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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello
I have a 2012 EXL with navigation. I am in the process of upgrading the audio system and and I’m in need of some help. I have searched all over these forums and the web looking for a wiring diagram of the factory amp. I have seen the wiring diagram for the 10 speaker pilot but mine is 7 speakers and the pins don’t line up. My goal is to try to tap into the speaker input harness and bypass the factory amp. I will then either tap into the output harness of the factory amp or run new wires from the speakers to a 4 channel amp. My goal is to leave the factory amp in place. Any help with diagrams would be helpful.
141639
141640
 

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See this post of mine, it has description of the wires.
 

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A more complete one...
STEREO AMPLIFIER CONNECTOR A (24P)

Fig. 42: Identifying Stereo Amplifier Connector A (24P) Terminals
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

STEREO AMPLIFIER CONNECTOR A (24P)
Cavity​
Wire Color​
Terminal Name​
Description​
A1​
BLK​
GND MAIN​
Ground for stereo amplifier (G402)​
A6​
BLU​
RR SP-​
Outputs sound signal for right rear door speaker​
A7​
RED​
RR SP+​
Outputs sound signal for right rear door speaker​
A8(1)
BLK​
RR SR SP-​
Outputs sound signal for right satellite speaker​
A9(1)
RED​
RR SR SP+​
Outputs sound signal for right satellite speaker​
A10(1)
BLU​
RL SR SP+​
Outputs sound signal for left satellite speaker​
A11(1)
GRY​
RL SR SP-​
Outputs sound signal for left satellite speaker​
A12​
PUR​
+B MAIN​
Continuous power source​
A13​
BLK​
GND SUB​
Ground for stereo amplifier (G402)​
A14​
RED​
SUBW-​
Outputs sound signal for subwoofer​
A15​
WHT​
SUBW+​
Outputs sound signal for subwoofer​
A16(1)
PNK​
CTR SP-​
Outputs sound signal for front center speaker​
A17(1)
BLK​
CTR SP+​
Outputs sound signal for front center speaker​
A18​
BLU​
FL SP+​
Outputs sound signal for left front speaker(s)​
A19​
RED​
FL SP-​
Outputs sound signal for left front speaker(s)​
A20​
RED​
FR SP+​
Outputs sound signal for right front speaker(s)​
A21​
BRN​
FR SP-​
Outputs sound signal for right front speaker(s)​
A22​
BLU​
RL SP-​
Outputs sound signal for left rear door speaker​
A23​
RED​
RL SP+​
Outputs sound signal for left rear door speaker​
A24​
PUR​
+B SUB​
Continuous power source​
(1)With rear entertainment

STEREO AMPLIFIER CONNECTOR B (28P)

Fig. 43: Identifying Stereo Amplifier Connector B (28P) Terminals
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

STEREO AMPLIFIER CONNECTOR B (28P)
Cavity​
Wire Color​
Terminal Name​
Description​
B1​
BRN​
RS485-​
Communication signal to audio-navigation unit​
B2​
YEL​
SWD+B​
Inputs signal for stereo amplifier switching ON/OFF​
B3(1)
BLU​
CTR PRE+​
Inputs sound signal for center speaker(s)​
B4​
RED​
SUBW PRE+​
Inputs sound signal for subwoofer​
B5​
GRN​
FL PRE+​
Inputs sound signal for left front speaker(s) and left rear speaker (s)(2)
B6​
BLU​
FR PRE+​
Inputs sound signal for right front speaker(s) and right rear speaker(s)(2)
B7(1)
LT BLU​
RL PRE IN+​
Inputs sound signal for left rear speaker(s)​
B8(1)
BRN​
RR PRE IN+​
Inputs sound signal for right rear speaker(s)​
B10​
BRN​
RG GND​
Ground for voice guidance and Voice Recognition (VR) prompts​
B11​
WHT​
ANC F-​
Inputs noise cancelling signal from active noise cancellation unit​
B12​
GRN​
ANC R-​
Inputs noise cancelling signal from active noise cancellation unit​
B13(1)
BRN/WHT​
FR TWR-​
Outputs sound signal for right front tweeter​
B14(1)
RED/WHT​
FR TWR+​
Outputs sound signal for right front tweeter​
B15​
YEL​
RS485+​
Communication signal to audio-navigation unit​
B17(1)
PNK​
CTR PRE IN-​
Inputs sound signal for center speaker(s)​
B18​
LT BLU​
SW PRE IN-​
Inputs sound signal for subwoofer​
B19​
RED​
FL PRE IN-​
Inputs sound signal for left front speaker(s) and left rear speaker (s)(2)
B20​
PNK​
FR PRE IN-​
Inputs sound signal for right front speaker(s) and right rear speaker(s)(2)
B21(1)
PNK​
RL PRE IN-​
Inputs sound signal for left rear speaker(s)​
B22(1)
YEL​
RR PRE IN-​
Inputs sound signal for right rear speaker(s)​
B23​
YEL​
RGL+​
Front audio signal of voice guidance and Voice Recognition (VR) prompts​
B25​
RED​
ANC FR+​
Inputs noise cancelling signal from active noise cancellation unit​
B26​
BLK​
ANC RR+​
Inputs noise cancelling signal from active noise cancellation unit​
B27(1)
WHT/YEL​
FL TWR+​
Outputs sound signal for left front tweeter​
B28(1)
BRN/BLK​
FL TWR-​
Outputs sound signal for left front tweeter​
(1)With rear entertainment
(2)Without rear entertainment
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Scorpio
I had seen the post that you linked to but a few of the pins did not match my connectors. The list that you included here has exactly what I needed! Thank you so much for the quick reply!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have a couple questions regarding adding a 4 channel amp to this setup.
The 28p connector has speaker inputs coming in combined for the left and right side, they are on the same pins (B5/B19 and B6/B20). Going out of the amp they are split to separate pins. My plan was to tap into the input harness to go to my amp but now I'm thinking the fade and balance control would not work correctly because this was handled by the factory amp, correct?
My second question is my 28p connector does not have pin B4/B18 for the subwoofer inputs. If I wanted to replace the sub later how would that work without any preamp inputs?
Thanks for any help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A more complete one...
STEREO AMPLIFIER CONNECTOR A (24P)

Fig. 42: Identifying Stereo Amplifier Connector A (24P) Terminals
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

STEREO AMPLIFIER CONNECTOR A (24P)
Cavity​
Wire Color​
Terminal Name​
Description​
A1​
BLK​
GND MAIN​
Ground for stereo amplifier (G402)​
A6​
BLU​
RR SP-​
Outputs sound signal for right rear door speaker​
A7​
RED​
RR SP+​
Outputs sound signal for right rear door speaker​
A8(1)
BLK​
RR SR SP-​
Outputs sound signal for right satellite speaker​
A9(1)
RED​
RR SR SP+​
Outputs sound signal for right satellite speaker​
A10(1)
BLU​
RL SR SP+​
Outputs sound signal for left satellite speaker​
A11(1)
GRY​
RL SR SP-​
Outputs sound signal for left satellite speaker​
A12​
PUR​
+B MAIN​
Continuous power source​
A13​
BLK​
GND SUB​
Ground for stereo amplifier (G402)​
A14​
RED​
SUBW-​
Outputs sound signal for subwoofer​
A15​
WHT​
SUBW+​
Outputs sound signal for subwoofer​
A16(1)
PNK​
CTR SP-​
Outputs sound signal for front center speaker​
A17(1)
BLK​
CTR SP+​
Outputs sound signal for front center speaker​
A18​
BLU​
FL SP+​
Outputs sound signal for left front speaker(s)​
A19​
RED​
FL SP-​
Outputs sound signal for left front speaker(s)​
A20​
RED​
FR SP+​
Outputs sound signal for right front speaker(s)​
A21​
BRN​
FR SP-​
Outputs sound signal for right front speaker(s)​
A22​
BLU​
RL SP-​
Outputs sound signal for left rear door speaker​
A23​
RED​
RL SP+​
Outputs sound signal for left rear door speaker​
A24​
PUR​
+B SUB​
Continuous power source​
(1)With rear entertainment

STEREO AMPLIFIER CONNECTOR B (28P)

Fig. 43: Identifying Stereo Amplifier Connector B (28P) Terminals
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

STEREO AMPLIFIER CONNECTOR B (28P)
Cavity​
Wire Color​
Terminal Name​
Description​
B1​
BRN​
RS485-​
Communication signal to audio-navigation unit​
B2​
YEL​
SWD+B​
Inputs signal for stereo amplifier switching ON/OFF​
B3(1)
BLU​
CTR PRE+​
Inputs sound signal for center speaker(s)​
B4​
RED​
SUBW PRE+​
Inputs sound signal for subwoofer​
B5​
GRN​
FL PRE+​
Inputs sound signal for left front speaker(s) and left rear speaker (s)(2)
B6​
BLU​
FR PRE+​
Inputs sound signal for right front speaker(s) and right rear speaker(s)(2)
B7(1)
LT BLU​
RL PRE IN+​
Inputs sound signal for left rear speaker(s)​
B8(1)
BRN​
RR PRE IN+​
Inputs sound signal for right rear speaker(s)​
B10​
BRN​
RG GND​
Ground for voice guidance and Voice Recognition (VR) prompts​
B11​
WHT​
ANC F-​
Inputs noise cancelling signal from active noise cancellation unit​
B12​
GRN​
ANC R-​
Inputs noise cancelling signal from active noise cancellation unit​
B13(1)
BRN/WHT​
FR TWR-​
Outputs sound signal for right front tweeter​
B14(1)
RED/WHT​
FR TWR+​
Outputs sound signal for right front tweeter​
B15​
YEL​
RS485+​
Communication signal to audio-navigation unit​
B17(1)
PNK​
CTR PRE IN-​
Inputs sound signal for center speaker(s)​
B18​
LT BLU​
SW PRE IN-​
Inputs sound signal for subwoofer​
B19​
RED​
FL PRE IN-​
Inputs sound signal for left front speaker(s) and left rear speaker (s)(2)
B20​
PNK​
FR PRE IN-​
Inputs sound signal for right front speaker(s) and right rear speaker(s)(2)
B21(1)
PNK​
RL PRE IN-​
Inputs sound signal for left rear speaker(s)​
B22(1)
YEL​
RR PRE IN-​
Inputs sound signal for right rear speaker(s)​
B23​
YEL​
RGL+​
Front audio signal of voice guidance and Voice Recognition (VR) prompts​
B25​
RED​
ANC FR+​
Inputs noise cancelling signal from active noise cancellation unit​
B26​
BLK​
ANC RR+​
Inputs noise cancelling signal from active noise cancellation unit​
B27(1)
WHT/YEL​
FL TWR+​
Outputs sound signal for left front tweeter​
B28(1)
BRN/BLK​
FL TWR-​
Outputs sound signal for left front tweeter​
(1)With rear entertainment
(2)Without rear entertainment
I actually have a 5 channel amp that I was going to use and just not use the 5th channel for the sub yet. I did some thinking and here is what I came up with:

Amp Inputs:
Channel 1 - Left Front/Rear (B5/19)
Channel 2 - Left Front/Rear (B5/19)
Channel 3 - Right Front/Rear (B6/20)
Channel 4 - Right Front/Rear (B6/20)
Channel 5 - Left Front/Rear and Right Front/Rear (B5/19 and B6/20)

Amp Outputs:
Channel 1 - Left Front
Channel 2 - Left Rear
Channel 3 - Right Front
Channel 4 - Right Rear
Channel 5 - Sub (keep factory sub until I get a new one)

I would just disconnect both harnesses going into the factory amp. I have replaced all the door speakers with aftermarket.

With this setup my thinking is this:
I would loose fade and subwoofer control from the HU. The ANC would be deactivated and voice guidance would be gone until I incorporate a mini mixer to add it back in.
The amp I have has a remote bass control knob so I could still adjust the sub using that.

Is there anything I am missing in this setup that would make it sound weird or not work (besides keeping the factory sub)?
 

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Hmm, interesting. So non-RES system only sends a 'stereo' (2-channel) sound out to the amp, and handles sub level/fader in the amp...
Compared to RES audio system, you are missing these pins/wires:
Audio unit connector pinAmplifier connector pinColorDescription
A6B22YellowRight Rear -
A7B8BrownRight Rear -
A10B21PinkRight Left -
A11B7Lt.BlueRight Left +
D12B4RedSub+
D24B18Lt.BlueSub -
(Audio unit connector D is a 24pin right next to main 'A' 24 pin)

What you can try is check if you are actually getting any signal on those pins from the audio unit. Most likely not, but will not hurt to check.

I don't know what is your amp model, but typically, these amps will have a switch to select 2/4/5 channels. (My 5 channel RF amp has it) What you need to do is connect 5/19 to 'front left' and 6/20 to 'front right' on the amp, and set the amp on 2-channel mode. As long as you set gains and connect speakers to rear and sub terminals, the amp should deliver to them.

One other item to consider are those inputs on B10 and 23.- navigation voice prompts. Those are supposedly mixed in by the amp into your fronts. You might need to do something about those as well...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hmm, interesting. So non-RES system only sends a 'stereo' (2-channel) sound out to the amp, and handles sub level/fader in the amp...
Compared to RES audio system, you are missing these pins/wires:
Audio unit connector pinAmplifier connector pinColorDescription
A6B22YellowRight Rear -
A7B8BrownRight Rear -
A10B21PinkRight Left -
A11B7Lt.BlueRight Left +
D12B4RedSub+
D24B18Lt.BlueSub -
(Audio unit connector D is a 24pin right next to main 'A' 24 pin)

What you can try is check if you are actually getting any signal on those pins from the audio unit. Most likely not, but will not hurt to check.

I don't know what is your amp model, but typically, these amps will have a switch to select 2/4/5 channels. (My 5 channel RF amp has it) What you need to do is connect 5/19 to 'front left' and 6/20 to 'front right' on the amp, and set the amp on 2-channel mode. As long as you set gains and connect speakers to rear and sub terminals, the amp should deliver to them.

One other item to consider are those inputs on B10 and 23.- navigation voice prompts. Those are supposedly mixed in by the amp into your fronts. You might need to do something about those as well...
I will see about checking the pins on the audio unit. I'm not sure if I want to go through the trouble of pulling it out though.
The amp I have is a Soundstream Nano. It does not have 2/4/5 selector but you can bridge 1/3 and 2/4 together. So I would need to connect 5/19 to channel 1/3 and connect 6/20 to channel 2/4? I'm not sure I understand what you are saying about the speakers to the rear and sub terminals. Do I use all five channels for the output even though I bridged the inputs? Thank you again for your help!
141721
141723
 

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'Bridging' on an amp means connecting a single speaker across multiple amp channel outputs. This means you drive fewer speakers than channels, but can push more power to each individual speaker. See page 4 of the manual:

This does not really apply in your case. What you are talking about here is splitting incoming signal to multiple channels. You can definitely do that by making the connections the way you described. One thing I would be real careful about is the sub. Factory sub is rated only 50W, while this amp sub channel is 350W. Gotta be real careful with that gain knob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Scorpio
Thank
'Bridging' on an amp means connecting a single speaker across multiple amp channel outputs. This means you drive fewer speakers than channels, but can push more power to each individual speaker. See page 4 of the manual:

This does not really apply in your case. What you are talking about here is splitting incoming signal to multiple channels. You can definitely do that by making the connections the way you described. One thing I would be real careful about is the sub. Factory sub is rated only 50W, while this amp sub channel is 350W. Gotta be real careful with that gain knob.
I am going to wire the amp like I had said in my previous post but I will just leave the sub disconnected for now. A will probably upgrade but I'm not quite ready for that step.

I'm having a problem with the remote turn-on connection to the amp. I have everything hooked up but the amp keeps going into protect mode. I disconnected all speaker connections and just left the ground, power and remote plugged in. I still got the same protection fault. I assumed I had pinched a wire somewhere when I was putting things back together or I didn't have good connections. I decided to hook the amp up directly to the battery, with good wires, that were not run through the interior of the car. I ran a new remote wire to test as well. I still got the same fault which led me to believe it was not the wiring. I tested the remote turn on and I am not getting a constant 12v readout. It reads "12" for a second than drops to "0" than back to "12" and so on. I'm pretty sure it should be a constant, somewhere around 12v, correct? The wire I tapped into was the remote turn-on for the factory amp, B2. When I plugged the factory amp back in, everything worked as it should (i.e. music plays to the speakers with no issues). Is there a reason the remote going into the factory amp wouldn't be a good hook-up for the new external amp. Is there another place that I can grab the remote turn-on from? Maybe behind the HU? I had read that the antenna lead might work but I'm unsure if it stays on when a different source than the AM/FM radio is selected.

Thanks again for the help with this, I appreciate it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, I did some more research and ended up hooking the remote turn on wire from the amp to the cigarette light in the front. It turns on and off with the key. When the radio is off, the amp will still be on, but this is such a rare occurrence that I would have the car on without the radio so I'm not concerned by this.

I got everything wired up and tested the system but ran into another problem. To run the speaker wire inputs to the new external amp, I hooked into the pre-amp speaker inputs from the factory amp. I did not get any output with the two factory amp harnesses unplugged. I plugged in the harnesses and then the sound started working. The weird part is, I lost volume control. Apparently the HU sends everything through the factory amp to be processed, including the volume and fade. I was hoping to just bypass the factory amp but I'm now realizing that I might have to tap into the factory amp outputs in order for the volume control to be restored. Now the signals will pass through the factory amp to my external amp, which is not ideal. I'm thinking about installing a LC6i to zero out the signal from the factory amp before but it goes to the external amp. I will test out my connections without the LC6i to see if the volume works again.
 

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Your soundstream amp can take high (speaker level) inputs, so you should not really need an LC6i. Adding an extra device in the chain is rarely good for a signal. And I guess that's proprietary OEM gadgetry for you. So in a non-RES Nav system, head just sends a left/right stereo line signal and the amp handles all the processing? Weird. In the 'premium' 10 speaker, head actually has separate outputs for rears and sub to the amp.
Frankly, at this point I would just opt for a nice aftermarket head unit. Which is exactly what I did, if you look up my '2013 EX Audio Overhaul' thread on this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Your soundstream amp can take high (speaker level) inputs, so you should not really need an LC6i. Adding an extra device in the chain is rarely good for a signal. And I guess that's proprietary OEM gadgetry for you. So in a non-RES Nav system, head just sends a left/right stereo line signal and the amp handles all the processing? Weird. In the 'premium' 10 speaker, head actually has separate outputs for rears and sub to the amp.
Frankly, at this point I would just opt for a nice aftermarket head unit. Which is exactly what I did, if you look up my '2013 EX Audio Overhaul' thread on this forum.
I checked out your build and it looks pretty sweet! Unfortunately I'm not quite ready to make that big of a mod to the factory HU and trim.

I did get the volume working once I tapped the speaker outputs from the factory amp. The factory amp handles EVERYTHING from the HU. The stupid sound that beeps when you switch between menus is also amplified now. Has anyone been able to figure out to silence this or make it quieter? After I got the gains turned up to the correct level for my upgraded speakers the ANC got in the way. I was able to unplug both the front and back mics without too much issue. Now all is well with that but like so many before me their is little to no bass coming from the sub. I'm still considering tapping into the sub and bring it over to the Soundstream. I will just be really careful with the gain, like you had mentioned. More than likely I will end up adding a sub but nothing extreme.

I thought the point of a LC6i or similar was to zero the signal from the HU, or factory amp in my case, and send a clean signal to my amp? I would use low level RCAs if I went this route to feed the amp. Is this not correct? Since I need the factory amp in-line with my setup, I didn't think it was the best idea to just run the signal from amp to amp. I can control the high/low pass filters with my Soundstream, so is this accomplishing the same thing?
 

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It really depends on how this Soundsream amp handles its high level inputs. If it does it well, there is no need for LC6i (which purpose is primarily to feed speaker level signal to an amp that only takes line level). Something like LC6i might clean the signal up a bit to counter the noise/distortion introduced by the OEM amp. But Soundstream might have similar circuitry in its high level input stage as well. You could try getting and installing the LC6i, but I would not expect a lot of difference.
 
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