Honda Pilot - Honda Pilot Forums banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Greetings and Happy Holidays Members,
I recently had an additional Kenwood Excelon sub and amp added to my 2011 EX-L with RES. Problem is the factory sub is still on and sounds worse now that i have control over low frequency range and it plays closer to full range. I would like to disconnect only the factory sub so I can enjoy my additional investment located in my rear storage area next to the jack. Hard to find the JL Stealth box as it has been discontinued, so I went with a shallow 10 in sealed Kenwood box that fits well. I appreciate any suggestions as to eliminating the sub without tearing out the panels to reach factory plug in at sub. I'm sure the Best Buy installer used a line level input to get signal, so cutting the wire at factory amp may cause a different problem? Any how...I'm at a loss as to how to isolate just the factory sub. Thanks for the help and read this forum most weeks seeking insight and help from others.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
418 Posts
Do you have the premium audio system with an external amp or HU powers the speakers directly? Pretty sure RES setups got the external amp.
Your new amp - is it JUST for the new sub, or it powers all speakers?

It might be a good idea to go have a chat with the installer to find out what exactly they did.

Many cheaper aftermarket (and a lot of factory) head units do NOT feature a dedicated sub channel, and have only 4 channel outputs - fronts and rears. To add a sub to such units typically requires a dedicated crossover that will divert lows (typically from the rears) to the sub amp.

Pilot factory head has its own output channel for the sub, meaning it already has an internal crossover that sends lows to the sub and cuts the lows from other speakers. If you try to add a sub amp to it in the manner described above, most of the lows will never reach your new amp. You will still have your factory sub doing the lows, and it will be actually your NEW sub sounding like crap. So if the installer simply spliced the new amp to your front channels, you should go and tell them to do it right or your money back.

The proper way to handle things would be to cut the sub output from head and send it to the amp inputs. If this is a premium system, this would be the preamp, if non-premium, it would be speaker level.

One possibility is they went the lazy route: Opened up the panel where factory sub is, spliced wires going to the sub and ran them to the new sub amp. In which case yeah, cutting sub output at head unit would mute both subs. You will need to go in and disconnect directly at factory sub.

So to recap:
If they spliced the new amp off the regular channels, that is bad and should be redone. Unless they also somehow managed to set the factory unit crossover to send everything to regular speakers. Likely not the case if you still hear your old sub.
If they spliced the new amp off the speaker level sub wires, your best bet is to open up the rear panel and disconnect the factory sub itself.
If you got premium audio and they spliced off your preamp sub outputs between head and factory amp, you could try snipping bub wires close to that amp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
I have a very easy thing to try.. On the new sub, Flip the polarity of the wires going to the box. if it sounds like crap, the speakers are out of phase. I ran into this when I added an aftermarket sub in my Santa fe with factory sub.
I havent added an amp to my wife's Pilot, cause she said it was ok... lol
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top