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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The front mount is a piece of cake. Just remove the top bracket of the radiator core (8 bolts) by un-bolting the plastic attached to it (9 bolts), unclipping the wiring harness from it. Then remove cooling fans. Easy Peasy. (I did not disconnect the radiator hose)
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To replace the rear mount appears to be a challenge. I would definitely want to get some advice or a service manual. 2017 EX-L 2 Wheel Drive.
Thanks for any help.
 

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The front mount is a piece of cake. Just remove the top bracket of the radiator core, then remove cooling fans. Easy Peasy.
To replace the rear mount appears to be a challenge. I would definitely want to get some advice or a service manuel. 2017 EX-L 2 Wheel Drive.
Thanks for any help.
Have you seen this post which links to the 2016 factory service information? Your 2017 will be the same. Although he said he didn't get all of it, hopefully you will find what you need.

2016 Service Information
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have you seen this post which links to the 2016 factory service information? Your 2017 will be the same. Although he said he didn't get all of it, hopefully you will find what you need.

2016 Service Information
Thanks a lot!
I found what I needed.
It's not going to be as difficult as I thought.
 

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It looks really easy on that PDF... I'm hoping it's not a huge PITA to wrestle out after you unbolt it or the bolts aren't overly difficult to access.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
It looks really easy on that PDF... I'm hoping it's not a huge PITA to wrestle out after you unbolt it or the bolts aren't overly difficult to access.
I will let y'all know. I've got the mount unbolted with the engine bracket just resting on it. I'm hoping to be able to just jack the engine up and slide the mount out from under it without removing the bracket. Otherwise it's another can of worms. This bracket is attached to the engine with 4 bolts and also has another bracket attached to it that supports the exhaust pipe. I'm stopping here tonight. New mounts will be in in a couple three days. If I pull the mount now, it will tie up one of my jacks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
AutoZone Duralast made in China Engine Mounts. $189.63 total for the 2. Lifetime waranty. I'm going for it.
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?? ¯\(ツ)
 

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Are you replacing all three of them, or only the two you show?

The two you show are Honda part numbers 50830-TZ5-A03 (Front ACM) and 50810-TZ5-A03 (Rear ACM). These sell for around $250.00 or so each on various Honda parts sites after a discount from the list price of around $330.00. Pretty expensive if OEM so if yours hold up then it's a good deal with the lifetime warranty. Are those the used ones sitting next to the box you show in the picture?

A third motor mount shown as "Engine side" is Honda part number 50820-TZ5-A02 selling for around $119.93 and listing for about $154.00. This one isn't ACM so that is why it is less expensive I am sure. Would the "engine side" mount need replacing if these two were torn or defective and excessive vibration was "sent" to the other non ACM mount? Have you inspected it to see if it is torn, cracked or ripped?

Interesting the the ACM active engine control mounts buffer vibrations when the engine VCM is active. The engine running on 3 cylinders creates vibrations which are dampened by these ACM mounts, but only when the VCM is active.

If you are using a VCM muzzler, would these ever become "active" since the VCM is inhibited from activating? If not, then they should last a lifetime.

Active Control Motor Mounts
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Are you replacing all three of them, or only the two you show?

The two you show are Honda part numbers 50830-TZ5-A03 (Front ACM) and 50810-TZ5-A03 (Rear ACM). These sell for around $250.00 or so each on various Honda parts sites after a discount from the list price of around $330.00. Pretty expensive if OEM so if yours hold up then it's a good deal with the lifetime warranty. Are those the used ones sitting next to the box you show in the picture?

A third motor mount shown as "Engine side" is Honda part number 50820-TZ5-A02 selling for around $119.93 and listing for about $154.00. This one isn't ACM so that is why it is less expensive I am sure. Would the "engine side" mount need replacing if these two were torn or defective and excessive vibration was "sent" to the other non ACM mount? Have you inspected it to see if it is torn, cracked or ripped?

Interesting the the ACM active engine control mounts buffer vibrations when the engine VCM is active. The engine running on 3 cylinders creates vibrations which are dampened by these ACM mounts, but only when the VCM is active.

If you are using a VCM muzzler, would these ever become "active" since the VCM is inhibited from activating? If not, then they should last a lifetime.

Active Control Motor Mounts
The ones in the picture are new from AutoZone. I have inspected the other 2 mounts and they are not torn or showing signs of separation. I took the top one (passenger side) apart to see. The one under the transmission looks ok. I will install the front and rear and see if my vibration and the big thud upon start up goes away. If not, I will look at replacing the others.
S-VCM is now installed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Well, i managed to get the old rear mount out with little difficulty and without removing the bracket attached to the engine. To get the mount out, let it down and slide along subframe (passenger side) until you get to the end of the steering rack. Raise it up and over and between the boot of the steering rack and the CV Axle. I worked it out past the oil filter and brake fluid line) because on the other side of the knuckle, the stabilizer bar link was in the way.
I went back in with the Made in China AutoZone Duralast replacement. Raised the engine ever so slightly and it fit into place. Put the 4 base plate bolts in. I let the engine down into the new mount. But here is the problem with aftermarket parts sometimes... The engine mounting bracket is setting flush on the mount, but the bolt hole in the mount is drilled low a millimeter or two. There is nothing I can do. The bracket is setting exactly where it's supposed to be. I'm not modifying this part to make it work. Looks like I'll be calling Honda Monday morning for OEM and returning both front and rear Chinese Duralast mounts to AutoZone. ?
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That's a lot of extra cash you have to put out to get the OEM ones! Looks like a good candidate for a die grinder to remove a bit of metal.

Anymore so many aftermarket parts are so poorly manufactured it may be worth the extra money for OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Surprised you need new mounts already

What is the mileage?
This vehicle was involved in an accident (front and rear).
I bought it at an auction and rebuilt it. The engine mounts for these vehicles are already problematic. The accident I'm sure finished them off.
See My Showcase.
 

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Well that sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·

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Yup. Just priced OEM. $530 shipped for the two.
?

This is where I miss the old style smileys, where the vomiting was animated and really drove the point home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
?

This is where I miss the old style smileys, where the vomiting was animated and really drove the point home.
You mean one like this?
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This vehicle was involved in an accident (front and rear).
I bought it at an auction and rebuilt it. The engine mounts for these vehicles are already problematic. The accident I'm sure finished them off.
Accident could explain the slight fitment issue. IMO it could be worth the effort to slightly alter the mounting hole on the Duralast mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just to update this thread.....
I'm happy to say that the install of new front and rear engine mounts has been successful. I finally got around to finishing the job with OEM. After a 5 mile drive, I'd like to report on what I thought was road noise or the lack of sound dampening has proved to be bad motor mounts. If you think you have excessive noise, you probably have bad engine mounts. Everything is nice and quiet.
 
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