I would say that between 40-65 isn’t that eventful. However, 70 and over it’s a rocket. Do you guys drive these that fast? It doesn’t seem happy unless it’s rolling like it’s on fire. It’s a lot of weight and since I’m used to small cars it feels unnatural to drive that fast considering the size/weight/rollover possibility. This especially considering the mechanical setup of the all wheel drive. A lot of metal spinning. Even the shifts are super clean under a heavier load. Thoughts?
Are you running it in Econ mode? Could be a factor. My '17 EX-L runs like a bat out of hell and couldn't be happier
 

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Hi all, Two weeks ago I purchased a 2017 ex-l with 50,000 on it. My first suv, as I usually own/drive five speed four bangers. I would say that it seems adequately powered but could use just a few more horses. My question is that when driving I would say that between 40-65 isn’t that eventful. However, 70 and over it’s a rocket. Do you guys drive these that fast? It doesn’t seem happy unless it’s rolling like it’s on fire. It’s a lot of weight and since I’m used to small cars it feels unnatural to drive that fast considering the size/weight/rollover possibility. This especially considering the mechanical setup of the all wheel drive. A lot of metal spinning. Even the shifts are super clean under a heavier load. Thoughts?
Yes, of course we drive SUVs on interstate at interstate (sometimes a bit more) speeds. The Honda Pilot handles this speed just fine. However, it's a different vehicle than your sedans so it does have different attributes and handles differently. Only you can evaluate whether a SUV and the Honda Pilot particularly is a fit for your needs.

It's exactly as you've stated. The engine seems to be governed to improve fuel economy. For that reason my econ button stays off.
The Econ button is no magic button. It just prevents one to accelerate too aggressively. You easily can have the same driving experience and efficiency by not being lead footed. There isn't any difference with the Econ button on or off at highway and interstate speeds.
 
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