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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm about to pull the trigger on purchasing a VCM disabling device. I had a couple questions about disabling it before I go ahead with it tho.

1. Does it mess with anything in the car? I know the temperature gauge is a little lower, but are there any other changes that happen? Engine lights? Extra noise? Any computer errors?

2. Will it mess with my warranty? I have an extended warranty on my car, and I don't want to get it voided by the dealer, of course. I'm hoping this will never happen, but just in case someone else is driving the car and it has to be towed to the dealer for some reason, will they see that?

3. S-VCM or VCM Muzzler 2? The VCM muzzler 2 costs $20 more, but it should have something that the S-VCM doesn't have, right? Don't quote me on this but I think some people have said that their temp gauge automatically goes to 165.2 when they turn it on with S-VCM, and others have said that their VCM muzzler 2 tells the temperature normally until it gets to 165.2. Is this correct or is it just my imagination?

4. Is it easy to disable? Every once in a while I'm probably going to turn VCM back on for a bit to see if everything is working correctly.

Thank you.
 

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2016 EXL AWD Nav with sensing , 2008 Corolla SE
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I installed the SVCM a couple of weeks ago and all I can say is , I should have done it sooner. The car coasts down from 40mph smoother, there is no hesitation when accelerating and the tach needle is steady when cruising. The temp gauge functions normally during warm up and steadies out a little lower than it did before. There is a slight reduction in fuel mileage based on the readout on the dash but I haven't calculated the actual mileage yet. No other I'll effects yet. You wire the SVCM with a switch if you want to disable it conveniently or you can just pop the hood and remove the inline fuse on the power supply to the device. Easy install too.
 

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My experience is so far on a 2017 EX-L 6-speed is the necessity out weighs any risks. My VCM must remain off or the vehicle will begin to have torque converter clutch lock issues.
I have gotten a CEL directly related to the device because I disconnected it and reconnected it when the engine was hot. I cleared the code with my scanner. It would have likely cleared on its own. If you want to avoid a CEL, simply wait until the engine is cool to connect. This is noted in the instructions. It's not the end of the world if the light comes on. I knew why.

No idea if it affects your warranty. I've not read that anyone has been denied a warranty by Honda for using the device. I've read where a Piloteer had the device installed and the Honda techs saw it and was not negative about them having it. I don't believe a straight answer is likely to come on the warranty question because warranty is already subject to owner neglect. If you were told by Honda it will not affect your warranty and your engine overheated, you would expect them to fix it. You must understand that there is a slight risk using the device because your engine temp is defaulted. I sleep at night because I check my cooling fans and coolant levels from time to time.
Someone confirmed that temp default comes when engine reaches 165.2°F .
The device is not hard to install or disconnect. 2 clips at the temp sensor and a wire lead to the positive battery terminal.
 
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VCM Muzzler 2 is the version that uses plug in resistors. S-VCM and VCM Tuner 2 are the more advanced models that switch off if an overheat condition exists.
 

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My experience is so far on a 2017 EX-L 6-speed is the necessity out weighs any risks. My VCM must remain off or the vehicle will begin to have torque converter clutch lock issues.
I have gotten a CEL directly related to the device because I disconnected it and reconnected it when the engine was hot. I cleared the code with my scanner. It would have likely cleared on its own. If you want to avoid a CEL, simply wait until the engine is cool to connect. This is noted in the instructions. It's not the end of the world if the light comes on. I knew why.

No idea if it affects your warranty. I've not read that anyone has been denied a warranty by Honda for using the device. I've read where a Piloteer had the device installed and the Honda techs saw it and was not negative about them having it. I don't believe a straight answer is likely to come on the warranty question because warranty is already subject to owner neglect. If you were told by Honda it will not affect your warranty and your engine overheated, you would expect them to fix it. You must understand that there is a slight risk using the device because your engine temp is defaulted. I sleep at night because I check my cooling fans and coolant levels from time to time.
Someone confirmed that temp default comes when engine reaches 165.2°F .
The device is not hard to install or disconnect. 2 clips at the temp sensor and a wire lead to the positive battery terminal.
Hello again! I joined this forum a few months back when I purchased my pilot and we had some correspondence back and forth about the characteristics of the pilot and trans. I also have a 2017 w/6 speed trans. I told you I would let you know if I purchased a device to disable the vcm. I did last week, and installed it yesterday. It’s the vcm tuner 2 directly from their website. Good directions that I followed to the letter and didn’t throw any codes or anything. The only thing was on first startup after installation the gauges were shaking like hell. This has not repeated on any subsequent startups. So far, I only drove to work this morning. My evaluation thus far is all good. The engine temp needle is a bit off as it should be. I used a Zurich Zr-8 device to confirm engine temp between 160-165. Exactly at 163. For the first time the car feels normal and not laggy. My feeling is that the feedback from the engine bay is calmer, and that is the physical feeling of vibration and such that I’m referring to. No endless droning at speed either. I don’t often circumvent manufactured systems that were designed, installed and rigorously tested but I truly couldn’t take it anymore. It was either disable or sell the truck. But I like her, and I just got done treating the leather again. Almost back to supple as new! Have a great one!
 

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Nice. You have to remember why vcm was developed. For beating stricter and stricter emissions rules around the world. It was not for better performance, fuel economy or any other reason. Different manufacturers have different methods. Honda went the vcm route and even though engines don't work as good, they engineer the best they can to work the best it can but side effects are bad. But they pass the tests and can sell the cars. They can't tell you its ok to turn it off and cant provide a method as they would then. Not be compliant emissions wise.
 

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Hello again! I joined this forum a few months back when I purchased my pilot and we had some correspondence back and forth about the characteristics of the pilot and trans. I also have a 2017 w/6 speed trans. I told you I would let you know if I purchased a device to disable the vcm. I did last week, and installed it yesterday. It’s the vcm tuner 2 directly from their website. Good directions that I followed to the letter and didn’t throw any codes or anything. The only thing was on first startup after installation the gauges were shaking like hell. This has not repeated on any subsequent startups. So far, I only drove to work this morning. My evaluation thus far is all good. The engine temp needle is a bit off as it should be. I used a Zurich Zr-8 device to confirm engine temp between 160-165. Exactly at 163. For the first time the car feels normal and not laggy. My feeling is that the feedback from the engine bay is calmer, and that is the physical feeling of vibration and such that I’m referring to. No endless droning at speed either. I don’t often circumvent manufactured systems that were designed, installed and rigorously tested but I truly couldn’t take it anymore. It was either disable or sell the truck. But I like her, and I just got done treating the leather again. Almost back to supple as new! Have a great one!
I seem to remember a humming or buzzing sound in the dash after installing, but have not heard it again.
 

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Nice. You have to remember why vcm was developed. For beating stricter and stricter emissions rules around the world. It was not for better performance, fuel economy or any other reason. Different manufacturers have different methods. Honda went the vcm route and even though engines don't work as good, they engineer the best they can to work the best it can but side effects are bad. But they pass the tests and can sell the cars. They can't tell you its ok to turn it off and cant provide a method as they would then. Not be compliant emissions wise.
Yes that’s what they told me when I spoke to them. I wanted to see if there was a way to access the system and rewrite the code to render the system inactive. They said absolutely not for the compliance issue you mentioned. Also for false advertising. I was told that if they allowed people to access and change the system the secondary market will be flooded with non compliant vehicles not performing as advertised and sold. Made sense to me.
 

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Thanks. I will listen out for that. That is if I can hear it over the buzzing in my head. o_O
No buzzing in my case, just a better performing car. I did install the SVCM when the car was cold after sitting overnight. No other negative effects at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
You wire the SVCM with a switch if you want to disable it conveniently or you can just pop the hood and remove the inline fuse on the power supply to the device. Easy install too.
Can you explain the switch more please? I saw a video where someone installed an S-VCM and I don't think I saw a switch. Will I have to install a switch separately?


Edit: I just read on odyclub that you can disable S-VCM just by disconnecting it from the battery terminal. Is this the case with yours too?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
My experience is so far on a 2017 EX-L 6-speed is the necessity out weighs any risks. My VCM must remain off or the vehicle will begin to have torque converter clutch lock issues.
I have gotten a CEL directly related to the device because I disconnected it and reconnected it when the engine was hot. I cleared the code with my scanner. It would have likely cleared on its own. If you want to avoid a CEL, simply wait until the engine is cool to connect. This is noted in the instructions. It's not the end of the world if the light comes on. I knew why.

No idea if it affects your warranty. I've not read that anyone has been denied a warranty by Honda for using the device. I've read where a Piloteer had the device installed and the Honda techs saw it and was not negative about them having it. I don't believe a straight answer is likely to come on the warranty question because warranty is already subject to owner neglect. If you were told by Honda it will not affect your warranty and your engine overheated, you would expect them to fix it. You must understand that there is a slight risk using the device because your engine temp is defaulted. I sleep at night because I check my cooling fans and coolant levels from time to time.
Someone confirmed that temp default comes when engine reaches 165.2°F .
The device is not hard to install or disconnect. 2 clips at the temp sensor and a wire lead to the positive battery terminal.
If a check engine light does come on, can I go to AutoZone or something to get it cleared if it doesn't go away by itself? I'm going to disconnect the vcm disabler occasionally for that exact reason. I want to see if the engine is being cooled properly. Should I call my dealer and ask if it will mess with my warranty or is that not a good idea? Has anyone else gone to the dealer with a VCM disabling device?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
They have a custom version of SVCM also which has a power on/off switch. It seems like it's a box instead of a wire like the normal one has. I'd prefer having the wire because it's harder to see, but I'll still take the box one if it adds functionality for easy on/off. If you can just turn VCM back on by disconnecting the normal S-VCM, I'd rather get that.

Also, I read something about an idle relearn thing. What is that supposed to do? Will the VCM disabler do something to the car when it idles?
 

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They have a custom version of SVCM also which has a power on/off switch. It seems like it's a box instead of a wire like the normal one has. I'd prefer having the wire because it's harder to see, but I'll still take the box one if it adds functionality for easy on/off. If you can just turn VCM back on by disconnecting the normal S-VCM, I'd rather get that.

Also, I read something about an idle relearn thing. What is that supposed to do? Will the VCM disabler do something to the car when it idles?
I just got the vcm tuner 2 because it doesn’t need adjustment and has overheat protection. If a significant deviation from the normal operating temp is detected by the unit (the actual deviation temp is in the paperwork but I don’t have it with me) the unit basically drops out reenabling the vcm and displays the actual temp for what it is. Additionally, someone explained via a search on the subject that since there are inlet temp and outlet temp sensors if the outlet temp picks up the temp deviation it will throw a code. I have yet to drive and actively watch/trend the temp during a long drive due to my scanner being a bit older. The blue tooth scanners go right to an app on your phone for easy access but I don’t have one. I would have to drive with mine hooked up holding it while driving. Not the best option. The engine temp was great right before I crashed! Lol. There are also additional features to be accessed and used on the unit by tapping the extra wire (there are two-one blue one green) to the battery terminal a certain number of times. You can even disable the unit in place this way. I’m not advocating for any particular unit over another I’m just trying to provide as much info as I can to aid you in your search/decision as everyone here has done for me in the past. Have a good one!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I just got the vcm tuner 2 because it doesn’t need adjustment and has overheat protection. If a significant deviation from the normal operating temp is detected by the unit (the actual deviation temp is in the paperwork but I don’t have it with me) the unit basically drops out reenabling the vcm and displays the actual temp for what it is. Additionally, someone explained via a search on the subject that since there are inlet temp and outlet temp sensors if the outlet temp picks up the temp deviation it will throw a code. I have yet to drive and actively watch/trend the temp during a long drive due to my scanner being a bit older. The blue tooth scanners go right to an app on your phone for easy access but I don’t have one. I would have to drive with mine hooked up holding it while driving. Not the best option. The engine temp was great right before I crashed! Lol. There are also additional features to be accessed and used on the unit by tapping the extra wire (there are two-one blue one green) to the battery terminal a certain number of times. You can even disable the unit in place this way. I’m not advocating for any particular unit over another I’m just trying to provide as much info as I can to aid you in your search/decision as everyone here has done for me in the past. Have a good one!
Doesn't SVCM also have overheat protection too? I think if it detects 205 degrees then it goes back to reading the normal temperature. Is there something different with VCM tuner 2? Also what adjustments are there to be made?

Sorry for all the questions. I just don't want something to be messed up on something that costs $40k.
 

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Doesn't SVCM also have overheat protection too? I think if it detects 205 degrees then it goes back to reading the normal temperature. Is there something different with VCM tuner 2? Also what adjustments are there to be made?

Sorry for all the questions. I just don't want something to be messed up on something that costs $40k.
No problem, by all means ask all the questions that come up. That’s the whole purpose for all of this! My bad choice of words by using adjustments, there are no adjustments required but different ways you can receive feedback from it. It’s brand new to me as well, and as long as the vcm is disabled and I don’t fry my motor I’m good. The answers you need are with the paperwork, which I am not at the moment sorry. I will reply back with that info when I can. However, if you are like me and need it now, feel free to email them at their website with any and all questions. They were quick to respond to me. (y)
 

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From the installation guide that came with the S-VCM unit that I purchased and installed:

"The S-VCM controller intervenes when the engine is not overheated

If the engine overheats when you are driving, S-VCM will bypass itself to let true coolant temperature show on the drivers dashboard, so you can be alerted. The onboard computer will also get true signal readings from the coolant temperature sensor. You should pull over safely and stop the car if that occurs.

Once the S-VCM controller detects that engine coolant has cooled down to a safe temperature after you restart the car, it will resume deactivating VCM"

I purchased the standard model, which does have a fuse in the power supply wire. If you wish to shut down the S-VCM module, simply remove the fuse and the module will be bypassed, and the Honda VCM function will resume. I did not get the model with the remote switch, as it seemed too difficult to run a wire through the firewall into the driver's area. So far, the S-VCM controller seems to work without a problem, and the Pilot seems to drive smoother. Before, at 55 mph I would sometimes experience a rumbling vibration coming through the dashboard, that I assumed was VCM. This vibration no longer happens.
 

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According to the service manual, the radiator fan does not come on until the coolant temp reaches 208 degrees. That means with VCM Muzzler on, the fan will never come on. Is that right? I'm having some concerns about this.

When I turn the A/C on, the fans will come on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
From the installation guide that came with the S-VCM unit that I purchased and installed:

"The S-VCM controller intervenes when the engine is not overheated

If the engine overheats when you are driving, S-VCM will bypass itself to let true coolant temperature show on the drivers dashboard, so you can be alerted. The onboard computer will also get true signal readings from the coolant temperature sensor. You should pull over safely and stop the car if that occurs.

Once the S-VCM controller detects that engine coolant has cooled down to a safe temperature after you restart the car, it will resume deactivating VCM"

I purchased the standard model, which does have a fuse in the power supply wire. If you wish to shut down the S-VCM module, simply remove the fuse and the module will be bypassed, and the Honda VCM function will resume. I did not get the model with the remote switch, as it seemed too difficult to run a wire through the firewall into the driver's area. So far, the S-VCM controller seems to work without a problem, and the Pilot seems to drive smoother. Before, at 55 mph I would sometimes experience a rumbling vibration coming through the dashboard, that I assumed was VCM. This vibration no longer happens.
It's great that your problems are gone! What do you mean by fuse? Are you talking about that box looking thing on the SVCM, or did you plug in your SVCM to the fusebox?
 

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Can you explain the switch more please? I saw a video where someone installed an S-VCM and I don't think I saw a switch. Will I have to install a switch separately?


Edit: I just read on odyclub that you can disable S-VCM just by disconnecting it from the battery terminal. Is this the case with yours too?
You can put a switch in the power supply line to the battery and yes, you would have to install that yourself. I didn't bother with the switch because as you said, you can just disconnect the power line from the battery.
 
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