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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m adding a aftermarket touch screen in my 03 Pilot EX-L I was told I’ll lose the sub and tweeters and the steering wheel controls, how do I keep the factory sub with radio? I need help TIA
 

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I recommend not even bothering with the factory sub. You will need an amplifier to power it as the factory head unit is what is handling it. You’ll also need a crossover to only allow lower frequencies to pass through (either passive crossover or active via a DSP). Long story short it’s a good amount of money involved that you might as well buy something else as the factory one is garbage.

If space is limited you can build something small or go under seat. Both will be better than the factory sub. I built something with quick disconnect power and connectors so I can remove it when space was needed.

As for the steering wheel controls, depends on the head unit. You may need an adapter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I recommend not even bothering with the factory sub. You will need an amplifier to power it as the factory head unit is what is handling it. You’ll also need a crossover to only allow lower frequencies to pass through (either passive crossover or active via a DSP). Long story short it’s a good amount of money involved that you might as well buy something else as the factory one is garbage.

If space is limited you can build something small or go under seat. Both will be better than the factory sub. I built something with quick disconnect power and connectors so I can remove it when space was needed.

As for the steering wheel controls, depends on the head unit. You may need an adapter.
Would it should good with out it? I’m not sure what to do
 

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If you’re adding aftermarket speakers, chances are you’re going to have little low end. Most factory mids will dig a little deeper than aftermarket speakers. I think the consensus is that those lower frequencies are going to come from the subwoofer if you’re buying speakers.

A simple underseat sub may suffice for you. I went all out building custom tweeter pods, running raw drivers, built adapters for the front speakers. Running two amps, one for the front speakers and one for the subwoofer.

The factory head unit acted as an amp for the subwoofer. Aftermarket head units don’t do that for subwoofers. They have preouts that will send the signal to an amplifier that will push things harder. They’ll usually have an internal amp for the door speakers but if you want something to sound better you generally need an external amplifier. Most headunits will have preouts for the left/right/front/rear channels as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you’re adding aftermarket speakers, chances are you’re going to have little low end. Most factory mids will dig a little deeper than aftermarket speakers. I think the consensus is that those lower frequencies are going to come from the subwoofer if you’re buying speakers.

A simple underseat sub may suffice for you. I went all out building custom tweeter pods, running raw drivers, built adapters for the front speakers. Running two amps, one for the front speakers and one for the subwoofer.

The factory head unit acted as an amp for the subwoofer. Aftermarket head units don’t do that for subwoofers. They have preouts that will send the signal to an amplifier that will push things harder. They’ll usually have an internal amp for the door speakers but if you want something to sound better you generally need an external amplifier. Most headunits will have preouts for the left/right/front/rear channels as well.
I’m limited on money right now, does the tweeters go away too or they stay?
 

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The tweeters are wired parallel to front door speakers, so if you just hook up the new head to factory speakers, your tweeters will work fine.

Far as factory sub goes: if you want a budget solution, you can get a small cheap compact amplifier to power it. Something like
Mount it somewhere in your dashboard so you an access the control knob. The output terminals can hook to the wires going to the factory sub. They will be on a separate audio unit connector.
Your new head unit should have preamp RCA outputs for the sub, so you will need a cable like this:
Powering this amp: you can splice the power off your accessory outlet. (The "cigarette lighter" socket) Depending on what else you use it for. If you just plug in a USB phone charger, you are OK. But if you routinely use a 120V inverter, you may need to look for other options.

Steering wheel controls: best to check Crutchfield. If you select your car model, and find the head unit model you are installing, their website should tell you what steering wheel adapters will work.
You can also go here: https://www.idatalinkmaestro.com/en/products/maestro-sw and see if Maestro SW will support your new head unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The tweeters are wired parallel to front door speakers, so if you just hook up the new head to factory speakers, your tweeters will work fine.

Far as factory sub goes: if you want a budget solution, you can get a small cheap compact amplifier to power it. Something like
Mount it somewhere in your dashboard so you an access the control knob. The output terminals can hook to the wires going to the factory sub. They will be on a separate audio unit connector.
Your new head unit should have preamp RCA outputs for the sub, so you will need a cable like this:
Powering this amp: you can splice the power off your accessory outlet. (The "cigarette lighter" socket) Depending on what else you use it for. If you just plug in a USB phone charger, you are OK. But if you routinely use a 120V inverter, you may need to look for other options.

Steering wheel controls: best to check Crutchfield. If you select your car model, and find the head unit model you are installing, their website should tell you what steering wheel adapters will work.
You can also go here: https://www.idatalinkmaestro.com/en/products/maestro-sw and see if Maestro SW will support your new head unit.
THANK YOU SO MUCH, I will look into this
 

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Honestly the tweeters in this car hardly do anything…unplug your mids and play something so it’s just the tweeters. Even at high volume you will hardly hear anything. But like mentioned before they’re wired in parallel.

The best option is run components and upgraded tweets. Or you could run coaxials and just disconnect the tweeters in the dash.

I would be careful with running that amp. The factory sub is rated at 50w 2ohm. That amp doesn’t say if it’s stable at 2ohms. That amp also is rated at 100w at 4 ohm. At an even lower impedance of 2ohms it may be capable of putting out a ton more power than the sub can handle. If you’re running that sub amp, try to see if there is at bare minimum some kind of frequency crossover for the subwoofer preout on the head unit. Keep in mind subs need to be tuned properly, sending frequencies they’re not designed for can damage them. If you go that route start off low and listen for any distortion.
 

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Parameters for the amp state:
  • Maximum Power: 100W @4 ohm
  • Chip: TPA3116D2 + NE5532
  • SNR ≥98dB
  • THD ≤0.04%
  • Terminating Impedance: 2~8 ohm
  • Frequency Range: 20~200Hz
So it should be fine at 2 Ohm, and 100W @ 4 Ohm being peak, its RMS is going to be a lot lower. Still, the advice to start at minimum level and carefully work it up, is good.
Also in the description it states "not compatible with normal speakers" (just subwoofers) - cause it cuts off at 200Hz. Any sub should be able to handle up to 200Hz just fine, seeing how anything below 250 is considered 'Bass'. But depending on which head unit you are getting, you should be able to set the sub channel crossover in your sound settings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Parameters for the amp state:
  • Maximum Power: 100W @4 ohm
  • Chip: TPA3116D2 + NE5532
  • SNR ≥98dB
  • THD ≤0.04%
  • Terminating Impedance: 2~8 ohm
  • Frequency Range: 20~200Hz
So it should be fine at 2 Ohm, and 100W @ 4 Ohm being peak, its RMS is going to be a lot lower. Still, the advice to start at minimum level and carefully work it up, is good.
Also in the description it states "not compatible with normal speakers" (just subwoofers) - cause it cuts off at 200Hz. Any sub should be able to handle up to 200Hz just fine, seeing how anything below 250 is considered 'Bass'. But depending on which head unit you are getting, you should be able to set the sub channel crossover in your sound settings.
It’s from Amazon I have no idea what the name is lol, if I see it I’ll for sure post it
 

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Parameters for the amp state:
  • Maximum Power: 100W @4 ohm
  • Chip: TPA3116D2 + NE5532
  • SNR ≥98dB
  • THD ≤0.04%
  • Terminating Impedance: 2~8 ohm
  • Frequency Range: 20~200Hz
So it should be fine at 2 Ohm, and 100W @ 4 Ohm being peak, its RMS is going to be a lot lower. Still, the advice to start at minimum level and carefully work it up, is good.
Also in the description it states "not compatible with normal speakers" (just subwoofers) - cause it cuts off at 200Hz. Any sub should be able to handle up to 200Hz just fine, seeing how anything below 250 is considered 'Bass'. But depending on which head unit you are getting, you should be able to set the sub channel crossover in your sound settings.
Missed that in the description! Looks like a good option.
 
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